| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
Bigfan, Unless the extended warranty excludes brake disks, I don't see why it wouldn't cover a warped one. | ||
| Loki |
SuperD, The front is a Performance Machine piece | ||
| Scottcolbath |
OK, here's a new problem. Spotting on my front brake rotor. The bike had none when I bought it with 2,900 miles on the clock. Now with 5K I have managed to get it all spotty looking. To touch it, I don't feel any high spots. I do know that I have some fading when I'm riding it hard which was not there two months ago. Any ideas? Later, Scott | ||
| X1glider |
Every single 4 piston brake eqipped HD with stock rotors does this, they changed rotor material in 2000. I'm guessing the change affected Buell too. So I guess the spotting is normal, since your S3 is within the model year they made the material change. All 3 of mine look like that. I removed them, chucked them up on a lathe, and turned them pretty again with steel wool. The spotting is harmless and will not show as pitting. Just looks like crap. | ||
| X1glider |
The Michelin man finally reproduces!  | ||
| Blake |
I thought the spots on my '00 M2's front disk looked cool.  | ||
| Bomber |
I keep hopin that the spots'll get bigger, and cover the entire disk . . . Love that gun-blued look! | ||
| Scottcolbath |
Thanks for the input on the spots guys. S.C. | ||
| Nykk |
Help! can I use H-D # 3655A bolts (from the sportster carrier) on my new rotor/carrier assy? The threads (not treads) go all the way up to the bottom of the bolt head with out any radius, chamfer or straight-non-threaded section. I'll be re reading Henrik's bolt removal saga prior to wheel removal. | ||
| Blake |
If they are not identical to the originals, I'd not use them. | ||
| Aaron |
3655A is the right part number for the late model rotor- see the top of the page. There's another number too, 6570Y, not sure what the difference is. The X1 & S3 parts books list 6570Y, the M2 parts book lists 3655A, yet both have the same part numbers for the carrier/rotor and the wheels are the same too. Prolly doesn't matter, the main thing is don't use the old countersunk allen head bolts on the new carrier/rotor and don't use the new bolts on the old rotor. | ||
| Nykk |
Thanks Aaron, I forgot to look at the top of this page. I've heard about Lyndal brake pads from the ASBN group. Does anyone here have experience with Lyndal's on their new style Buell rotor? Thanks! See y'all at Bonnievill (9/18-9/23). Nykk | ||
| Good_Boy |
Errr, I experienced the similar kind of trouble with 01' M2 disk... Goodridge race pads (great and cheap, at least in France, lol). After a track day where I did my best to be, if the slowest in corners, at least the last to brake... I succeded in that. Now disk is deep blue in the center of disc track, still metallic shiny on inner and outer borders... And it squeaks. Ah, damn noise when stopping at traffic lights... Just ad the end of the braking, when rotor spins slow... skrieeeeek... I was wondering if there were somehow disk rotors (not the whole assembly, just the track) from brembo or somewhere else, that would keep the happy single disc feeling, but would tolerate the stress of french riders that don't know the difference between road and track (I gess there is that red and white paint somewher on the corners, but where...) Any ideas where I can fin 340 mm discs ? Thanks. | ||
| Noface |
Well, I guess it's time to replace the rear tire. On the way to work last nite, I picked up something right in the middle of the chicken strip. I think it was about time to get them replaced anyway. Ya'll check out this pic and tell me if this is the "wear" block. Cause if it is, it's time to replace it anyway. The tire is on an '03 Firebolt with 3.8k miles on the clock. /image G:\DCIM\100MSDCF\DSC00983.jpg I remember reading somewhere that the D207's on the Firebolt were different than the ones on the "open market", and to get them from the Buell dealer. I guess they're lighter than the others. I assume that's what the "U" is after D207 on the sidewall, and in the owners manual. Now all I gotta do is figure out how to get the wheel off the bike. I was going to pick up a FM Sat at the dealer, but it looks like I might be getting them both at the same time, except that I'll need to take the wheel with me. Thanks a bunch! Jody S. | ||
| Noface |
Lets see if I can get this right. First time I've posted a pic here. /image {G:\DCIM\100MSDCF\DSC00983.JPG} | ||
| Noface |
aw hell... I give up... sorry for the mess up! Jody | ||
| Mikej |
Jody, use the \ slash not the / slash, then follow the prompts. | ||
| Blake |
Cut and paste this into your post... \image{put whatever text you want in here} Do NOT include any path or filename, you will be prompted for that after you post the message.  | ||
| Noface |
OK, here's the tire I replaced.  I ended up replacing it with a D220. It's what they had on hand, and much cheaper. I couldn't justify the 50+ mile drive and $180+mount/balance the HD dealer wanted. Is it heavier. Yea. I haven't got the balls to drag a knee yet anyway :-) Thanx! Jody | ||
| Awprior |
Anyone know where I can find a set of D220s, a front in particular? I had a set on order, seems the front is on back order just about everywhere. If I can't find those, can someone else recommend a reasonably prices tire that gets good mileage. I also need something that's available, I'm in pretty desperate need for them. Thanks, Alex | ||
| Az_M2 |
Riding to work this morning, after stopping at an intersection, my front brake did not entirely release. When I pulled over to check it out, the brake did release. I took a look and tested it many times and everything seemed to be in order. I rode the rest of the way to work, home (lunch), work, home and all seemed to work ok. Anyone had this problem or know if this is an indication of a potentially bigger braking problem? I'm planning a 1k mile trip this weekend and I'm a little concerned. | ||
| Blake |
Az M2, If you haven't changed it recently you might want to flush the system to replenish it with new DOT-4 brake fluid. You might also want to remove the pads (very simple task) and give the calipers a good blast of aerosol brake cleaner (possible ingress of dirt between exposed piston and cylinder). Then put the pads back in and take it for a ride, working the front brake progressively harder on successive stops (Ever do a stoppie ![:]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) ). Once hot, give the lever a real HARD pull. The idea is to really stress the system to help obliterate any possible minor contaminants that might be causing stiction. | ||
| Az_M2 |
Thanks Blake, I'll clean the calipers tonight. Nope, haven't done a stoppie, yet. | ||
| Buellistic |
ATT: Buellers MAINTAINANCE HINT: Once a year remove the brake fluid from each Master Cylinder. Wipe out the insides with a CLEAN LENT FREE RAG and replace with the proper fluid. You will think that you just hoped up your brakes. In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| X1glider |
How about this: once a year, flush the brake system with fresh fluid! Dot 3 and 4 fluid isn't hydro(sorry can't recall the rest of the word) like Dot 5. I'll give you a hint: it's not hydroponic! Something else. | ||
| Xgecko |
Brakes, I'm getting to the point where I'm collecting tools and such for my impending move to Japan. How much should/does a brake bleeder cost? and where would one find such a thing?? | ||
| Sarodude |
Hygroscopic | ||
| X1glider |
Thank you, Saro. Sorry, I don't have a prize for you. Maybe a beer at Bonne if you get the cajones to tell work "Screw yous, I'm going!" | ||
| Blake |
Change the DOT 5 every year too. It doesn't absorb water like DOT 3/4, but the water accumulates and turns into a nasty sludge. | ||
| X1glider |
Yep, my purple Dot 5 is looking a little brown. As soon as my rear disc comes in from the sponsor in Iowa, the fluid change will commence. Can't help but wonder if the Buell can use the Dot 5 without problems. I don't believe it is as caustic as Dot 3 or 4, so It shouldn't be an issue with seals. I don't know why they don't use DOt 5 in the first place. It'll take the heat better too. |
