| Author | Message | ||
     Fresnobuell |
In short, I highly suggesting removing that solenoid. I did it last night. VERY happy with the results. Had I known the improvements it would have been gone long ago. Benefits in no particular order: 1) Lighter, smoother throttle action 2) Butterflys now open 100%, not 80% 3) No 3rd gear stumble! 4) Save a couple pounds of weight. 5) No check engine light so far, but this is subject to change (I tried once WOT in 3rd gear as I thought the CEL was supposed to go off then) I am no mechanic and I am sure there are some guys here that are in my boat--you can stumble through these procedures, but usually they take 3 times as long as they should with plenty of second-guessing. If I did it, anyone can. If I can help anyone, let me know! My one hint for now--when trying to put the rubber throttle body gasket back on (which can be a real PITA) don't put it over the throttle bodies first, then try to pull the top side thru the base plate. Rather, set the gasket in place on the base plate, then press the gasket in place over the throttle bodies. MUCH easier. I used a little tire lube from No-Mar to make it even easier to slip the gasket back over the TBs. Maybe that's obvious, but it took 30 minutes of sweating and swearing before it came to me. | ||
| Bueller_bjorn |
Yeah I think that's next on my list, just want to get the service manual first (on order) before digging in. Did you use the noid eliminator plug from Buell? | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Did you use the noid eliminator plug from Buell? Sure did. You can actually get to the plug easily (just remove the seat) to install the eliminator plug, but the only benefit is no more 3rd gear stumble. That is the biggest thing of course, but the other benefits are surprisingly nice. Now my throttle action is much closer to my friends new Gixxer 1000. I likey. Also, thanks to the couple people who helped me along the way. | ||
| Dtx |
Thanks Fresno. I have everything I need to do this, I just haven't dug into the project yet. Really the only thing that makes me nervous is getting that dang air box base off, and then putting in back on. Don't want to break anything and it sounds like it takes a little convincing to get it on and off. Quick question - When you pull the base off, does the snorkel come off with it? If so, is there anything to disconnect to get the snorkel to come out? I briefly tried this awhile back (before I had the manual) and didn't get anywhere. I didn't want to break anything... | ||
| Krassh |
Couple things: Be very aware of the rear of the base plate. There is the fuel rail, wire harness support and Baro sensor. Make sure they are unhooked before messing with the base plate. The "snorkel" so to speak is 2 pieces. The upper part is part of the base plate. This part slides into to the lower part that is down between the pods. It is easy to figure when you start taking it apart. | ||
| Josh_ |
Do you have to do anything other than unbolt and remove? I thought I saw comments about "fixing" the throttle body? | ||
| Krassh |
You need to lock the part that used to be operated by the solenoid with safety wire or zip ties. Rear left part of the linkage. If you try and actuate it like the solenoid would you will see what I mean. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
DTX--As Krassh posted, the snorkel is 2 pieces. One is the inlet piece between the forks that will not come into play and the second is the front of the baseplate. The snorkel will come apart by itself with a gentle tug and the go back just as easy. Krassh--Yes, there are some fragile pieces at the rear of the base plate that are very easy to unhook and also easy to overlook. Fuel rail just lifts up and out of its connection. Baro sensor unsnaps out of its holder easily. Wire harness just lifts up and out of the holder. Really very straightforward. Josh--I used the picture in this thread to figure out what to lock together. I was a little lost too. You will find the pieces to lock together on the left side of the rear TB. It's small, maybe 1/8" or 3/16" wide http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/367280.html Now I think the jury is still out on what is the best method to tie the throttle body together. I used a steel cable tie like in the picture, but it's damn hard to get tight. Mine is not as tight as the one in the picture. I am not 100% happy with it. I have heard of people using "lock wire" and plastic cable ties (plastic is okay to 185 degrees...is that high enough?) Anyone come up with solid, relatively easy technique to lock the TBs? | ||
| Krassh |
Wish I still had the high temp string tie we used to use in the Aerospace industry. Probably would be ideal. Yeah made the point about the fuel rail because at least one person I know of broke theirs not realizing it was clipped on the rear of the base plate. | ||
| Unibear12r |
Having used a lot of plastic cable ties over the years I'd say that's the last place I'd want one. Can the two actuators be drilled and tapped then screwed together? Otherwise maybe some form of metal clip would be best. | ||
| Krassh |
Not sure, would have to try and se if there is any binding when rotated. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Not sure, would have to try and se if there is any binding when rotated. True, another factor that needs to be considered. There isn't alot of room on the underside of the linkage, so anything that protrudes to low will hit as throttle is rotated.} | ||
| 01xjbuell |
How about safety wire like racers use to tie things off? its strong, and with the tool can be tightened... or I could be completely off base -nick | ||
| D_adams |
I need to do mine soon and I've got safety wire and the tool, so I'll probably go that route. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I used a small screw-band hose clamp. It worked well, but I changed to a ty-rap when I cleaned up the mess I made the first time thru. Safety wire should work very well. Z | ||
| Kttemplar |
I think that the normal ty-rap cable tie should be sufficient. I used a stainless cable tie, but they are very difficult to work with and if not tight enough, can vibrate loose and cause the throttle to stay open by wedging between the throttle stop. I have not had any problems, but I was able to get mine extremely tight. Another good suggestion is a high-temp ty-rap. They have a 50lb tensile strength and are good up to 302F. T&B Catalog Number: TYHT25M UPC Number: 78621095270 Description: Cable Tie 50lb 7" Light Green High-Temperature Nylon with Stainless Steel Locking Device Status: Active General Material Nylon 4.6 High Temperature Color Light Green Dimension Information Length (inches) 7.31 Width (inches) .185 Max. Wire Bundle Diameter (inches) 1.75 Specifications Tensile Strength (lbs.) 50 Temperature Rating -40°F to 302°F Flamability Rating UL 94 V-2 They sell them here, but I do not know how many you have to buy. http://www.newark.com/48K5631/cable-wire-accessori es/product.us0?sku=thomas-betts-tyht25m I think that a regular old cable tie should be fine. Mike | ||
| Josh_ |
Wow, uncabling the solenoid made a huge difference in the throttle response! Pulls smooth and easy all the way up. The bike feels lighter and more responsive. I did get the CEL in 3rd WOT at 4800+ I also used safety wire to lock the throttle. | ||
| Ponti1 |
I've just finished my removal of the solenoid as well...Getting the steel strap tight proved to be fairly difficult. I ended up putting it in the opposite way, so the part that holds the strap is facing inward. It seemed to give a more broad face, so the strap itself could wrap more tightly. Is there a tool to tighten these things like they have for nylon straps? If so, I think it would be worth the cost... | ||
| Kttemplar |
I used pliers and a screwdriver. I pulled on the tab while pushing on the end with the screwdriver. | ||
| Ponti1 |
Okay, that's what I used. I was concerned about the screwdriver slipping while I was still pulling on the pliers. I had visions of breaking or bending something.  | ||
| Eagle1 |
What's a disadvantage to NOT tie-wrapping them together? | ||
| Fireman4u |
What is the part # for this kit? I assume I just have to go to my dealer to order this? I dont have high confidence at this particular dealer so I'll need all the info I can get. Thanks! | ||
| Stewadi |
Anybody have pictures they could post for a reference? | ||
| Slypiranna |
"What's a disadvantage to NOT tie-wrapping them together?" ...possible-flutter-and/or-delayed(by-spring-loade d-function)reaction-to-throttle-input.mm | ||
| Josh_ |
>What's a disadvantage to NOT tie-wrapping them together That's up for debate - by design they were not locked before - that's how the solenoid worked and why you didn't feel the grip move when it activated. | ||
| Misterrich |
Anyone think of welding the rods together. | ||
| Palerider |
Aren't the throttle bodies supposed to be connected even if a solenoid was not used in this application? It sounds like one of the throttle bodies works independently from the other? And after removal of noid they need to be hooked together? If they're already connected to work together(certainly they're not like primaries and secondaries on carbs)why does removing the noid change anything? I'm sorry, I'm just trying to understand this whole thing. As quiet as the exhaust is how much intake noise could there have been to necessitate a piece of hardware that causes hesitation and is being removed by most? | ||
| Josh_ |
The throttle bodies are hooked together by a flat rod on the throttle-side/right side of the bike. Its the only throttle item on that side. On the other side its fairly busy. Of the two arms you tie together, one is the throttle, one is the butterfly shaft. This allows them to operate independently. The solinoid connects directly to the butterfly, allowing it to override the throttle w/o the user knowing. | ||
| Kttemplar |
Stewadi, There are some pics here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/367280.html Mike | ||
| Stewadi |
Thanks Mike |
