| Author | Message | ||
     Shaiss |
(_#s refer to picture below_) So I changed my brake pads yesterday and found thatt the rear Carrier Assembly (14) is touching the rotor a bit causing a metal scraping sound. I noticed this before I changed the brakes and just figured it was worn brake pads metal on metal. So I took apart the carrier assembly (14) from the caliper (19) and found that the threading for the rear caliper pin bolt (21) on the caliper (19) looked threaded. The bolts (21) screwing in with a slight pull of the ratchet but you can tell its not going in straight. Whats a possible resolution besides a new caliper? I thought of timesirt, but then how do you know your inserting it at the exact angle? Also, If I need to further take things apart, if I undo the rear master cyclinder banjo bolt (28) will I then later have to bleed the rear brake? The bike is ridable as it has been scraping this way for months since my mechanic changed my pads. I know its not right and want to fix it. Thank you - Shai  | ||
| Sparky |
First, was it making the noise after the "mechanic" changed the pads? Man, the dealer should not have released the bike like that. Anyhow, are you saying that the (21) bolt is going in the caliper crooked? It's possible something is bent but I don't think the caliper, even if it were mounted crooked, would affect the carrier from touching the rotor. Why? Because the carrier is attached to the swingarm while the rotor is attached to the wheel and the thing that ties these two parts together is the axle, is it not? The caliper can be left off entirely and not affect the carrier from rubbing the rotor, right? So, where on the carrier is it leaving witness marks in reference to the diagram and about how large are the spots? Is the scraping noise constant or cyclic with wheel speed? If it's cyclic, that points to a bent rotor. Are there witness marks on the rotor as well? If so, how bad? Was the wear on the pads this time even from top to bottom or was there more wear on the top or bottom of the inside pad? If there is uneven wear, that could possibly point to a bent carrier or a crooked caliper. Are the (3) bolts straight or bent slightly? | ||
| Shaiss |
Not the bolt, I'm saying the threading for that bolt in the caliper is crossthreaded, therefore making the bolt go in crooked. Yes, you are right. Spots are not large, I'll mesure it tonight, but I would say 1 or 2mm As far as the scraping noise, its constant and I can only here it with the engine off rolling the bike back and forth, or on the stand moving the tire by hand. I'll try to take pictures tonight. Were was even, checked it with a micromeeter and it was off by .2 mm from one side to the other. Bolts are straight | ||
| Shaiss |
I had rolled the bike around in the morning, decided to take the cage to work. Came home and the calliper carier was no longer touching. There is a metal scraping sound, but its faint and I think its the brake pads. I know with car disk pads you lube the pad before putting them on. The service manual didnt say anything about it. Do you not use lube on moto brakes? | ||
| Sparky |
So, you're pretty sure the noise is from the pads then? What about the carrier? You say it is not touching now but it was before. What do you think happened to bring this about? I eyeballed the distance between the carrier and the rotor on my XB9R and it looks to be about slightly less than 1/8th inch. Is yours about the same? Regarding lube on pads, I have heard of using anti-seize sparingly on the guide pins but that's about it. | ||
| Shaiss |
.826 to be exact, measured it with that gauge tool used for spark plugs ;) I think once I put the bike down of the stand, put my 200+ lbs on it, rolled around, things straightned out. Just my guess though So yeah, theres enough room. pads are new, so I think thats the issue. I'll find out soon, battery died on me, so need to go pickup a new one. I'll post some updates here. | ||
| Sparky |
.826 millimeter? If so, that's not much clearance. Not knowing the history of the bike, I'd betcha the carrier is slightly bent. If you could post pics of the carrier/rotor area from the rear of the bike looking forward and of the wear on the brake pads, that would be most helpful. I'd like to see if there is any visible misalignment of the carrier wrt the axle. Perhaps I could take some pics of the carrier/rotor area of my bike to compare. | ||
| Shaiss |
I'll take them hopefully tongiht with my wifes SLR. But its .826 inches, lol not mm you said 1/8th so I was just keeping things even, lol. | ||
| Sparky |
I think you meant 0.0826 in.? That decimal point can kill ya. Do you know how many spacecraft missions have been lost because of decimal point errors amongst aerospace engineers? Neither do I, but if there is one, that is one too many, LOL. So, check it out. Here is what I've got as far as clearance between the carrier and rotor. The ruler is butting against the rotor and the clearance is a little more than 0.05 and less than 0.08 inch. About what yours is, wouldn't you say?  | ||
| Shaiss |
yup, looks the same. I'll check it with the depth gauge again when I get home. In this case my shuttle would have crashed  This is mine, I tried to match your angle. Camera stinks and couldnt find a ruler at work.    | ||
| Jlnance |
Did this get resolved? I have this issue. Here is what I know so far. I changed the brake pads and when I try to put the carrier back over the rotor, the part being measured in Sparky's first picture is hitting the rotor. I noticed that the brakes only have a piston on one side. Somehow, that part that is hitting the rotor self adjusts to compensate for the pad on the non-piston side wearing. Now I need it to adjust itself back to allow for the thickness of the new pads. Is it supposed to do this automatically, or is there some trick? (Message edited by jlnance on August 27, 2008) | ||
| Jlnance |
Ha  I have good friends. Sportymark came over and the brake is now working. Here is the deal for anyone else with this problem. The rear caliper has a piece which floats, and this is the piece which is hitting the rotor. It gets stuck and does not float back. Here is how to make it all work. 1 - Disassemble the caliper by removing the two black blots which go through the rubber bushings. 2 - With the caliper split in half, attached the fixed half to the swingarm 3 - Now put the brake pads around the rotor, and then put the floating part of the caliper on top of the brake pads. Make sure the pads clip into appropriate holders. 4 - Now replace the two bolts which hold the caliper halves together. One of these bolts is a threaded pin. Apply some grease to the pin. You're done. This is nothing like the directions given in the service manual. (Message edited by jlnance on August 27, 2008) |
