| Author | Message | ||
     Pinkpank |
Sorry if these are noob questions, but I have little history/experience with the hardware on my 2000 M2 Cyclone. Other than a clutch/starter interlock switch and a voltage regulator going south, and the required leaking rocker cover gaskets, she's treated me well for 7 years and (a puny all-city) 5500 miles. Someone borrowed my Service Manual, so I can't look this stuff up - and some of it is more informational than straight-out "repair", anyway. 1) Gearshifts are hard - diagnosed this morning as a loose clutch cable, won't disengage 100% and hence makes shifting tough (especially without shifter peg, see #3). I didn't see any adjustment at the top or bottom of the cable, so there must be an adjustment in the middle? I never thought to look there - but the forums seem to point this out. (I'm not by the bike and was in a hurry this morning.) 2) If the original cable is stretching enough to need adjusting, should I line up a spare cable, cable assembly (?) and/or inspection plate gaskets? Or do these live well past some "stretch"? (Shortly after needing it's first "stretching adjustment", my Suzuki GS650 clutch cable snapped - should I prepare for a similar event here?) I ride pretty much exclusively in the city, so she rarely rolls more than a mile without having to shift a handful of times. 3) Today was one of those mornings, and for the first time in 7 years I (gently) laid her onto the left side on some slippery pavement. Broke the shifter peg clean off. Is that a threaded item? Anyone have the thread size/pitch? (The rest of the OEM linkage was not harmed!) I won't have a chance to see the bike until after 8pm, so I'd like to order this stuff overnight before then - if needed. So thanks in advance for any quick info! | ||
| Fasted |
get your manual back find the rubber gaiter on left side of motor in middle of cable. unlock nut, screw adjuster until lots of slack in cable. remove derby cover. remove clutch ramp spring and lockplate. turn screw adjuster couterclockwise until it lightly bottoms. then turn in 1/4 turn. replace lockplate and spring, if lockplate is not aligned, turn screw a little clockwise. squeeze lever completely 3 times to set ramp. replace cover. watch gasket, line up cover with all screws before tightening, don't strip screws when snuggin' em down. 7ft.lb. MAX for safety's sake. adjust cable to have a 1.5-2.0 mm gap at clutch lever perch when the cable conduit is pulled away. get your manual back | ||
| Pinkpank |
Got it - thanks! Still looking for that Manual, might have to bite the bullet and buy another. Argh. Noticed a lot of wear on the clutch lever fulcrum - the hole in the lever is about 3mm too large for the bolt diameter. That "play" doesn't help. Still can't tell if the shift peg is screwed in or not since it sheared off flush, but I fashioned a replacement from some aluminum until I can figure that out. I'll search the archives, but might as well ask here as well - what's a good discount OEM parts source for Buell? I've been using Uke's in Kenosha, WI, but some of the prices are astronomical. In the Porsche community we have certain dealers that discount deeply, like 30%-70%, and I wonder if there isn't something similar for Harley/Buell? Thanks! | ||
| Fasted |
what shift lever you got? the non-banana style is a common american size thread available at any hardware store. a 3" bolt that i THINK may be 1/4"x16 is the shaft.get black allen head if possible, and two nuts or 1 nylock nut for securing the bolt end. black fuel line and a little loctite completes the new peg. stick a spare on the bike somewhere.......priceless when needed on the road |
