| Author | Message | ||
     Adrian_8 |
I cleaned off my front rotor with a wire wheel and fine emery paper then installed the "New" type of Lyndall Gold pads that are now available thru American Sport Bike. I then rode the bike for about 20 miles, here was not any pulsating in the lever and I got very smooth stops all the way to 0 mph., not the grabbity, grab, grab I have been used to. These pads require a little more lever pressure but the stopping power is good..I would say get rid of the stock pads asap as they leave nasty deposits on the rotor which causes the pulsating lever and the grabby brakes...are you listening BMC? | ||
| Florida_lime |
I have the same "newer" Gold pads which I got when they first came out, but I still need to clean/emery paper my rotor way too often, or I get the pulsating again. I find myself finishing my braking with the rear brake, just to avoid the grab- grab feeling. I may try the EBC pads next time (which may be soon). | ||
| Tstone |
Anybody got a part number for the EBC's? | ||
| Florida_lime |
From http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9059.html 03-07 XB series Front Brake Pads* #9170 Ferodo Sintered, Cryo Processed - Add $48.95 #9060 Lyndall Gold+ Carbon Kevlar - Add $55.00 #9059HH EBC Sintered - Add $50.50 #9064 Braking CM55 - Add $48.90 | ||
| Tstone |
Thanks Florida | ||
| Florida_lime |
Tstone: That number looks like an American Sportbike only number. From the EBC website: FA345HH | ||
| Froggy |
I also have the Lyndal golds, they rock  Now that they got the ZTL2 version out, I think i found another winter project | ||
| Florida_lime |
The ZTL2 is what I'll consider if the EBC pads don't get me the feel I want. I've been looking at that set-up for quite some time, but feel is almost more important than outright power. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
Well...I thought I had the problem solved but Florida threw a wet blanket on my party...Damn! EBC are next on the list...or a new Ducati Multi.... | ||
| Florida_lime |
Adrian_8 , Most people seem to have good luck with the Lyndall Golds -- give it some time to see if it works for you. I'd really like to have the feel of my Hypermotard's monoblock brakes on the Uly.  | ||
| Dr_greg |
Just my $0.02, but Lyndall's warped my rotor; back to stock and no problems. I'm clearly in the minority. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My 08 feels like a warped rotor. You think it might be just dirty? | ||
| Froggy |
It is very hard, if not impossible to warp a rotor. The problem is that deposits get left on the rotor from the brake pads. Lyndal pads seem to resolve this issue in like 95% of the people that use it, and then you get weirdoes like Dr_Greg that get pulsing after putting them on | ||
| Adrian_8 |
I too "warped" rotor #2 with the Lyndall Gold Original Models...but no wonder, the way they said break them in..it was a torture test for any rotor...If you have a pulsating brake lever you can clean the rotor and most times it takes care of it...but you need some heavy scrubbing/sanding/ wire wheel to do it ..another tip: when you come to a hard stop with the front brake do not hold the front brake on at the stop as this could leave the deposits on the rotor..hold the bike with the rear brake. We should not have to do this stuff but the pulsating brakes requires desperate measures. | ||
| M2nc |
I have the Lyndal Gold pads. The feel is different and I like them. I find I can modulate brake response better with the Lyndal pads than the stock pads which come on too strong at first. The bike also does not want to stand up while trail braking because the initial bike of the stock pads is not there. That said, after several trips to the mountains, I have pulsating brakes again. With the stock pads, I had the rotor replaced at 19,000 miles under warranty when cleaning would have probably fixed the problem. At about 30,000 miles the bike started to pulsate again so I decided to go to the Lyndal pads. They quickly cleaned the rotor and the pulsating went away. On the way home today from the mountains I noticed the brakes were pulsating pretty bad again with the bike a few miles under 36,000 miles. I have to service the bike and will inspect the rotor for deposits or warping. | ||
| Rotorhead |
I had the brake pulse happen for the second time also. First was around 15,000 miles replaced front rotor under warranty. now that I'm at 43,000 miles it has done it again and I'm out of warranty. I took the rotor off to check for warping. I have a huge 24 x 40 Microflat stone that is within .010 flat. my rotor was flat as a pancake. It did show uneven wear from one side to the other 180 out but it was NOT warped. I sanded down both sides with wet dry paper and a palm sander. The rotor looks brand new and brakes like new. While I had it all apart I carefully extended the pistons and cleaned them. I noticed for the second time that only 4 of the 6 moved freely. I think I will rebuild the caliper when I put on the Lyndals I have on the way. Between the pads and high mileage and dirty pistons in the calipers, the problem has not been a warped rotor in my case but I don't drive it that hard. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
Rotorhead...Did you have trouble getting the rotor bolts out? Mine feel like they are in with Red Locktite...Did you re-use the bolts? I agree with you..I don't think in most cases it is a warped rotor that is causing the pulsating lever.. | ||
| Rotorhead |
The bolts were replaced at the 15,00 mark with the spacers. I was more worried over the spacers than the bolts so I reused everything. Yes, the bolts were a bitch to get out with blue locktite and with the heat had them in good. I did notice the centering springs had alot of wear on them and I think need some love soon. |
