| Author | Message | ||
     Bg05xb12r |
Hello Everyone. This is my first post here, i'm hoping someone can help me out. I bought my 05 Xb12r (12,600 Mi.) about 1 month ago. This morning on the way to work She just lost power on me and would'nt re-start. No problem, I troubleshot a little and found a blown fuse (ignition), only to discover that the Genius that I got the bike from had a 25a fuse were a 15 a belonged. I put the right size in there, well now my problem is with the correct size fuses the instant that I flip the engine run switch the fuse blows. Whatever the noise is right away when you flip the switch (fuel pump?) barely begins before it blows (not even a second). I have pulled a lot of the harness apart and have found no shorts so far I have spent all day on here reading and working on my bike, but am still blowing fuses. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You very much. | ||
| Bombardier |
Get a multimeter and check the resistance on the ignition circuit wiring to start with. If no luck go through the rest of the circuits. Could be the positive lead from the battery has shorted on the frame as well. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Brad Check your wiring harness near the steering head. Pickup a service manual. Joe | ||
| Bg05xb12r |
Still looking today, I found that the fella that had my bike before me decided to put the wrong relay in the ignition socket of my relay box (a friggin Toyota relay wtf?) so I think that I have no choice to get the manual and begin the tedious process of going over this baby w a fine tooth. I am going right now to check that battery positive. Joe, I already checked around the Neck but found nothing I paid close attention around the horn as I have seen a few other buellers have found shorts here. Thanks for all the info guys I will keep posted if I find the problem. If you run across any helpful info, please lmk I need all the help I can get, Thanks | ||
| Bg05xb12r |
Hello everyone. I figured it out! after a full day of troubleshooting on Wed. and a few beers I found that the wires inside the fuell pump had rubbed raw and started shorting on the housing, blowing my ign fuse everytime i hit the switch and started the pump. WOW I was happy to find that one. a little solder and shrink wrap and im back on the road! Hey thanks to my buddies Justin for helpin me out and Dave for tech suport. Thanks guys, here some pics of the failure!   | ||
| Bad_karma |
Brad Great job and as stated else where thanks for the pictures. Joe | ||
| Metalstorm |
Great news. Chaffed wires are a royal pain to find. I'm glad you were able to find it sooner rather than later. I had a chaffed wire near the steering neck on my 05 12Scg that was popping the ign fuse. Two years later I started popping the ign fuse again and every once in a while the key switch fuse as well. I found two nicked wires directly under the fuse box. On the bright side, electrical problems may be the hardest of problems to locate but they're usually easily fixed once found. The important thing is that the bike is mechanically sound & healthy. | ||
| Bombardier |
Is this happening on our bikes as well?! | ||
| Metalstorm |
I havn't heard of any of the newer XBs suffering from chaffed wires yet. The amount of older XBs with chaffed wires is actually pretty small. I've only heard of 10 or 12 bikes (mine included) that have had chaffed or nicked wires. Compared to the hundreds that are out there with zero problems that's a pretty amazing track record for such a young company. | ||
| Bombardier |
I guess I am only really concerned about one....mine! If it is caused by rough roads then my bike is a candidate for sure. I live in country Queensland Australia where pothole dodging is a sport! | ||
| Bertman |
Man this looks familiar. My 05 XB12R left me stranded outside of Yosemite last year with a blown ignition fuse. After process of elimination I replaced the fuel pump and all has been well. I never looked at the internal wires until seeing this thread and just went out to the garage and sure enough, two wires rubbed through the insulation. The fuel pump I replaced mine with is suppose to be an updated unit (it sure sounds different) but I wonder if the wiring is better protected or not. | ||
| Bombardier |
Just for the sake of it....do you think the fuel pump will blow out first or will the fuel cap if the fuel ignites? | ||
| Bg05xb12r |
Hey Bomb, Just for the sake of it, I think that my gas cap would have blown off and hit in the damn chin. LOL! I am still smiling, and I still LOVE my Buell American Sportbike!! | ||
| Bombardier |
Same here. Just adds to the excitement! | ||
| Greenman44 |
Hey guys and gals, I have an issue with blowing my ignition fuse also. But Im unsure where to start looking, and how to know when i find the problem. Ive been going over this in my head but can't seem to get the big picture. If someone wouldn't mind explaining to me what the basics are, I'm pretty mechanically inclined but not so much electrically. I have an 06 Uly. You could PM me if you think we are going to high jack the thread. Thanks. Greenman | ||
| Metalstorm |
Does the fuse blow when you press the starter button or does it pop the very instant you turn the key to ON? | ||
| Greenman44 |
It blows the very instant I turn the key on, I thought i had found a wear through by the ECM. I fixed it up and it worked for a couple days, when that blew all I had was a 25 amp fuse. When I changed it back to the 15 it blew again. Im getting a little frustrated.Greenman | ||
| Metalstorm |
Try this, Replace blown fuse then unplug the fuel pump from the harness. With the pump unplugged turn the key on and see how the fuse reacts. If everything is fine with the pump unplugged, as in no blown fuse, you most likely have the the chaffed pump wires like in the pics above. I had the same thing just last month. The wires rub against the sharp edge and they wear through. | ||
| Greenman44 |
Now for the next question where do I unplug the fuel pump from the harness at? Im pretty new to my buell and haven't gotten everything figured out yet. | ||
| Metalstorm |
Fuel pump is on the left side (as you sit on bike) at the back of frame (above heel guard). You'll be able to see how the wire comes out the back and goes up and connects to the wiring harness between the seat and top of frame. These pics are of my S but should give you the general idea where to look.   | ||
| Greenman44 |
Damn man you rock thanks for the help! I'll let you know if that was the problem! | ||
| Midknyte |
How much does a new pump cost? | ||
| Metalstorm |
New pump is around $365.00 I repaired mine with solder and shrink wrap. Much cheaper than a new pump. I believe the internal wiring harness can be bought separately but I have no idea how to replace it. There's a plug of some type that the wires are imbedded in that passes through the pump housing that is either pressed in or glued in or both as far as I can tell. But then again, I'll be the first to admit that I don't know much  | ||
| Midknyte |
I'd assume that one needs to drain the tank before removing? | ||
| Metalstorm |
Absolutely. Removing the rider peg bracket and swing arm is recommended. The service manual does a great job of going over the whole pump removal/replacement process. | ||
| Midknyte |
...and swing arm... cr@p, that'll cost more in hours than the pump itself I gotta imagine you guys have done it yourselves without removing the swingarm. Did'ya? | ||
| Metalstorm |
If you can remove the rear wheel, the swing arm is just a couple more steps. Swing arm is actually easy as long as you have a way of supporting the bike. I used some 2x4s to build a cradle for a motorcycle floor jack that hugs the exhaust can for just this purpose. Drain the swing arm, unscrew the three oil lines from swing arm (which are all different sizes on my 05 so they can't be hooked up wrong) then take off the right side peg bracket (three screws) and zip tie it up out of the way (because the rear brake line and brake pedal are attached to it). Now you have excellent access to the pinch bolt and pivot shaft which is very much just like the axle shaft. The swing arm is light and comes off easy. The first time I did it took me 40 minutes not including the rear wheel removal or draining. The second time I did it after discovering that you really do need to replace the O-rings (had gas seeping out of frame) took me 20 minutes. It was actually a blessing that I had to do it twice. My first fix was to wrap the wires in black electrical tape. When I removed the pump (again) after it had been in the bike for a go0d 20-30 minutes I discovered that the tape was dissolving. So electrical tape will not work in a gas tank. That's when I went with the thick wall adhesive shrink wrap plan. This involved cutting the wires just so I could get the shrink wrap on (doesn't fit over connectors) then soldering the wires back together and more shrink wrap over that. | ||
| Metalstorm |
Some one did remove his pump without removing the swing arm. It's some where here on BadWeB. He also said he scratched his swing arm because there's not enough clearance. | ||
| Metalstorm |
It might be in one of these: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/370305.html?1214580037 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/356435.html?1213672189 | ||
| Bg05xb12r |
I didnt remove the swing arm at all. It was simple. If I remember correctly I just removed the shock bolt and had my buddy lift the bike up so I could get the fuell pump out, and back in again. it only took me about 20 minutes. later I will go back out to the garage and look at my bike and tell you exactly how I did it if you want. But the point is, the swing arm DOES NOT need to be removed to get the fuell pump out. hope this helps. | ||
| Metalstorm |
You had a helper? NO FAIR! THAT'S CHEATING!!!  Seriously, I'm very happy you were able to get it off sans swing arm removal. Just shows ya what a little elbow grease and determination will get you  | ||
| Pso |
Bg- More info would be helpful, so if I need to do it I will have printed out your instructions. Thanks | ||
| Bg05xb12r |
Pso, sorry it took so long for the reply. I just looked at my bike (05 xb12r) to remember exactly what I did to get the fuell pump out. It was very simple. pop the drain plug to let the fuell out. Remove the electrical connector, the fuell line, and loosen/remove the bolts in the fuell pump. Remove the riders heel guard and the nut on the bottom of the rear shock. have a buddy lift the rear of the bike while you slide the bolt out of the shock allowing the rear to be raised higher and creating enough clearance to remove the fuell pump. It cleared fairly easily with little hassle. Please let me know if you have any q's or I missed something. Hope this helps. |
