| Author | Message | ||
     Edsvitil |
Do any Buells (including the Blast) have a 1/2" bore front master cylinder? I want to resleeve the 9/16" master on my sportster (resleeving is the easy part, get internal components seems to be the tricky part) to 1/2". Thanks Ed | ||
| Miked |
I have a 2001 Cyclone with stock tires. On some days, even when its warm, making turns at intersections, especially left turns under normal power, it sometimes feels as if the rear tire is wet and could easily slip out from under me. Bike has about 1,500 miles and tires look nearly new. Anyone had a similar experience and what did they discover was the cause. | ||
| X1glider |
Mike, sounds like a chassis/suspension issue. Loose swingarm? Is the rear wheel aligned properly? | ||
| Shotgun |
Mike, my 2001 M2L was set up like that when I got it new. Go thru the suspension set-up portion of your Service Manual and check it out. Mine was off on the rear compression damping. It is great now but original setup felt like it had a rear tire with 60 lbs of air in it instead of 36. Got real "hoppy" in corners. | ||
| Awprior |
Just got done installing a set of EBC HH sintered front brake pads and EBC kevlar series rear pads as suggested by American Sportbike. On my 10 mile 'test' ride, I could hear the front brake dragging a bit, almost like the rotor was somewhat warped, but nothing major. When moving the bike in neutral, I could hear the brake dragging all the way around. Is this just because they are new and need to be worn in a bit, or do they need to be adjusted? There isn't really any way to adjust them other than bleeding, which I'm sure I did thoroughly. Thanks, Alex | ||
| Josh |
Alex, the EBC's "just do that." After about 15,000miles it went away. | ||
| Awprior |
My main concern was how hot the front rotor got. I rode about 5 miles not using the front brake, stopped to feel the front rotor and it was pretty hot. | ||
| Srl |
Looking for a bit of assistance on X1 Front wheel spacers - There is a short one and a long one. According to the parts book the short one goes on the Left side (sitting on the bike I assume) and is PN 41129-99Y, the longer one is on the Right and is PN 41128-94Y (disc side). I ordered what I believed was the shorter one but I received the longer spacer in a bag labeled SPACER, FRONT AXLE, LEFT 41129-99Y. Was the wrong part in the correctly labeled bag, or is the book wrong, or am I just confused, or ? I had to wait 1.5 weeks for this to come in and am now afraid to order the wrong part again. Thanks in advance for the help | ||
| Dave |
Need a picture/parts breakdown scan of the speedo cable routing on an S2 at the front wheel. Should there be a wire guide keeping the cable off the fender? DAve | ||
| Djkaplan |
Srl, I don't have a parts book, I have a service manual for 99/00 M2's. In the service manual, the spacers are shown incorrectly. The short one goes on the disc (right) side and the long goes on the empty (left) side. You are not the first one to bring this up. | ||
| Henrik |
Dave: yep, there is a wire thingy that bolts to the brake mount. There is another clamp that bolts onto the fender itself. Henrik | ||
| Ara |
After nearly 8K miles, my Pirelli Dragon GT rear tire (MTR-04) needs replacement. Evidently my favorite tire is no longer available. Nuts! I'm fairly certain that I'll never see that kind of mileage out of the tire that replaced it, the Dragon GTS (MTR-24) even though US Pirelli says it's a better product. We'll see. | ||
| Bullitt |
FWIW: I have an '00 M2, which came with wheels painted black. Black bike, black frame, black wheels, black plastic, black everything. It was a little too much. I like the look of the newer silver wheels so I decided to try to replicate it. I figured I could polish the wheel lip and bead area once the paint was removed. I bought stripper from Ace hardware and used a wooden scraper to remove the paint. You wouldn't believe how nicely the wheels are machined under the paint. Polishing not necessary. A little Blue Magic and steel wool and they look great. Bright and shiny on the edges, textured/rougher finish on the spokes. I'm tickled to death at how they came out and I spent less than $15 doing it. One more thing: I used a rim clamp tire machine at work to r + r the tires. I didn't want to scratch the wheels or buy the plastic rim protectors. I took a couple feet of heater hose, cut it into 4 pieces and slit each piece lengthwise. I snapped the hose pieces over the edge of the wheel where the machine clamps and swapped tires scratch free. Just remember to pull them back off before inflating. This would work at home using irons too - use one piece of hose that would wrap all the way around and keep the tire levers off the wheel's edges. | ||
| Bomber |
Bullit any chance you can post some pics of your wheels? | ||
| Leeaw |
Bullitt, I did the exact same thing to my wheels last year and I too was pleased with the result. I left the tires on while doing it, so I have to clean the lip up a bit. I think you can see a pic under my profile. | ||
| Cessna |
Have stock silver rims on my 2001 m-2 and would like to clean them up. they have road residue on them, and they will not clean up with soap and water. is there any kind of cleaner i can use to clean all the tarnishes and grit from them?. they are the molded ones with the rough surface. May powder coat them orange, if I do, does anybody have an idea of how much they will cost? | ||
| Ccryder |
Just in case anyone is contemplating some new Michelin 100X tires they are being discontinued! I got the last pair 2 days ago from a shop here in EVV. In October-December time frame they are supposed to be replaced by a Pilot Road. Hopefully it will be better in all respects, but they will need to go a long ways IMNHO. Later Neil S. | ||
| Bandm |
Awprior: My EBC pads had tabs for the anti-rattle clip about 1/8" shorter than the stock pads. This caused the clip to drag on the outside of the rotor. I ground a small part of the clip for clearance, and the noise was gone. Thought about leaving the clip out. Put a new pad and an old one back to back and look at the tabs. Mark | ||
| Roadrunr |
Anyone: Does anybody know what the difference is between the dunlop 207's & 208's is. Thanks | ||
| Djkaplan |
http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/tirecatalog_category.asp?id=1 Probably not the best choice for the street. You may not get them hot enough to work for you unless you're on a racetrack. | ||
| Mikej |
Interesting, that Dunlop site doesn't list the D220 for use on an M2. | ||
| Roadrunr |
DJ or anyone:The dealer I talked to today said that the 207's have been discontinued so I bought a 208. Anyone here ran one on the street? | ||
| Blake |
DJ, Even cold, race tires provide WAY more grip than warm street tires. On the track race tires are run at around 30 psi cold, where on the street you would want significantly higher pressure, like 34-36 psi cold. Mike, Possibly due to the M2's now "out of production" status, Dunlop failed to list it as applicable for the D220's. It certainly is though. | ||
| Mikej |
Ummm, but they list the 220's for the S2 though. Go figure.... | ||
| Cowboy |
Att.....I just finished watching a film on the new Maxxis super Max tire. They are dirt cheap on the net. would some one try one and give us a report. I dont have the balls, to do it my self.ha ha. cowboy | ||
| Doncasto |
Question: Roz needs to be reshoed. I have decided the Bridgestone BT 010 will suit both of us best. Anyone found a decent mail order/website price for them in 170/60ZR 17 lately? I'd appreciate being pointed in the right direction. Thanks, Don PS. MAW is in Colorado and that means sales tax. Bummer. | ||
| Blake |
Don, If you are looking for a bargain on tires, check the ads in back of Cycle Word. Then call Dennis Kirk. They beat any advertised price by $1. | ||
| B2m2 |
I’d like to get some thoughts on plugging a tire vs patching one? I got a nail right about in the center of the tread and I plugged it to get me by, I road the bike over several days with no pressure loss before making it to the dealer. The dealer (Ducati) said that as long as the plug was in the tread and would hold air, they recommended not messing with it. Any thoughts? | ||
| Mikej |
My thoughts on plugs vs. replacement: If the hole was made in a ripping manner cutting threads in the tire plys, then dump it and buy a new one. If the hole was made by a pointed round object and managed to simply part and separate the threads, then plug and play. But if possible remove the tire from the rim and repair it properly from the inside with a vulcanized patch of some sort. If you have enough cash in your wallet to go a week without having to hit the ATM for food or gas money, then buy a new tire. Flats are no fun. And since there is practically no way to tell if any additional damage was caused to the tire structurally, and since there is little possibility to control any debris in the roadway that you may run over, it's usually better safe than sorry and replace the tire. At least that's the public reply. Do what works for you, and hold yourself accountable for the results. All IMHO. | ||
| Ara |
B2m2 - I'll go with Mike's recommendation if it's a rear tire, with emphasis on dismounting the tire and using a plugpatch properly applied from the inside. I rode a plugpatched rear Metzler for over 4K miles without any problem whatsoever. But if it's a front tire, I'd be a lot more cautious. A LOT. If the hole is of any size at all or damaged the tire carcass, I recommend that you buy a new tire. If you elect to keep the tire on the bike, check the pressure before you turn the key every time. |
