| Author | Message | ||
     Speedfreaks101 |
I repacked my wheel bearings with Mobil-1 synthetic grease. I have packed many bearings and never had much of an issue until this time. The bearings had a good amount of grease but I added till they were full. After a 100 mile ride I checked them and some of the grease had oozed out. The bearing did not leak before and the seals are fine. I chose this grease because I thought it would have less chance of liquifying and hold up up better under to heat. On the Mobil 1 grease container it has this statement "Exclusive of additive carrier oil Now for my questions. 1. Have you had this situation happen before? 2. Would the "carrier oil" cause this issue ? 3. Any thoughts? | ||
| Beachbuell |
Aren't they sealed wheel bearings? If so there is no maintenance or repacking needed. They are just replaced if there is a bad or damaged one. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Speedfreaks- Check some of the wheel bearing threads in the Big, Bad, and Dirty forum for suggestions for re-packing your bearings. It sounds like you simply put too much grease in the bearing. There should just be a coating on the bearing retainer strip. If you packed the bearing FULL of grease, that's too much. When it heats up and expands it'll force its way out. Mobil-1 is excellent grease; that's not the problem. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
Our bearings are sealed. No need to Re-grease them. If they were getting dry they should be replaced, They are in the elements, which is why they are sealed. | ||
| Teddagreek |
You can pop the shields off most bearings with out damaging them... | ||
| Guell |
i have done the same, just dont pack them too full | ||
| Jramsey |
If your going to repack sealed bearings and don't have a Syringe to measure just a dab on the end your finger will do it, you don't pack them like an unsealed automotive tapered wheel bearing. Over packing a seal bearing results in spooging grease at minimum to blowing out seals. 1-1/2 cc in the smaller front wheel bearings and 2-1/2 cc in the larger rears is more than adequate for approx. 10k miles. Pick the seal plate off a new sealed bearing and you'll be surprised how little grease the manufactures put in them. | ||
| Mr2shim |
I would just replace them. I don't think they are so expensive to where it would break the bank. | ||
| Speedfreaks101 |
Thanks for the info guys. I have packed many sealed bearings in the past and never had this happen. Since I was only to get to one side of the bearing I tried to compensate and I guess it was a bit much. BTW I did buy a syringe today so next time I can out the grease where it needs it. thanks again, Bart | ||
| Speedfreaks101 |
One more thing does anyone know what grease was originally used in our wheel bearings? I know it is a little late but I want to check compatibility of the original grease and the Mobil 1 Synthetic. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
I'm still stuck on "why"? Bearings are universal parts, you don't have to buy from a dealer. Prices at a bearing supply shop are good and the quality selection is good. Other bearings, I understand, but not this. I like to tinker and refine too, but I don't see doing this (except in an emergency, of course). | ||
| Speedfreaks101 |
If I am doing preventive maintenance and would like to extend the life of the bearings. Not to mention that at this point I desire to have the knowledge. | ||
| Etennuly |
I do mine every time I change tires. It is a free, preventative, easily done item. Many Ulysses riders have found by pulling out the seal, that their bearings had water intrusion and rust forming. It saved them from a major failure on the road. Since the bearing won't tell you when it's time is up, checking it is a good idea. The ones that had that failure were in for a bad time. Some required new axle, wheel, center spacer, bearings, and motel rooms while waiting for parts to arrive. Not fun or cheap if you are a thousand miles from home. I pull the seal out and smear in a little fresh Hi Temp wheel bearing grease, leaving air space, press the seal back in and then put a thin coat of anti-sieze on the outside surface of the seal. That helps to keep water and dust out. Might not be to good for you show bike clean guys though, it isn't as pretty as a clean seal. | ||
| Speedfreaks101 |
One more thing I have found. The bearing #'s on the seal do not match NTN's info on their website. The stock bearing has a seal on each side of the bearing but if you look at the description on their website then it lists the bearings as single seal. http://www.ntnamerica.com/datasheet.asp?CO_PARTNOS EARCHTYPE=EXACT&CO_PARTNO=6005lu&MANUFACTURER=NTN& CL_PARTNO=6005LU&BEARINGCATEGORY=RBSRD Not to mention that the original bearing# for the tensioner pulley is not even listed. Also for anyone that can't seem to fathom why we want to grease our bearings instead of replacing them please understand that you can only change bearings a limited number of times. Each time a wheel bearing is replaced it compromises the housing's ability to hold a bearing. Bearings may be cheap but if you lube your bearings each time you install new tires you will extend the life of your bearings and effectively extend the life of your wheels. | ||
| Teddagreek |
Has any one tried Ceramics Yet??? | ||
| Jlnance |
Iamarchangel - http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=142838&post=1095267 | ||
| M1combat |
"Has any one tried Ceramics Yet???" That's where I'm headed. | ||
| Jos51700 |
Ceramics are great for low roll resistance. I don't know about longevity/strength. Cycle Connection had them in the Project V (Which had Buell XB wheels), and when it was on the jack, you could give it just a little spin, and it would spin for an hour or two. | ||
| Swordsman |
"Also for anyone that can't seem to fathom why we want to grease our bearings instead of replacing them please understand that you can only change bearings a limited number of times. Each time a wheel bearing is replaced it compromises the housing's ability to hold a bearing. Bearings may be cheap but if you lube your bearings each time you install new tires you will extend the life of your bearings and effectively extend the life of your wheels." I know nothing about this, so I'm guessing that when you "pop the seal" to re-grease, you actually leave the bearing in the housing to do it? Otherwise it'd be the same "stress" as a full replacement, pressing it back in...? ~SM | ||
| Etennuly |
Yes, the seal itself is all that is removed. I pick mine out with a big safety pin. Then inspect it for clean grease and no rust, smear just a little hi temp wheel bearing grease in it and the seal will push right back into its groove. These bearings on the rear wheel are hard to turn by hand. the fronts turn quite easy. I usually refresh the anti-sieze on the axle while it is out and then smear a light coat on the outside of the seal. | ||
| Speedfreaks101 |
That's where I'm headed. I decided that I am going to go ahead and replace the bearings in my bike and go with hybrid ceramic bearings. I have 20k on my current bearings and figured that these will last for a very long time. I man possibly become a distributor here locally. (Message edited by Speedfreaks101 on July 17, 2008) |
