| Author | Message | ||
     Swordsman |
LOL, sometimes I wonder why we even have a Knowledge Vault, since the only people that ever check in there are the ones that already have problems. I think maybe we should rename it the Problem Vault.  Can someone else take a look at this and provide a little feeedback? I didn't really understand the one reply I got (hard to cypher through choppy english when I'm already ignorant on the subject!). http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/389075.html?1219535324 ~SM (Message edited by Swordsman on August 25, 2008) | ||
| Point_doc |
SM, I do not have my manual in front of me, but I have been inside the primary a dozen times. Which nut are you trying to get to? | ||
| Point_doc |
 ...sorry for double posting. Found this pic after first post and thought it would contribute to this thread. | ||
| Swordsman |
Great pic! I could have sworn that in the manual, the center nut on the right (in that pic) was labeled as the "Primary Nut"...? Which one actually gets loose? ~SM | ||
| Point_doc |
SM, Found that pic on this web. The nut on the engine crank is called "Engine Sprocket Nut". The one for the clutch assembly is called "Mainshaft Nut" and this has LEFT HAND THREADS. Remove neg. term. from batt., drain primary fluid, remove primary cover. Before you can gain access to the nut on the right, there is an aluminum plate with a press fitted ball bearing and a threaded post that runs thru the bearing and is secured with a small outside snap ring from the front, this is the adjusting screw assembly. You need to remove this adjusting screw assembly by removing the inside retaining ring (located in front of the plate) that secures it to the clutch hub. Once this is removed you will see the Mainshaft nut and washer that has LEFT HAND THREADS. If you are going to retorque this nut; first off it has LEFT HAND THREADS and secondly you will need to install a SPROCKET LOCKING tool. Remove the nut and before removing the washer take note that there is the word "OUT" stamped on it. Clean threads on shaft and nut, apply two:three drops of LOCTITE 262 (RED) onto threads on end of shaft. Return washer with the word "OUT" facing mainshaft nut, if not the trans. may be damaged. Install nut and tighten to 70-80 ft-lbs. I always like to tighten in the "DOWN" direction. Good luck...but I believe once you get behind the cover, it will be intuitive. (Message edited by Point_Doc on August 25, 2008) | ||
| Moosestang |
I thought the one the torque wrench is on in the pic is the primary nut? Isn't that the one that has been changed to 240 ft lbs of torque? Is this something we need worry about on an 05? | ||
| Point_doc |
The torque value is correct, but the nomenclature is found on pages 6-16 and 6-18 of the shop manual as "Engine Sprocket Nut". Not sure what your concerns are for '05, could you be more specific? (Message edited by Point_Doc on August 25, 2008) | ||
| Wantxbr |
SM have you checked your muffler clamps? I got vibrations when one of mine broke. Also have had the vacuum plug come off the throttle body cause a vibration from 3000 to around 4800 RPM. But the Engine Sprocket Nut is the common nut to come loose. EDIT: SW to SM...oops (Message edited by wantxbr on August 27, 2008) | ||
| Swordsman |
Ah! Great info guys! Looks like I was out to tighten the wrong nut anyway! Also, I need to check those clamps. My vibration tends to come in between 3800-4200 rpms, so that could also be the culprit. Thanks again!  ~SM |
