| Author | Message | ||
     Strato9r |
I put one of these things on my 'Bolt, and man, I can't say enough about it. It came in just over a week after ordering it, and it is one sweet piece. Installation was a snap; I had it installed in less than an hour. I wasn't really sure how much of a difference a one inch rise with a one and a half inch rearward offset would make, but it really changed the feel of the bike for the better, and made it nearly effortless to ride all day long. I proved that on Saturday when I took it on a 1200 km rip up through the Eastern foothills of the Rockies, then up through Banff and Lake Louise. I rode up the Icefield Parkway to Saskatchewan River Crossing, then East on the David Thompson Highway to Rocky Mountain House, then back down Highway 22 through the foothills back to Lethbridge. I enjoyed some of the most spectacular scenery anywhere with absolutely no neck or arm discomfort or numbness. As far as the way the bike handles, no compromises there at all; it totally smoked a pair of guys on new 600's on highway 1A between Cochrane and Canmore, who, when catching up later in Banff, were shocked that my bike is only a 9, with Scorpion Syncs on it, yet! I'd SERIOUSLY recommend a Heli-Bar upgrade to anyone who likes to put a lot of miles on in a day, it sure is nice to get home pumped about the ride, not pounded by it! | ||
| Randomchaos |
I bought my bike with the Heli-Bars on it, and my bike has such a comfortable ride. I dont have really anything to compare to though, since I bought it with it on it. I can ride several hundred miles on it with little issues. | ||
| Beeyoull |
Nice! I've been thinking about the Heli. When you installed it, was the bike jacked up or on a rear wheel stand? How'd you make sure that everything was aligned properly up front? Thanks! Jon | ||
| Strato9r |
Didn't have to jack it up or anything! Go to the Heli-Bars website, and you can actually check out the very comprehensive instruction sheet for each model offered. Actually, removing the original top clamp and installing the new one was the easiest part of the swap, and it was amazing how flawlessly the Heli- Bars piece slipped into place; the quality of their machine work is remarkable. Because the forks remain clamped in the factory lower section, nothing is able to move around anyway, so everything stays nice and straight. You will need a Torx bit to remove and install the lock, (one with the hole in the middle), a small assortment of Allen bits, a torque wrench, and some wire cutters. Honestly, it is probably the easiest mod I've ever done on a bike, and quite possibly the most satisfying! | ||
| Ceejay |
What strato said! just remember to set your headset properly. After everything's all tightened up get the front wheel off the ground and loosen the two lower bolts holding the forks in the lower clamp as well as the top stem bolt. Crank the steering stem adjustment bolt down to spec and tighten everything back up. Super simple, and the helibars are a much better mod than I thought they'd be. I commute a lot and have done track day with em on and think they are a great addition. | ||
| Beeyoull |
"After everything's all tightened up get the front wheel off the ground and loosen the two lower bolts holding the forks in the lower clamp as well as the top stem bolt. Crank the steering stem adjustment bolt down to spec and tighten everything back up. " Are these last few parts of the installation required? I don't think I'm up for buying a jack and loosening the lower clamp - I can't take the risk that things go out of alignment. Let me know what you think. It doesnt mention this on the Heli website - what is the need/benefit? Thanks again! Jon | ||
| Deltablue |
You want to make sure that the steering head bearings are tight. Severe head shake is a common problem with the XB's. However the last few times I did mine I just didn't lift it off of the ground, I'm not sure how critical that part is. (Message edited by deltablue on July 25, 2008) | ||
| Beeyoull |
Hmmmm - so my bike, say I'm going 60-70 MPH and I take my hands off the bars, gets this half-inch shake in the bars. It's pretty consistent and doesn't amplify itself. The minute I touch my hands back to the bars it stops. Could this be the steering head bearings being loose? I need to learn more about bikes. I wish there was some kind of class I could go to to learn more - I can't afford to make mistakes and the only place I have to work on the bike is the street (so it can't be out of comission cause I need to be able to move it). | ||
| Beeyoull |
Oh man - I pulled the trigger. These things better be as good as everyone says they are (for $400 shipped)! :-) | ||
| Ebuella_virus |
Beeyoull, Dollar for dollar, it's the best investment I've made on my bike. You'll love 'em. | ||
| Strato9r |
I've got the installation instructions in front of me, and it looks as though the installation procedure effectively includes adjustment of the steering head bearings, so if yours are loose, they'll be OK after installation. The bar shake you described pretty much nails the way the original Dunlop front tire was behaving on my bike just before replacing it. As for learning more about bikes, hey, this website is brimming with information, really savvy riders and gearheads, and occasionally, okra. If you are curious about something, check the Knowledge Vault or do a site search, and chances are, you'll find what you are looking for, or find someone who does. Cool thing is, while this is a Buell based site, most of us dig motorcycles in general, and are happy to share our knowledge! | ||
| Arctic_firebolt |
What do you guys think of the LSL kit? I am considering this over the Helibar. I love the Firebolt but prefer the Lightning setup. The price is about the same too and includes all associated hardware. Appreciate the Suggestions? http://www.motoworldonline.com/LSL-Handlebar-Riser -Kit--Buell-XB-9R12R-Firebolt-2005-2008_p_1075-218 7.html | ||
| Ceejay |
Beeyoull-I just use the jack from my car as my floor jack doesn't get low enough anyways...I don't think it's necessary to get the wheel off the ground but helps eliminate the small possibility of binding in the lower triple. Alignment won't be affected as the top clamp still stays put as well as the axle... | ||
| Strato9r |
That LSL kit does look cool; having the standard bar mounts on a top clamp that is already set up for the Firebolt lock mechanism really opens up the handlebar options. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that the Heli-Bars setup still uses the stock brake line and clutch cable, and using a higher bar will mean having to use appropriate lines and cables. | ||
| Petebueller |
Helibars are brilliant. You get a sportbike riding position with control back at the forks and less weight on the hands. One of the best bits I bought for my bike.  | ||
| Arctic_firebolt |
Tough decision. I may give it another week. The Helibar clamp is a direct replacement. The LSL kit does come with the new brake line, which I am sure will make for a joyous afternoon.  I checked with one of the distributors and was told everything is included and the clutch cable stays the same. Until of course I have it all apart. I just didn't think the Helibars moved things enough but you guys seem to think the difference is dramatic and well worth it. | ||
| Petebueller |
Be sure that the clutch cable will fit without being tight. You may need to change to a lightning cable if you go higher. Stretching the cable causes it to rub where it goes in under the chin spoiler. This is below the level of the primary case so it can start to weep primary oil. | ||
| Nuerburgringer |
The best thing about the Helibar is that it moves the 'bars back closer to the steering axis, where it shoulda been all along. For the life of me, I could never figure out why Buell designed the 'bars so far ahead of the axis on the Firebolts; made for strange steering characteristics. Yes, the benefits of neutralizing the steering ALONE make the Helibar worth the bucks. By all means, do it. You will not regret it. The only downside is that there's not much 'bar/frame clearance at full-lock. | ||
| Petebueller |
+1 The only thing I can see is that maybe Buell thought that you look better leaning over a bit more. By bringing the bars back to the forks I have more chance of holding my bike up if things go pear shaped. The stock bars may even go forward of the front axle when the suspension dives. Bringing them back inhibits lifting the rear wheel under heavy braking and maintains the weight between the two axles. | ||
| Retrittion |
Heli is on my list of things to do for my 12R -- just pulling my hands back and up a bit while riding I can tell it would be a better position. Add in some S style pegs or adjustable ones and I figure that will tweak the ergos just enough -- I love my 'bolt but some days it is just slightly awkward, like I am just having to reach just a bit. I only notice it after 150 miles or more at a stretch (long arms help I guess) but I also noticed the difference compared to my buddy's SV1000S -- I prefer mine but the controls on his seem to be just that bit closer to make it fine for all day riding. Never understood the control ergos for the R bikes -- maybe the test monkey at Buell has super long arms??? | ||
| Arctic_firebolt |
I will keep that in mind about the clutch cable length. I certainly don't want to have to change that too. Thanx!!! What kills me is I was just at the dealer on Monday. Monday evening I was looking at my clutch cable and there is a metal spring which holds the cable toward the frame and away from the exhaust pipe. Well it is apparently broken and the boot over the cable is partially melted. | ||
| Miko_k |
Now which one of you guys will sell me your factory Firebolt upper triple tree clamp?  | ||
| Petebueller |
Hi Arctic. I have a 2007 bolt, and the same thing happened. The 2008s (like yours were even more prone). I got the new model wireform and a new clutch cable under warranty This is the new one - much better - it is a metal cage and not a wire. Same part number with an extra A at the end.  | ||
| Strato9r |
+2 on the steering axis change. I was down wringing things out in the river valley tonight, and the amount of input applied to the inner bar when countersteering seems to have a more natural effect on the behavior of the front end. Mind you, it may also be an ergonomic phenomenon; since my body is in a more relaxed position, less energy is being spent on keeping weight off of my wrists, and my hands are able to grip the bars in a more "handshake" type posture, with elbows slightly raised. Either way, my back feels great, and my bike handles in a very smooth, organic manner. Now, to graft a Uly tail section onto this thing.......... | ||
| Arctic_firebolt |
Thanx for the info Petebueller! I will contact the dealer about that. Now I know what I am looking for in a part replacement too, in case they try to say otherwise.  Have a great weekend! Miko_k, if it were a regular triple clamp it would be an easy answer. Being a 25th Anniversary Eric Buell signature part I don't know if I could do it. Just out of curiosity what would you pay for it?  john | ||
| Arctic_firebolt |
Hey Pete! I just called the dealer closer to my home, as opposed to my purchasing dealer. The soonest appointment is 8/13. He said he needed to order the parts.  Thanks again! John | ||
| Miko_k |
Arctic_firebolt, I wouldn't sell the 25th ann. clamp if I had it myself, otherwise I have seen regular ones on ebay selling for about $80-100, I am looking for a regular one, even scratched up one for modification. | ||
| Arctic_firebolt |
yeah. you're right Miko. It's a keeper.  | ||
| Ceejay |
Miko-I have one It doesn't have the badge but other than that in perfect shape-off an 05 9r. PM me if your interested. | ||
| Petebueller |
Ur welcome John Pete |
