| Author | Message | ||
     Vortec57 |
So last night like a ••••••• I was putting in my new oil inlet fitting and twisted it off in the pump housing. Seeing that this has been twisted off in there I now wonder if it is ever going to seal if I just put another fitting in after extracting this one. Checked the parts book already and can't get just the base, have to buy a whole pump. Anyone have suggestions on this? the leak before was blowing oil out onto the drive belt and right side of the rear tire so it has to be fixed one way or another. Before I go and easy out this sucker and try again I'd like some input please. | ||
| Vortec57 |
Oh yea its on a 2003 xb9r if that matters | ||
| Reepicheep |
I think there is a new "semi secret" oil pump upgrade, if that makes you feel better about the replacement cost. It supposedly pumps better. I've never had a heli-coil leak either, FWIW, and I think I have used them in a few places where they could have. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Vortec57- IIRC, that fitting is National Pipe Thread (NPT) where it screws into the oil pump. NPT has a tapered thread form- it screws in to a certain point and begins to tighten up (unlike a normal straight thread). NPT threads depend on some type of sealant to get a leak-tight seal. All that said, if you can get the broken off fitting out, you should be OK. Just make sure you use a good pipe thread sealant on the threads before you install the new fitting, don't over-tighten it, and you should be OK. | ||
| Vortec57 |
Yeah I checked the part# already and it's been superseeded twice, so I'm sure it's "better" I'm afraid of doing a heli coil on something like that with the taper and all. Part of why I'm wanting ideas if anyone else has done this. My biggest fear with the one that's on it is that I maybe stretched it to where it won't get tight. | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
If you've not already upgraded the pump drive pinion to at least 06 spec, I'd advise you to buy a new pump & pinion set then you can forget about it. If I bodged it up I'd always have it in the back of my head every time I fired it up. Your call, but a pump & pinion will be cheaper than rebuilding a whole lump. | ||
| Vortec57 |
Grumpy, Can you further advise on the pinion part? Are you refering to the "pro series" shown on Buell's website? Looks like I'm calling Hal's on Monday and taking it in the wallet like a man. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Yep, he's talking about the pro series oil pump drive gear. It's bronze and is standard on 06 and up bikes. The gear on earlier bikes is steel and prone to wearing badly on some bikes. If it does wear too far, teeth will eventually break off, sometimes they go through the cam gears destroying them, the oil pump stops, etc., etc. It can be catastrophic. Check some of the threads in the Knowledge Vault for more info. It's mainly a problem on tubers but isn't unknown on XB's. The 07 oil pump is upgraded from earlier models with increased scavenging capacity (may help with oil consumption by keeping the crankcase "dryer"). Get that one if you can. (Message edited by Hughlysses on August 02, 2008) | ||
| Mbohmann |
+1 on the previous post regarding NPT threads. Get the right size extractor and the broken piece should come out. May take a bit of effort but slow and easy does it. FWIW; I prefer the white teflon paste type sealer. Works great with finger tip application and no shredding like tape sealer. Good luck | ||
| Ghost_rider33 |
I use the yellow paste. It's designed for gas and oil. The white is for water and air. I may be wrong, it's been a while since I was a plumber. But I do recall having to use yellow paste on gas lines. | ||
| Vortec57 |
Service manual is at home, I'm at work. How involved is this pump change out? How much more to do the pro series gear? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Pump change is easy; 3 hose connections and 2 bolts IIRC. Gear change is considerably more involved; the cam cover has to come off. You also have to remove at least one rocker box to relieve the spring pressure on the lifters. I've done it on my S3. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Can you use the new pump with the old gear? I am guessing yes. If the old gear is not wearing, the new one is probably not necessary. | ||
| Vortec57 |
After talking to our "HD certified master tech" I'm going to try replacing the fitting again, but then just keep a close eye on it for a couple days. His thoughts are that I won't need the pump. Hope it's correct, but I'm still sourcing pumps as we speak so I know where if I need it | ||
| Crashcourse411 |
With the vibes this gets compared to other automotive applications I recommend Red Loctite. Clean both the hole and new fitting with brake clean allow to dry. make sure there is no residual oil on either and put loctite on fitting, once installed let dry for at least one hour. Make sure to hold fitting with wrench when tightening line to it, so it doesn't rotate. Red loctite holds until 300F and resists oil and gas once it has cured. To remove if still leaking or broken just heat area to approx. 300 and remove. This works unless housing is cracked. |
