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Jaydub
| Posted on Friday, November 30, 2007 - 05:38 pm: |
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In my haste to get my primary oil changed before the sun went down, i added 28 oz of Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 to this opening http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/274940.jpg Realizing now after re - reviewing the thread from Drfudd, that is the wrong place. I have not started the bike yet. Do i need to somehow extract the oil from there? Thanks - haste make waste as they say.... |
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Birdy
| Posted on Friday, November 30, 2007 - 06:06 pm: |
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Yep. drain it like you did the old oil. then refill it and I'd change it again in a week or so. It takes a Qt and a gasket is all. (Message edited by Blake on November 30, 2007) |
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Jaydub
| Posted on Friday, November 30, 2007 - 06:38 pm: |
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Thanks Birdy! - draining now |
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Blake
| Posted on Friday, November 30, 2007 - 07:55 pm: |
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Adding primary/tranny lube through the chain inspection cover is perfectly fine. |
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Birdy
| Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2007 - 07:03 am: |
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Blake if you read he said he added motor oil not primary oil. That's why I would drain it not where he added it but what he added. Now I don't know it'd hurt it or not BUT I'd hate to trash a primary, clutch and trans myself and oil is cheap. (Message edited by birdy on December 01, 2007) |
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Jaydub
| Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2007 - 07:34 am: |
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I thought that Mobil 1 20-50 synthetic was fine to put in the primary. Should I be using something else? |
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Birdy
| Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2007 - 08:23 am: |
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I don't know. I use the H-D Primary stuff that the owners manual calls for myself. Wait until some of the "Old Timers" show up. I thought I read something here about Synthetic causing the clutch to slip? But I can't swear to that. I think better safe than sorry. |
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Jaydub
| Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2007 - 01:57 pm: |
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After searching and finding many different views / experiences, I am going to stick with the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 Full Synthetic in the primary. I am not hearing or feeling any abnormalities, in fact it seems to shift smoother than when I got it (not sure if the previous owner just didn't change the oil). If there is some reason that this oil should not be used in the primary / transmission, please let me know. If I break it, the wife will never let me live it down Thanks, Jay |
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Jramsey
| Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2007 - 03:36 pm: |
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I wouldn't worry about it,my 2000 X-1 has had Amzoil 10-40 in both the motor and tranny since day one with no problems so far. |
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Djkaplan
| Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2007 - 03:46 pm: |
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I think what the deal is... is that the guy added oil through the inspection cover and not the clutch cover and thought he did something wrong. The oil went to the right place, the only problem is that you you may have added too much oil and not know it - not all the oil drains out when you drain the primary. The only way to know that you didn't add too much is to visually inspect the level with the clutch cover off. This is also a good time to adjust the clutch-pack, which you should definitely do, btw. |
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Buelltroll
| Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2007 - 03:57 pm: |
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I've been running royal purple 15w50 in my primary and oil tank since I was told it will not hurt anything. And I also noticed it seemed too smooth out the gears a little bit. |
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Blake
| Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2007 - 12:35 am: |
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If Screaming Eagle Syn-3 20W50 synthetic engine oil is okay in the primary/tranny, then I'd be surprised if Mobil-1 20W50 caused any issues. |
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Ironhead1977
| Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2007 - 07:26 pm: |
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Run amsoil 20w50 in all oil holes in the Buell and the Road King- runs better, shifts smoother. |
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Jhanz
| Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2007 - 11:27 am: |
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Mobil 1 V Twin, 20w 50 makes for a silky smooth tranny, in my limited experience. |
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Timconnly
| Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2008 - 02:48 pm: |
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what is the best fluid for the trans on my 97-m2 i run rp oil in the motor and its great |
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Buell_bert
| Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2008 - 05:30 pm: |
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I just use 20-50 in the engine and primary. Most people will tell us what they believe is the best but any oil is much better than no oil. Also the proper amount and viscosity is equally important. The SAE designations now are much better than back in the 70's when I was a mechanic. |
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Jandj_davis
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2008 - 01:21 pm: |
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I just did my primary recently ,and put Mobil1 V-Twin 20w-50 in it. It runs fine, but after a full-drain it took almost 1.5 qt to fill it to the point specified in the service manual. I did have the bike on a wheel-stand, so it was vertical, but that is recommended in the manual as well. Did I do something wrong? The bike is shifting fine, the clutch is working fine, It just cost me an extra $5. |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2008 - 03:55 pm: |
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Maybe you hit the wrong point. The picture in the service manual isn't the clearest. There is a "waffly" part of the clutch pack, and you want to fill it until the fluid just touches that. I don't think I ever got more then maybe 1.1 or 1.2 qts in there. |
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Buell_bert
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2008 - 10:56 pm: |
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I guess I just pour in 1 qt. and it all works just fine. I also change it a couple times a year because oil is cheap. I do the same in my 4 stroke boat motor and lower unit. |
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Jandj_davis
| Posted on Monday, July 21, 2008 - 01:47 pm: |
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Yeah, the picture in the service manual isn't great. I filled until the oil touched the bottom of the clutch cable. Was that too much? Will I damage anything? I may have been closer to 1.2 qt. I used a little oil as a "flush" to get the old stuff out. |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, July 21, 2008 - 04:56 pm: |
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Yeah, that was too much. I doubt it will hurt anything, though it might get churned up and foamy. You can drain it with a Turkey Baster from the Derby Cover. Mine is pretty fussy about how much is in there, I can tell a difference in quality of shifting if it is over or under filled. |
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Greenman44
| Posted on Monday, July 21, 2008 - 07:17 pm: |
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I have a question about changing from regular 20-50 engine oil to a synthetic. What is the procedure for doing so? I've heard you don't want to make an immediate switch. Maybe run a "hybrid" I'm sorry i forgot the word they use. If there is a better thread or one that has already been started forgive me in advance I'm a newb on the posting. Thanks for your help |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, July 21, 2008 - 10:31 pm: |
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All urban legends. Maybe they had merit a long time ago, but to change to synthetic, just change to synthetic. And sooner is better. Non synthetic oil is more or less doomed in an high performance aircooled motor. Heck, I can't even really run non synthetic safely in either of my cars anymore (2001 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo, and 2003 Toyota Sienna V6 VVT). Both cars have a reputation for sludging if you run non synthetic. |
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Greenman44
| Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 - 06:11 pm: |
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Thanks Reep, what brand do you use for your bike and where would I pick some up? How many quarts should i get to do the primary and the engine oil? Thanks again for the help! |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 - 07:06 pm: |
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I use Castrol Syntec 20w50 (full synthetic). Not so much because I think it is best, but because it is always at Walmart and $5 per quart or less. I have also used Valvoline full synthetic 20w50, and it worked great as well. It was what was normally at my local Autozone for about $5 per quart. The screaming eagle full syn is great stuff as well, probably better then the two I list above. Just a little more $$. I have used Mobil 1 15w50 full synthetic with good luck as well. I'm no snob... any SAE approved full synthetic is good enough for me. If WalMart made their house brand full synthetic in 20w50, I would use that. |