Author |
Message |
Kttemplar
| Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2008 - 09:43 am: |
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The same thing happened to me when I took out the screw on the left side. At first I thought it was gasoline, but it was not. It only happened the first time and I have taken the airbox cover off several times since than and not had any liquid come out of the screw hole again. Mike |
Usmoto
| Posted on Friday, August 22, 2008 - 10:38 pm: |
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Has anyone got details and pics on how to disconnect the solenoid? Got my R today and want to make that change. If I missed them in another post I apologize. |
Velocity
| Posted on Friday, August 22, 2008 - 11:03 pm: |
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hey guys going to do the noid deal tomorrow. Has anyone noticed the engine temps going down after the mod? Mine is staying around 200. Any ideas? Scott |
Madav8tr
| Posted on Friday, August 22, 2008 - 11:12 pm: |
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"Mine is staying around 200. Any ideas?" 200 isn't high. |
Velocity
| Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2008 - 10:27 pm: |
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Is 200 an average temp for most bikes? Scott |
Madav8tr
| Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2008 - 10:54 pm: |
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IMO and experience "average" temperature for most water cooled bikes is going to be somewhere between 180-210 depending on the driving environment. Higher temps in stop and go traffic and cooler temps running on the open road. I have owned 2 RC51's and the average for those bikes was in excess of 220. Hell, I have seen 245 on an RC several times. That said, high performance Vtwins tend to run a little warmer than their I4 brethren so a temperature of 200 isn't an issue. |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2008 - 11:58 pm: |
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200 is very common for summer riding on the 25r...maybe 10 degrees warmer in moderate city traffic and 10 degrees cooler at highway speeds with no obstructions in front of you (ie cagers). Seems like the bike is very sensitive to airflow and likes clean air. It can be a 10 degree difference in coolant temperature between clean and dirty air on the highway. |
Dtx
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 12:31 am: |
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Wow! The bike *feels* so much better without this solenoid hooked up. I like it a lot. It a way, I am kinda glad Buell was able to come up with a way to pass EPA tests...and then easily allow us to bypass it. |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 12:45 am: |
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Hell ya, it is a way better throttle without that dame solenoid...were your butterflies prevented from opening 100% by the solenoid? Seems like that it another common benefit by removal... |
Jpfive
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 09:03 am: |
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My rear AFV is running 104 since the solenoid elimination. Front is unchanged at 100, same as rear was before. No other changes. My guess is that the rear butterfly would close slightly in stock form, due to looseness of cable and spring...? Jack |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 10:02 am: |
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Since I disconnected mine(3-4 weeks?), I've only had it try to set once. It set a code but that has since dropped off. No codes AFV 94F/94.5R 5000 ft elev Running like a striped ape. Z |
Dtx
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 10:13 am: |
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Fresno, My butterflies have always opened properly on the throttle body. Or at least every time I checked it the range was 2% to 100%. |
Usmoto
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 04:01 pm: |
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Can someone post instructions on how to disconnect the solenoid? Got my 1125 two days ago and would like a little love below 4K RPM. Minus smooth big time. Thanks in advance. (Message edited by usmoto on August 24, 2008) |
Velocity
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 08:26 pm: |
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Hey, got a question, How do you get into the diagnostic mode? I tried several times turn on the ignition, and hold the mode and the toggle at the same time all I get is the temp display / brightness etc. Can someone school me, what am I doing wrong. I am trying to check 2% & 100% since I did the noid. Thanks, Scott |
Stewadi
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 08:29 pm: |
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1) Make sure bike is off 2) Hold down both Mode & Toggle Buttons 3) Turn bike on |
Eweaver
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 08:32 pm: |
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The off/run switch on the right switch housing has to be in the "run" position. |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 09:50 pm: |
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Listen close and you can hear each switch "make". Then turn the key quickly. In "run" the lights will be on, about a 6 Amp draw. In "park" it'll be less than an Amp draw on the battery. That's a great feature for testing a battery's "holding power". If the voltage drops too fast in "run" it's time for a new battery. Z |
Velocity
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 10:05 pm: |
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Hey thanks holding down both buttons then turning on the ing. was the trick. Scott |
Duggram
| Posted on Monday, August 25, 2008 - 10:31 am: |
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Usmoto, I searched this forum and google and came up with this: Thread where part number is given http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/373799.html?1215128346 Markel Engineering HowTo PDF http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=res&cd=1&url=htt p%3A%2F%2Fwww.markelengineering.com%2FMarkel_8B11N E_install_instructions_revised06162008.pdf&ei=S8Cy SODsHajeigGKi9X1Dg&usg=AFQjCNEn1KPG_OyFpAloesgMPVL uVoCb2g&sig2=fkJhXOA30aL_2exqxz5IVg |
Ponti1
| Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 07:01 am: |
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I read the Markel PDF yesterday, and didn't know a TPS reset was recommended after removal. Did all of you do that? I did not, and am hesitant to mess with it since my bike is running FANTASTIC at this point. What drives the need to TPS reset after removal of the solenoid? |
Jpfive
| Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 07:46 am: |
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The TPS reset is not mechanical, and is easily accomplished. Run switch on, ignition on, throttle full open for 3 sec, then full closed for three second, repeat twice (three time total) - Oh....engine off... Jack |
Ponti1
| Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 08:07 am: |
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Jack, I know how to do it, but am questioning the need for it. Thanks for offering up the procedural info though. The bike is running as close to perfectly as I have ever felt it run. So, I am wondering if the reset is truly needed. I was just looking for info as to why removing the solenoid would be cause for reset of TPS. |
Jpfive
| Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 08:22 am: |
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Anytime that the linkage is disturbed, it should be done. Before I took the dang noid off, I would have to do it periodically just to keep the throttle range at 2 - 100%, including just before my dyno run. I'm still not sure I was getting full throttle for that. I still do it anytime the air box is off for service - just in case anything has been disturbed. There's no down side. It's not going to mess up how your bike is running now, and is so simple to do - just like the spark plug cleaning procedure. Jack |
Velocity
| Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 08:24 am: |
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Ponti1, I was under the impression that it only went to 80% at wot from BMC. So you have to reset to 100%. But some people have indicated theres was fine. I checked mine and it needed to be reset. Check yours without the 3 wot's and see where you are, If you dont need to than your good to go. Scott |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 04:06 pm: |
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I believe that the TPS percentage and the mechanical action of the butterflies opening (or being held back some by the 'noid) are separate processes? Meaning just because your TPS says 100% doesn't mean the butterflies are opening 100% at WOT...Just an assumption, someone please correct me if I am wrong in that. |
Velocity
| Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 05:09 pm: |
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They are separate, once you deal with the noid then you want to make sure the TPS is up to speed. If you dont do the noid then I guess you can leave the TPS alone. Scott |
68eb429
| Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 05:49 pm: |
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Did the noid eliminator today,by eliminating the cable. Then banding the throttle linkage. Also removed outer air box. When all said and done reset the tps. Test ride...the throttle, seemed to not snap closed as fast relating possibly to the noid cable removed? Nothing is binding/rubbing. Throttle response is OOHHH holy s^&%(t better. It was a short ride so the surg 3-3500 couldnt evaluate. i'll check tomorrow. Lastly how can you reset codes? had one before i started. |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 06:03 pm: |
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68-- When you were testing your throttle, did you have your forks turned all the way to the left? If so, the cable was probably binding a bit. If you straighten out the forks, you will have the good snapping action again. Both my XB and 1125r have the slow throttle return action with the forks at left lock. I don't think it is dangerous, but it would be nice if Buell addressed it. Also, if anyone has a trick to "fix" this minor issue, I would love to hear it. |
Usmoto
| Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 06:26 pm: |
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Did the solenoid fix today, removed the solenoid cable from the throttle linkage. Holy Sh%$#, what a difference!! Feels like a totally different bike. Runs much smoother at 3K RPM. Plus banging through the gears on the open road feels like another 30 horsepower! Wouldn't believe it if I hadn't felt it. (Seat of my pants sensor). Actually a pretty easy mod. Hardest part, if you want to call it that, was getting the throttle body gasket in place correctly. Took two times putting it all together but I got it. I suggest it highly if you haven't done it yet. Said it once before, best bike I've owned to date!! Glad I didn't wait for an '09. Happy trails to all. |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 06:34 pm: |
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Hardest part, if you want to call it that, was getting the throttle body gasket in place correctly Hardest part for sure...trick is to set the gasket in place on the base plate first, then press the gasket+base plate over the throttle bodies...WAY easier that way. I don't even know if it is possible to put the gasket on the TB first, then pull it through the base plate (j/k...but it was impossible for ME.) |