| Author | Message | ||
     Jmartz |
Some workers of my local dealer (a fairly high volume franchise within the top 10) have expressed concern about the BT 6 speed units they have installed for customers. Shoptalk has it every single one has come back with problems. Don't know what manufacturer specifically or whether the trans was a cassette or a factory assmbled unit. There are the same people that swore the Yost carb kits ran lean and poorly but I've been able to adjust the kit in my buddy's S1W to run quite well. | ||
| Aaron |
The washers are only .047 thick, not a big deal, I don't really see a downside. I just slapped'em on there and didn't worry about it. Got the regular shift pattern and the open trap door. You sure the same sealed trap door will work on both the stock and S&S cases? I have that setup on my race motor, and I'm pretty sure the trap door says S&S - Baker on it, as if it's specific to those cases. Honestly, I wasn't even aware you could get a sealed trap door for stock cases. It'd sure make trans oil changes more difficult, considering the stock cases have no drain plug for the tranny. Guess a person could add one. | ||
| Ron |
Regarding my questions about my transmission making bad sounds in first gear. Somewhere I read that it was almost impossible for your drive belt to be adjusted too loose. So I adjusted it so there was quite a bit of slop. Whith the bike unloaded and on "lever stand" I could easily push it up and touch the swing arm. I honestly don't know if this is when I first noticed the noises in first gear or not. But a couple of days ago I re-adjusted it, with about 1/4" more slack than the book calls for and with the suspension unloaded and my shock set to the pre-load I preffer. The sound has gone away. My conclusion is that you CAN adjust the belt with too much slack. It may not slip teeth (it didn't because I ran 3 1/8th mile drags with it this way and it never slipped a tooth. But with all that slack it must play some sort of havok with the tranny in first gear under no load. Anyone who can fill me in on how this might work is sure welcome. Ron | ||
| Gcpoland |
Has anyone put the Primo Belt drive in a S&S case yet. I keep looking at it, but I haven't found any volunteers yet. Gary | ||
| Jmartz |
aaron: You must mean there is no plug for the primary oil. Well, I had planned on leaving the communication "hole" open. I've heard of people sealing it but welds always look too ugly and blobby to me, plus there's the need to remachine the surface, a process that would move it inward a few .001ths, then there migh be issues of fit for the guts. I was not aware that the seat surface upon which the trap door sits could be different between stock and S&S cases that's why I asked. It did not occurr to me these doors would not interchange. I'm glad you mentioned it. Jose | ||
| Aaron |
Well, um, I don't have it open at the moment, but my always suspect memory tells me the drain plug in on the primary side of the trap door, not inside the gearbox. No? | ||
| Jmartz |
I don't know where it is exactly but we need not dwell on this trivial matter. | ||
| Jmartz |
Gcpoland: That set up might actually be lighter than the stock all steel wet chain system. You could also mill out sections of the outer and "inner" primary cover to both vent and lighten. I would try it if It was easy to dry up the stock cases. One of these days... | ||
| Henrik |
Ron; reg. belt tension, follow Buellistics excellent advice: Put the bike on a set of jack stands - get all weight off the rear wheel and swingarm - disconnect the rear of the shock and move the wheel/swingarm through the full range of motion. At the point where the center of the tranny pulley, swingarm pivot and rear axle line up is where your belt will be the thightest. Adjust for just a hair of slack in that spot, and you should be good to go. Henrik | ||
| Jmartz |
Aaron: I have a couple of ?'s regarding the Baker. In 1995 along with thickening the trans pulley splines to 3/4" HD also changed the trans gear design and called "high contact". This change has also been applied more recetly to the cam/pinion set and then to all the cams. What does Baker use, the old thick tooth noisier style of the new thin tooth quieter version? Also in 2000 2nd gear was weakened (made higher) in order to reach a faster speed at redline shift point. This change did wonders for N. GA mountain riding beacuse it moved the "bad" transition at 2nd to 3rd down to 1st to 2nd. Since 2nd to 3rd is used more frequently I found the change to be quite an improvement. What 2nd gear ratio does Baker use, the pre 2000 or post 1999? As always, your answer is appreciated. | ||
| Aaron |
Jose ... they offer a different gearbox for 91-94 versus 95 & later ... see here for the full story, including gear ratios. When you install a Baker, you retain your old 5th (output) gear, as well as the countershaft gear that drives it. The instructions recommend updating these two pieces if you have '94 or earlier, but it's not required. | ||
| Peter |
Jose, I fitted one to my S1 a couple of days ago. It is nice to use. Shifts better than stock and finally stops me going for that extra gear that was never there  It is something that the factory should probably have made a long time ago, although I guess the Sporties never made the power to pull 6th. PPiA | ||
| Jmartz |
By reading their website I cannot tell what the '00 2nd gear change was. They show '95 and up with a 1.97 but I don't recall what I changed mine to or from. All I know is that it was a lower number than was in there. Baker uses "Low Contact" thick toothed noisier gears for 1st, 2nd and 3rd. 4th and 6th have the modern "high contact" quieter design. They aso offer an "S" designation with higher 1st and 2nd which the sales person recommended. Which set did you gey for your M2? BTW the sealed door fits only S$S cases. | ||
| Jmartz |
So Peter, do you have clip-ons now on your bike so you can wind it up past 150 mph? | ||
| Aaron |
Looks like the "S" gearset moves 1st and 2nd a bit taller, essentially making it more of a "close ratio" box. I believe the '00 and later 2nd gear ratio is 1.85, which would mean the standard Baker is the '99 and earlier number (1.96/1.97). The "S" ratio comes real close to the '00 2nd, though, at 1.88, as well as making 1st a little taller so that transition is well matched. | ||
| Jmartz |
Thanks AAron I'm going with the "S". Which ratio set do you have in your M2? Do the thick tooth 1 - 3 make any more noise that yo can tell? | ||
| Aaron |
I believe I just have the standard gear set. All it says is "202" on the box. But the site doesn't list a part number for the "S" ratio. I can't hear any noise from the gearbox. But I have the Force pipe on it at the moment, so I really don't hear much of anything other than the exhaust system. | ||
| Jmartz |
Is your 2nd to 3rd shift any diffrent than the others? | ||
| Aaron |
Different than what others? Feels fine to me. | ||
| Jmartz |
Humnnn... good thing | ||
| Burton4551 |
This morning I get on my 99 m2 and head to work. After I get on the street I start to speed up and my Bike will not shift above second gear. I can shift between first and secnd and then it just stops. I just rode it three days ago and it was fine. I am taking it in to get a new rear tire today but just thought I would see if anyone has had this problem?? Thanks, Luke | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Luke, Have you changed your primary tensioner to the new style? Your old one may have broke. Be very careful, you may have chunks of plastic floating around in there. It's an easy fix, parts are only about $25.00 for gasket and tensioner. Brad | ||
| Burton4551 |
Just got a call from the dealer: They suggested putting the newer shift Linkage on, instead of the stock one on my 99' M2. The guy from the dealer said that is improves the way it shifts. Has anyone done this and noticed a huge difference??? Must wait untill friday to ride on the new rear tire now!! Thanks!! Luke | ||
| Blake |
Merely changing the exterior shift linkage will not fix a transmission unable to shift into 3rd gear. Did you tell them that no matter what you do, it will not shift into 3rd gear? If so, find yourself another person to talk to and report the genius who gave you the crap advice to the service manager. If he is the service manager, find another dealership. | ||
| Bomber |
My Y2K M2 has learned a new trick (approx 20K miles -- stock gearbox, 2001 linkage, ,sporttrans fluid) . . . . about 10% of the time, when starting out from a stop (generally not leaning on it real hard), it will go about 20 feet, and seem to shift from first and a quarter back to first . . . . not a great description, I know . . . .could be the dogs engaging more fully, I suppose . . . .I've tried really booting it into first, easing it into gear, and most everything in between . . .seems to make no difference . . . . does this sound familiar to anyone | ||
| Blake |
Try switching to another synthetic tranny lube, Mobil-1 or Royal Purple or whatever. Also check your primary chain tensioner. make sure it is intact and holding together. Could be worn dogs too. Hope not! | ||
| Bomber |
Blake . . . thanks for the tips . . . the chain is adjusted to spec (updated tensioner), and I"m likely switching to Mobil lube this winter . . . . . I found the problem this morning on the way to work . . . .Like every difficulty I've had with the M2 (except the rocker box gaskets, which Mr James took care of 2 weeks before HD released the metal set), the difficulty was of my own doing . To make a longer story merciful, the allen-head securing the link to the shift lever backed out ( I even remember NOT lock-tighting it the last time I messed with it, 6 months ago, as I was still messing the with ergo adjustments . . . got it right, and promptly forgot about it). The backing-out process completed itself this morning on the way to work -- showing that the gods love me, the whole thing took itself apart with the gearbox in nuetral, on a very quiet, semi-rural side street, as I was leaving an intersection, speed approx 20mph. Please don't ask why I never noticed this during any of my religiously-performed pre-flights (early ownership of British iron does form life-long habits). thank goodness for cruz tools, and a teeny tube of blue lock-tight! took the long way to work (dozens of shifts), and no problems at all (go figure, tighten all the fasteners, and the machine works properly!) | ||
| Jmartz |
bomber: My bike suffers from that disease. Aaron mentioned once it was due to "cabvities" in the dog teeth. Not much you can do about it till you open it up and smooth them out so they seat on the 1st try. | ||
| Ncbueller |
As an overall impression, would you that have the 6 speed purchase it again. If so, what is the price point? Thanks Ride Safe | ||
| Peter |
Ncbueller, What do you mean by, If so, what is the price point? Yes, I would buy one again. I think it is what they should have standard. PPiA |
