| Author | Message | ||
     Jdugger |
Anyone else notice a klunk or maybe it's best described as a pop as you get on the front brake? I can do it at speed, and sometimes just by standing still and forcing weight into "bouncing" the front forks. | ||
| Deexn1125r |
I have heard this before, a few times although I always had my helmet on and could never pinpoint where the noise was coming form. | ||
| Edmbueller |
Yep I have it too. Usually when getting on the breaks fairly hard (~60-70%) The "clunk" can be felt through the bars. Feels as if the steering stem actually shifts forward.... | ||
| Spectrum |
Could be loose steering head bearings. Had this a few times on my XB. To diagnose, put the bike on a stand or other means to get the front wheel of the ground. From in front of the bike grab the front forks and pull toward you. If you feel play then the steering head and triple trees needs to be loosened and re-torqued to spec. I'm at work but once I get home tonight I can post the re-torque procedure from the shop manual. | ||
| Markrd500 |
Had the same thing with mine,also happens if you drop it in hard to a corner. Cant feel any play in it but its certainly off-putting. Going into dealers for recall Tue and have asked them to check it. I'll keep you posted. | ||
| Vincent |
yeah, loose steering head. have the same on mine and just haven't gotten around to tightening up yet. Bearings get seated good and allows for some extra room in there and just requires some tightening. should be an easy quick fix, just don't have the manual yet. | ||
| Dalton_gang |
It`s very strange that this thread popped up because mine just started klunking late afternoon yesterday. Nothing serious but very noticeable. I`m going to fix it tonight so I don`t eat a bearing or something. Looking forward to Spectrum`s update. | ||
| Luisemilio25r |
Wow you guys have have very good timing! Mine has been doing it for over a week now. I'll take it to the dealer as soon as I can stop riding it.  | ||
| Spectrum |
Ok here's the procedure to re-torque the head bearings. Put it on a stand or jack it up. The Bottom line is the front-end can not be touching the ground or bearing any weight. By that I mean you cannot use a front stand that lifts by the triple tree. I use a scissor jack under the jack points. 1. Remove the steering stem pinch fastner at the upper triple tree. 2. Loosen the steering stem capnut and back off several turns. 3 Remove the pairs of triple clamp pinch bolts (lower fork pinch bolts on each side). 4. Tighten the capnut to 51.5-56.9 Nm (38-42 ft lbs) 5. Turn the front wheel all the way to the right. 6. Hook a spring scale into the front axle. 7. Pull the front wheel to center position using the spring scale and note the resistance measured on the scale. (1-7 lbs is ok) More than that and the bearings need to be replaced. 8. Install steering head pinch fastner and tighten to 27-30 Nm (20-21 ft lbs). 9. Install and tighten the lower triple clamp pinch fastners to 27-30 Nm (20-21 ft lbs). If you don't have a suitable scale, you can just skip the resistance test, but make sure it turns freely side to side before taking it off the jack. Most Important: Be very very careful tightening the pinch fastners. On the XB's I've heard of several folks breaking their triple tree doing this. By the way Court, there's a typo in step 6 above on page 1-49 of the service manual. | ||
| M1combat |
I would spray all the rotor mounts with brake cleaner first, while working the rotor in and out at the boss. I generally kick the rotor lightly... just enough to make it travel it's range at the mounting point just after I spray a bunch of brake cleaner into it, then do it again. I would assume a sticky rotor mount first, then do the steering head afterwords if it's not solved. | ||
| Spectrum |
Good suggestion Don, although if you find play in the front-end with the test I posted above, the bearings are definitely loose. Also those lower triple tree fork pinch fastners look like they may be a PITA to get to. The pods weren't in the way on the XB's. You may be able to get to them by turning the front wheel side to side to avoid taking the pods off. | ||
| Dartanjang |
I have the same clunk but have checked the steering head bearings as well as the front brake and everything is ok. It seems to come from the suspension. The easiest way of producing the clunk is by pulling the handle bars while applying the front brake. I'll have my dealer look into this when I do my recall. | ||
| Chevycummins |
My bike does the same thing and I thought it was a slip/stick condition that you can feel with the front forks. I noticed it more when moving the bike when turned off. I'm sure it will be "normal" if I ask my dealer. | ||
| Dalton_gang |
No more klunking over here! | ||
| Spectrum |
Neal, Any problems getting to the lower pinch bolts? | ||
| Two_buells |
I got it too! On the kick stand, with the front wheel full lock left, while holding the front brake and pushing down on the right grip I can make it clunk everytime. | ||
| Dalton_gang |
I cheated and adjusted with the upper pinch bolts loosened. There was enough adjustment in the capnut to allow this method. Next time I will have to loosen the lowers for sure. I didn`t try putting tools to the lowers but it did look very doable. A typical torque ratchet will be tough to get in there.(I have a big 1/2" drive and have to use a reducer between it and the allen socket) Edit: Thank you Spectrum for the torque specs. (Message edited by Dalton_Gang on August 05, 2008) | ||
| Orman1649 |
Anyone know if this would be covered under warranty? I plan on setting up an appt in the near future to get the wiring harness upgrade and was going to have them fix this as well but don't wanna get screwed by their shop rates. |
