| Author | Message | ||
     C4bird |
So I finally got my bike in for the re-flash. Bike runs noticeably smoother, and there is a noticeable reduction in vibration through the foot pegs across much of the RPM range. I did Zac's trick of 45mph in 3rd, and I can comfortably run below 3k RPM with very little surging. Can't quite let it idle along, but running at 2500rpm is no problem, and getting 40mpg in town now riding this way.  Over all, the re-flash seems to have made many things better, but all in trade I guess. I now have a very prominent knock/loud tick coming from the front of the bike for the first 2-3 minutes it is running from a cool/cold startup. It sounds almost like a rod knock but not quite, a little too solid and loud to be a lifter I think. If anyone ever ran the bike when it was running really rough below 3k, this is what it sounds like. Anyone else have this, with or without the flash? It does follow RPM and doesn't seem driving dependant. I'll have the dealer look at it this week, but they have very few 25r's under their belt, so I doubt they'll have an answer for me. Any info is greatly appreciated! | ||
| Ccryder |
Mine kinda sounds that way on start up. My B-in-law (an Air-head BMW rider) thinks my 25r sounds like a concrete truck when it starts. The sounds and vibes mine produces seem to get less and less as the miles increase. The true test is to compare with another 25r with similar or more miles. | ||
| Zack3g |
i've got a little over 400 on mine so far, and in and around the 3000 rpm range, it rattles a bit...or something. get it up above 4000 and it's plenty smooth. i'm hoping it will work itself out as i get miles on the bike. mine is new-old stock, as i just got it a week ago and it's a november 07 model ... | ||
| C4bird |
It is pretty darn loud, wasn't there at all before I took it to the dealer for the reflash (coincedence??), other than below 3k (tried seeing if it would run down there a few times, never could get it to. On start up it is very obvious (concrete truck sounds about right. ), goes away after about 3 minutes (coincides with a total engine warm up maybe?) I have never ridden the bike below 140 degrees, and usually wait till the temp stops flashing before I take off. I would compare it with one with similar miles, but I have yet to even see another one on the road. Think I saw one on the freeway back in May, but I was in a Jeep with a soft top (plastic windows) so no telling for sure... Strange thing is the knocking/rattling at low RPM that was so prominent before the reflash is now gone, all the way down to 2k RPM. I rode home on the back roads for 8 miles today at 50mph in 6th gear, average MPG said 48 (highest average I have ever gotten). Maybe I should just be ok with it if the dealer says no issue and enjoy the new found mileage. (Message edited by c4bird on July 29, 2008) | ||
| Spectrum |
Nate, this may be a long shot, but have you checked your oil level since the recall. The reason I ask is they loose about 8oz of oil doing the procedure. The coincidence just makes you wonder if they forgot to top it off when they finished. | ||
| C4bird |
I just ran out and checked, it's a tad low but not bad. But, oddly enough the oil is dark brown  Checked it at the beginning of the tank and it was a light hazel color. I'll definately be doing a oil change tomorrow. Thanks for pointing that out Bryan, I probably should have checked it sooner. Now to figure out why it changed color so much in less than a 100 miles... Anyone have any ideas? | ||
| Chevycummins |
You might do an oil sample and have it sent out and tested. It will come back with high wear metals being the break in oil but if the viscosity and oxidation are off it might lead to the oil overheating. Then I would keep an eye on the new oil and see if it does the same thing. I've used oil samples and they are a great tool. Some heavy equipment dealers have the sample kits you can buy. | ||
| C4bird |
Not a bad idea, I'll make some calls after I get it changed and see if I can get it looked at. Wondering now if I should switch to motul or mobil 1 instead of the syn3.. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Nate, this may be a long shot, but have you checked your oil level since the recall. The reason I ask is they loose about 8oz of oil doing the procedure. The coincidence just makes you wonder if they forgot to top it off when they finished. I had my 5th gear done last week and I provided my dealer a quart of Amsoil to use for the top off. When I came in to pickup the bike, they handed it back to me (unused) and told me that the bike lost no oil during the procedure. "Hmmmm....sounds like they forgot to use my oil and now I am being lied to" I thought, but I didn't say anything. Checked the oil two mornings later (after an extended run up in the hills, OF COURSE) and just like I thought, OVERFILLED. Called the service manager and told him I didn't really blame his tech for over-filling the bike as the whole process in general is unclear and ambiguous, but I was not happy about being lied to. He acknowledged that Syn3 was used--the tech didn't read the work order to use customer provided oil. In general, I have had good experiences at my service department. This one left a bad taste. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
C4Bird, I personally would use Mobil 1 V-Twin oil. It scored very well in the Amsoil shootout. IIRC, Motul wasn't a high scoring oil--but I could be wrong. | ||
| C4bird |
Changed my oil this weekend with Mobil One, knock is much quieter, but still there. Not sure what they did, but must be related to what ever oil they put in or lack there of during the recall. Definately an uneasy feeling now, don't think I'll be having them do my valve service when I get there, guess a Service Manual is in my future. | ||
| Jotrevza |
Hey Chevycummins, You mentioned above that the break-in oil "will come back with high wear metals". Is that normal to see for a new Rotax engine? When I opened mine up to do the break-in change, I was kind of concerned with the amount of metal that drained out of the filter bowl. I wouldn't classify it as "the connecting rod getting ready to come out of the side of the case amount of metal", but, still a (somewhat) alarming amount based upon what I'm use to seeing in a production built engine...... It had a fair mix of both brass and ferrous metals. The magnetic drain plug had what I would deem as an excessive amount of "pasty metal" attached to it. The filter itself was relatively clean. I saved the filter in a ziplock bag for posterity. I had the notion to have it tested, but, didn't follow through....... Thanx, Tracy |
