| Author | Message | ||
     Jsimpkins |
So I got a new rear tire installed yesterday on the ole' X1. And while examining the wheel before installation, noticed the right bearings were fried. Bike only has 20k on it, so my question is, "is this normal?" They are supposed to be seal I guess, but this one leaked. Suppose it happens. And the tire is a Metzler Z6 180/55, fits perfect. J- | ||
| Wile_ecoyote |
Some will tell you the stock bearings are junk. I'll tell you to contact Al at American Sport Bike and get your replacements quickly and with no dealer B.S. I did front and rear for under 100bucks. | ||
| Buellistic |
The OEM bearings are good as "i" have 104,078.7 miles my OEM bearings ... One must learn how(and when) to grease sealed bearings(these are not sealed bearings per say, as that seal is just a dust cover) and correctly adjust Drive Belt ... | ||
| Jsimpkins |
How do you replace the buggers! I can see no way of getting them out short of using a press. The only thing I can come up with is to push from one side until the opposite side comes out. Then push back the other direction until the new ones are installed. If the wheels did not have the center spacer I could get a rod down the hub and push on the opposite side bearings. Flipping dealer is two weeks out on maintenance. I might see if the Honda Shop will replace them. J- | ||
| Buellistic |
On the rear wheel you remove the rotor side bearing carefully with a punch ... Then you carefully remove the two on the pulley sprocket side ... Do not put them back in without some wheel bearing grease film on the bearing race that goes into the wheel ... Highly recommend Harley-Davidson wheel bearing grease ... | ||
| Oldog |
do you have pm wheels or cast / marches On PM remove the sprocket and heat the driven side hot 400F gentle taps from far side will remove, you can remove the brake rotor next and heat an tap out as well http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=795323#POST795323 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=804779#POST804779 (Message edited by oldog on July 26, 2008) (Message edited by oldog on July 26, 2008) | ||
| Oldog |
I actualy used the axles and push blocks made from the old bearings that I ground the outside down for a fall in fit for the install ( that guides the bearings in straight ) I agree with Al do not just drive them in, If you have a press then you can Freeze them and push them in. avoid pounding on the bearings and heat is not good for install about 200f or less 400 for install burns the seals and grease. My bearings were dying at around 20K, Buellistic actualy removes the seals and re packs his so they are original,er me I am not that good I would ruin the seals I second Get the bearings from AL he has done his home work and has them on the shelf BTW my stock bearings came from turkey and IMO were not of that good a quality I also thumbs down on Korean bearings Al's are HQ Japanese I hope that this helps. | ||
| Jsimpkins |
I have the Marches not PM. So from what I hear, heat the sprocket side, push from the rotor side until the bearing comes out. Repeat for rotor side. Freeze new bearings, grease slightly, push new bearing in using square facing tool. j- | ||
| Oldog |
your wheel finishes may be damaged by the heat of a torch, Remove sprocket. remove rotor side snap ring heat sprocket side tap or push on center spacer IF hot enough the bearings fall out flip place rotor side down heat wheel end face (as sprocket) when hot with a gentle tap or they fall out all bearings are of course ruined, you can grind them down and use them for spacers and centering guides I used the axle, nut, washers and old bearings for fit and line up please follow the links on my earlier post for more detail I hope that this helps you  (Message edited by oldog on July 26, 2008) | ||
| Werewulf |
ok then, how do you grease the wheel bearings...dont you have to remove them? | ||
| Maxbuell |
I removed mine with a blind eye puller. Think that is what the manual suggest. Free rental from Auto Zone Discount etc.. | ||
| Oldog |
I "grease" them by replacing them, Buellistic may chime in here to explain how he re-greases his by removing the seals. Max the tool is a blind eye puller? thanks for that info! there are situations like finished wheels where the use of high heat may not be soo good, some have mentioned laying the wheels out side in the sun to get them warm heat even just real warm to the touch may loosen the fit enough to ease the removal, with pm wheels they are no longer made and less common so its a bigger issue, | ||
| Buellistic |
Have Cast Alloy wheels ... Use what is called a GREASE INJECTOR NEEDLE that can be bought at Auto Parts stores ... "i" do not remove seals, but slip the needle under the inter lip of the seal ... You do not have to remove the front wheel bearings on the front wheel to grease ... Have a 2000 BLAST and do the same thing on them(they have only outer bearings on both wheels) ... Also still running the OEM bearings ... | ||
| Oldog |
Lafayette can you post a pic of the tool please for reference, I would like to do that to the new bearings in my PM wheels | ||
| Jramsey |
I use a expanding mandrel to grab the inner bearing race to remove the bearings. If you don't want to pick the seal out use a syringe and as Buellistic said slip it under the lip. 1cc in the each front 1-1/2 to 2cc's in each of the rears is plenty and shouldn't "spooge" grease later on past the seal lips. | ||
| Jsimpkins |
Heres the ole' X1 configured as my cold weather commuter. The fairing works great! Hence my need to get it back up ASAP. J- | ||
| Jsimpkins |
Rats the photo didn't upload. j |
