Author |
Message |
Prichmon
| Posted on Friday, July 11, 2008 - 08:16 pm: |
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I have an 06 XB12X I just purchased ~ 20 days ago WITH ~17k. Ever since I purchased the bike has coughed fairly regularly especially when cold. I sent the ECM off the be flashed with the 07 map to richen it up and make it run smoother according to my research. I got a ECMSPY cable to be able to take a look inside the ECM. This morning I went to leave for work. The bike coughed multiple and violently in a 1/4 mile and subsequently died twice. I returned the bike home. I decided to check the TPS. It was at 8.8%. I reset the TPS to the point where it flopping 5.1-5.5. I could never get the TPS to 0 at fully out the lowest it would go is to 1.2%. After the TPS reset the bike acted like it had ~15 more hp. Unfortunately the bike acts like it is hitting a wall at ~4800 rpm and starts bucking. any ideas? |
Froggy
| Posted on Friday, July 11, 2008 - 08:29 pm: |
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Warm the bike up before doing the TPS reset. If you have to, let it idle for 10 minutes in your driveway. As your turning the idle screw, give the throttle a twist or 2, it seems like the valve sticks or something and the spring action forces it. |
Prichmon
| Posted on Friday, July 11, 2008 - 08:32 pm: |
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I'LL TRY THAT. I DIDN'T LET IT WARM UP. |
Froggy
| Posted on Friday, July 11, 2008 - 08:42 pm: |
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Ok not being warm enough was what i suspected, good luck BTW, update your profile! |
Ft_bstrd
| Posted on Friday, July 11, 2008 - 09:15 pm: |
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The bike is supposed to be at 300* I think. Take it out on a spirited ride (below 4800 RPM) and then do the TPS reset. Also, do you have the 07 airbox or have your 06 opened up? |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 12:09 am: |
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TPS reset also requires an AFV reset (see manual), and yes, it has to be done hot. "I sent the ECM off" tells me it was out of the bike - ANY time the ECM is out, especially if it's loaded with a different calibration (effectively making it a new ECM) you MUST do a TPS reset per the manual or you get poopy / non-running behavior. |
Prichmon
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 08:46 am: |
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The AFV was set to 100 at the same time as the TPS reset. I'm going to do the reset this morning and see what happens. Ft_Bastrd: OPened up 06 airbox to complement the ecu. Thanks Guys |
Etennuly
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 09:10 am: |
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One more thing, the cough will always happen if you don't let it warm up before you take off. In the summer I let mine idle for about two to three minutes before riding. It gets a little upset when cold otherwise. In winter I let it idle for about three to five minutes before taking off. And while it is warming up do not touch the throttle. |
Rclaytonsharp
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 09:22 am: |
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First check to see if you have enough freeplay on the cables. If the throttle plate is not closing all the way I don't think you'll get the TPS to 0. |
Prichmon
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 11:49 am: |
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I reset the TPS with the bike hot. The value is now 5.1. The idle is hovering ~11-1200 rpm. The bike is revving just like it should. I guess I'm spoiled with my VROD it starts and pulls cleanly cold or hot. I'll wait and see how it does when it is cold. Rich |
Andrejs2112
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 12:03 pm: |
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That idle may be high. 950 seems to be the magic number. Mine starts cold just fine at 5.1 and around 950 rpm. Cold meaning above 60. Below that it stalls sometimes. Good luck. |
Ft_bstrd
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 12:46 pm: |
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1050 is the spec idle speed. Below that, and the stator will just barely keep the system charged. If you have on accessory lights, heated gear, heated grips, GPS, etc. running while idling for long periods, you may have a system that ends up being undercharged. I have mine set to 950 but monitor the charge output. |
Froggy
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 01:32 pm: |
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Yes 1050 is what the book calls for, i personally have it at around 750 cause i like the sound better. I just got to be carefull at lights, its easier to stall with the rpm set this low. |
Prichmon
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 01:59 pm: |
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I let the bike sit for several hours to cool. The bike kicked over and started fine. I pulled on my helmet and attempted to rev the bike and maneuver it around the garage. It revved to 2000 rpm and died. for the ~1 minute I would restart and rev the bike to move it into a position to get it out pf the garage since it would not stay running. It died 3x consecutive. At the top of my 15 yard driveway it idled roughly @~800rpm. When I pulled away it continued to cough as I rolled on the throttle and through acceleration in the next 2 miles occassionally. In cruising at ~3500+ the bike seems to do just fine. The rest of the 10 mile trip was uneventful. The bike ran fine. I stopped in Circuit City for a TomTom cable we went to pull away I rolled on the throttle the bike coughed multiple times. The rest of the trip home was uneventful. I don't know how to set the idle speed unless it is through the TPS adjustment. After the long rides the AFV is from 105-111 and the idle is coming down to the ~1100 range. The stator puts out 14.2-5 volts continuously at idle. My previous automotive knowledge says 13.5-8 max charge for a healthy system unless the VR is bad or the battery is excessively weak. While adjusting the TPS I never saw over 12.5 volts so I believe I have either an overcharging system or a dieing battery. rich |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 04:11 pm: |
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If you look at the bike from the front, under the left side scoop is a knob with an allen key hole in it. That's your idle adjust. That much coughing, I'd look around / spray some carb cleaner at the intake-to-head seals and see if you don't have a leak starting. |
Prichmon
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 05:00 pm: |
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Ratbuell: This adjuster is also how we adjust the TPS during the reset? Mine was ~5-6 inches behind the scoop. To adjust it I had to pull the lower airbox cover to get a hand on it. |
Prichmon
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 05:30 pm: |
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Looks likes Typsymcstagger is having similar off idle stumble issues the same as me. Unfortunately it looks like he has modded his bike with a KN and drummer. |
Jlnance
| Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 07:36 pm: |
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1050 is the spec idle speed. Below that, and the stator will just barely keep the system charged. I've heard there are issues with the oil pressure being too low as well. |
Prichmon
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 07:48 pm: |
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I am running thin on patience. I decided to retard the timing 1-2* since I had read where so many others have had too far advanced timing from the factory. The bike still coughs nearly as often just not as violent which would be consistent with the mild alteration in timing I had made. I now notice a little more farting from the exhaust. Idle dropped to ~1000. Just after startup it still wants to drop down to 600-750 rpm for several minutes while it warms. Can anyone explain why it drops RPM so suddenly during warmup right after startup? How do I verify that the 07 flash was placed on the ECU? For all I know during the mixup and transition at HD they could have put anything on my ECU. I am going to have to cry uncle and take it to someone who can check for intake leaks... Or concede that maybe my perception isn't as bad as it seems and possibly this is just the way the bike is SUPPOSED TO RUN with coughs and farts. I'm just not used to it... My 883R did it and was solved with a 45 idle jet. The VROD never did it until a KN and VMOD exhaust. A Gil's box fuel modifier with proper settings fixed the VRSCR. All the bikes of my past have never behaved in this manner when stock. Any longtime owners of a ULY relatively near Huntington WV 25705 so I might come to visit and get an objective opinion? Or could convince to come visit for some food/money? The closest dealer is 50 miles. HD/Buell of WV in Charleston is my closest dealer which I've never had any luck dealing with their people. Thanks to everyone who has replied to me on this thread I really appreciate the patience. Rich |
M_singer
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 09:20 pm: |
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Rich, They are not supposed to run that way. My bone stock 06 Uly doesn't do any of the things that you describe and neither did the other '06 that I rode but didn't buy. My '05 Firebolt didn't run like that either. Wish I could be of more help. |
Ksuly
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 09:40 pm: |
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I've read in several posts about opening up the airbox on the 06 Uly, could somebody enlighten me on how to do it please. Thanks |
Gamdh
| Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 10:23 pm: |
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I replaced mine with the '07 inner airbox. Others drilled holes on the left side.. and covered the holes on the right... Mine is not stock anymore (but it was for the first 6K or so) and the only time I have any anykind of issues with a cough/hesitation is when I don't let it warm up before riding off. I follow a procedure similiar to what Etennuly points out above. Interesting to note I had a similiar issue with getting the TPS to zero the first time... I ended up pulling the airbox etc.. so I could actually see the throttle body. That way I new is was actually fully closed when I zero'd the TPS. I didn't see it specifically mentioned, but after you reset the TPS and the AFV, did you ride in the closed loop area to allow the ECM to relearn? (Message edited by gamdh on July 13, 2008) |
Prichmon
| Posted on Monday, July 14, 2008 - 08:33 am: |
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I have let the bike warm for as long as 4-5 minutes this summer from cold ~60-70* in the morning in WV. I still will get the cough. Unless the bike is HOT it coughs. I have ridden ~50 miles since the proper TPS reset where I zeroed the TPS and set the AFV to 100. The mod to my 06 airbox consisted of 5 1-3/8" holes on the left upper inner airbox and 2 at the front. |
Scgbambie
| Posted on Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 03:32 pm: |
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im from Kenova and ride an xb12scg |