Author |
Message |
Buell78758
| Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2008 - 07:20 pm: |
|
Hey, well the helical oil pump drive gear detonated on my 2002 S3T, so starting up repairs. I saw thread on fixing this, just seeing if anyone has some good tips on the repair. Looking for good used cams and/or oil pump, OR may get aftermarket cams. Any suggestions on replacement cams with stock profiles, or slightly improved profiles that will get me a little more low end power without sacrificing top end? Thanks! Christian |
Buellistic
| Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2008 - 07:56 pm: |
|
In your cams are still good, put in needle tip 1.75 to 1 rocker arms from CRANE in DAYTONA Florida ... If not put in some soft ramp cam as are in the XB12 engines and small stem valves which will allow your heads to flow better ... If you oil pump is bad, the PN 26357-02B is the latest oil pump ... You will have to use the fittings off your old oil pump ... Be sure to put in DRIVE GEAR,oil pump PN 26391-06 ... Make sure your primary chain is adjusted to 3/4 inch play on the tight spot and the drive belt is adjusted to 2 inches play on the tight spot otherwise you will be wasting torque/horse power if they are adjusted too tight ... |
Buell78758
| Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2008 - 09:06 pm: |
|
Buellistic, thanks very much for the tips. The cams are toast, gear drive teeth are chipped, so will be replacing. Will look into aftermarket. Thx for the part #'s also, will have my Buell buddy at local dealer scope out some prices. Christian |
Oldog
| Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2008 - 11:51 am: |
|
some thoughts, Sorry to hear this. 1. metal in places you dont want it, Crank bearings oil bag and lines head / return area possible piston / ring areas 2. New cam bushings in gear chest , 3. X1-S3 cams give up a little low end for better mid to and are an excelent compromise the oe was good, it's your money 4. to get the XB valves do the XB heads and get about 3~5 bolt on HP. I dont think ( not sure ) if XBcams are bolt in the head mount must be changed SEE American Sport Bike. My 0.02$ engine comes out and is torn down all parts are inspected and cleaned. if damaged the crank is repaired and reset in the cases. Oil lines / fittings are replaced and oil tank is removed cleaned and inspected. Freshen the top end up say +.005 over valves & guides cleanup if needed new style gaskets bronze oil pump drive gear new oil pump crankshaft seals both sides manifold seals, FI seals. New cam bushings in gear chest If you miss any metal at all you may get to do this over. my advice is worth what was paid for it.. good luck. (Message edited by oldog on August 20, 2008) |
Puddlepirate
| Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2008 - 02:11 pm: |
|
Christian, I've got a set of takeoff stock Sportster "D" cams from my 2001 if you're intested. They will fit your bike, but I'm not sure what cams came stock in yours. I'll let them go for cheap if you want them. |
Buell78758
| Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2008 - 05:43 pm: |
|
Thanks for the additional tips on checking for metal contamination, will do best to clean up the engine. I dont think any metal bits would have got past oil lines, tank and filter. On the cams, will stick to new aftermarket ones, but thanks very much for the offer. Will keep you posted on results! Christian |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2008 - 06:56 pm: |
|
Christian- I think you're correct that no metal is likely to have gotten past the oil filter and into your bearings, but the scavenging section of the oil pump is unfiltered and could pump chips back into the oil tank. At the least, it'd be a good idea to disassemble the oil pump and inspect it if you don't replace it. Probably be a good idea to flush the tank and lines too. |
Bad_karma
| Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2008 - 12:51 am: |
|
I'm with oldog on this, I have found that metal goes everywhere in the engine. Best to disassemble, clean and inspect. The oil tank and lines also. If you have a cooler don't forget it and it's lines. Joe |
Buell78758
| Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2008 - 12:20 pm: |
|
Thanks will do on the clean up and checking oil lines and oil tank. Hopin for the best! Much appreciated, Christian |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2008 - 03:19 pm: |
|
Anybody know any easy cheats for getting into the crankcase on an XB without splitting the cases? Any big passages under the primary cover? On my KLR-250 (which I have seen WAY to much of the inside lately), there are a few ways into the cases (without splitting the cases) that would let me run a really strong magnet on a really strong wire, and go "fishing" for loose steel. Somebody ought to make an electric flush system as well... some really light solvent that is pushed out one tube under pressure, picked up somewhere else under suction, and passed through a filter for recirculation. Doing this with KLR, I just came out of Autozone with an arm load of "brake parts cleaner" cans, and pumped them into various orifices in the case, catching the outflow, and quickly followed that up with several cans of "multi purpose lubricant" before the brake parts cleaner could do too much damage to rubber / seals / gaskets. All sorts of *stuff* came out the oil drain hole, though most was either RTV or aluminum sparkles. |
Oldog
| Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2008 - 11:43 pm: |
|
I did not originate the idea on the metalic particles check with Pammy on this from my own personal experience with smaller jap & european singles if any thing gives up, metal goes all over the place. The oil filter can also depending on temp and conditions be in bypass hence not filtering....... the results would of course be unpleasant and expensive.... Anybody know any easy cheats for getting into the crankcase on an XB without splitting the cases? Any big passages under the primary cover? No the city X is not broken is it? what is trying to be accomplished?} |
|