Author |
Message |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2008 - 03:50 pm: |
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So...I went and rode around for a bit today, and heard a nice loud tick, accompanied by a slight rattle when I hit bumps. I finally stopped and started checking things out and noticed something that's not good at all... My freaking $450 Race Header on my M2 is cracked!!!!!!!!!! The crack is on the weld connecting the top pipe to the pipe that goes into the collector (front, left corner of motor before the bend back to the collector, as you sit on it). I will get pics up next week as I have to leave for my Drill Weekend in a few. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH, this is sooo not cool. I can't even get a replacement for that I bet. (Message edited by brinnutz on July 18, 2008) |
P_squared
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2008 - 03:53 pm: |
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Can you get someone to TIG it? HD of Frederick did mine a few years back and based on your description, it's in the same spot. |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2008 - 04:39 pm: |
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Here are some photos I just took: Don't mind the Automotive Exhaust Clamp...It holds much better than those damn strap clamps that I've broken so many of!!! I'm going to go cry now...Someone please hold me. |
Bads1
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2008 - 05:17 pm: |
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Its fixable. But just maybe it was the Automotive exhaust clamp that did it. It may have been putting pressure in that area.... just a thought. But as I said Wilson it can be welded again. |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2008 - 05:24 pm: |
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Well thats good... I was thinking of putting on the stock header and getting a V&H pipe, see if that gives me back some power since I lose some with the wide open exhaust. |
Americanmadexb
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2008 - 08:14 pm: |
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ummm, im damn sure its NOT from all those wheelies lastnight!! |
Regkittrelle
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2008 - 09:12 pm: |
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Brings a tear to my eye it does... reminiscent of the older,simpler Buell daze. |
Bads1
| Posted on Friday, July 18, 2008 - 09:17 pm: |
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Yep them's were the day's. |
Toona
| Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 12:16 am: |
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I have a tig.... AND I know how to use it... Need an address? |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 01:44 am: |
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Yessir...I should be able to pay shipping there and back, since I work for Fedex and all...what's the charge for services? =) |
Smoke
| Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 08:27 am: |
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i can have it welded at my shop also Wilson. they keep welding up my tuber headers. no charge. send a pm. tim |
Rick_a
| Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 09:55 am: |
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Mine has broken some 3 times. Back then race really meant race use only, I guess. When it gets fixed in one spot it cracked in another. The header has twisted so that the collector has moved position over time. I've modified exhaust mounts to let it stay there and that's where it seems "happy". Nice front clamp...you can special order the proper stainless T-bolt clamp from NAPA for $7-$8 dollars. I believe having a very rigid and heavy duty rear clamp helps. A few people have added an extra mounting tab like the original header with some success. I've even seen the headers cut and modified for a slip-fit with springs. |
Toona
| Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 10:24 am: |
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Brin... PM sent with address |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 10:56 am: |
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Rick, any pics or how to's on the spring idea? Toona, Got your PM. I'll let you know when I ship out. Tim, Thanks for the offer! |
Blake
| Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 06:32 pm: |
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I'm as certain as possible without actual testing to prove it that the above failure is due to excessive vibration of the race header's extended length header pipes They need to be reinforced to reduce their natural frequency of vibration. Meaning weld a couple gussests on either side joining the two header tubes and thus shortening the length of the header tubes that are free to vibrate. Shortening the length that can vibrate raises the natural frequency of vibration, thus eliminating the problem. The clamp isn't the issue. |
Xbduck
| Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 11:11 pm: |
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Another issue is if the welders work with TIG welding structurally only. That is to say they don't have experience welding stainless PIPE. If the pipe is not purged with an inert gas, i.e. nitrogen or argon, it will crystallize on the inside and make a much more brittle weld. That may also contribute to the second and third failures. |
Xbduck
| Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 11:19 pm: |
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Another thought from a performance look, the crystallized inner weld will screw with the air flow and reduce the efficiency of your header. I know the situation messes with fluid dynamics in the industrial pipe world. |
Steve_mackay
| Posted on Sunday, July 20, 2008 - 12:34 am: |
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Darn, Wilson, seems you need some machinist to make ya somethin' eh? |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 - 12:34 am: |
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Well... I've some more issues..From the ride home from noticing the crack, I had an exhaust stud shear off. So, I've got to take that out. Then, after pulling the header, I look in to see my valves are white...How awesome is that? I go to pull my intake manifold so I can check those seals and well, I can't even loosen the bolts...After I took the carb off... (Message edited by brinnutz on July 22, 2008) |
Diablobrian
| Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 - 01:46 am: |
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wow, when it rains it pours, but at least you found out about the lean condition before damage was done! |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 - 01:54 am: |
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Is there a trick to loosening the damn intake manifold bolts? Mine seem to be pretty freaking tight. |