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Lanretsr
Posted on Saturday, June 21, 2008 - 01:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Is is possible to use a heated narrow band oxygen sensor in the bikes? If so does anyone have a part number?
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Srwitt
Posted on Saturday, June 21, 2008 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If you are just looking for data logging for tuning and such wouldnt you want a wide band setup?
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Lanretsr
Posted on Saturday, June 21, 2008 - 01:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I really just wanted to see if the heated one would make any difference. Instead of having the exhaust heat the sensor I figured the heated sensor would be better initially at start up or when idling or at low speeds when the unheated o2 sensor might not be heated to 600 degrees. Maybe I should just go wide band and kill two birds with one stone. Who makes a controler and are there any ill affects?
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Pashlipops
Posted on Sunday, June 22, 2008 - 07:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Nothing like a bit of cross forum fertilisation ;o)

http://www.ukbeg.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file= viewtopic&t=26872
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Cowtown
Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 02:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Standard Motor Products SG-27
You can use a O2 connector off a 90-91 Thunderbird to wire it to the bike, this way you have 1 connection instead of 4.
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Lanretsr
Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Actually after thinking about it I think the heated narrow band oxygen sensor would only be marginally better at best and I do eventually want to go wide band because I'm planning to do a big bore kit. I think the best way to go would be to run front and rear wide band sensors to map both cylinders. Anyone do this before? I know the computer can only handle one and its have to be narrow band but someone out there must make some kind of controller, right?

(Message edited by lanretsr on June 24, 2008)
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Cowtown
Posted on Wednesday, June 25, 2008 - 02:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Since you only have 1 throttle body, wouldn't you just have to relocate the O2 sensor to where the headers collect?
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Ohio_xb12
Posted on Wednesday, June 25, 2008 - 02:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"Since you only have 1 throttle body, wouldn't you just have to relocate the O2 sensor to where the headers collect?"

That would give you an accurate measurement of your A/F ratio, but if one cylinder was extremely lean and one extremely rich they would meet in the middle and all would look peachy.The bike would run like absolute crap but you get the picture.
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Cowtown
Posted on Wednesday, June 25, 2008 - 03:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have no experience here, but can someone explain how you can adjust the A/F ratio to 1 cylinder on a V-twin bike with a single throttle body?
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Lanretsr
Posted on Wednesday, June 25, 2008 - 06:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It might have only one throttle body but it still have two fuel injectors. The o2 sensor is in the rear pipe and detects the a/f ratio and adjusts it to stoich. The front cylinder fuel map is based off the rear with with a percentage of decrease since it runs cooler. The only difference is the amount of time the fuel injector actually is opened thus give you either more or less fuel. at least that is my understanding
Just read this http://xoptiinside.com/BuellTuningGuideEnglish.pdf
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Petebueller
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2008 - 04:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bombardier fitted a 4 wire narrow band preheated O2 sensor to his bike and he found that it stopped the cold and cranky issues.

The standard O2 sensor has a narrow band edge trigger that is temperature independent except when dead cold. The ECM checks the head temperature before taking the O2 sensor into account.

What if the O2 sensor is still too cold for an accurate reading when the head temp sensor says the bike is warm enough? This may be what is happening. I find that cold running issues occur when the bike is warming up and not when warm or dead cold.

The other possibility is that the standard O2 sensor is a single wire sensor with earth through the headers. The 4 wire narrow band sensors have a dedicated earth which may give better feedback.
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Cowtown
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2008 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Got it, 2 fuell injectors, thanks.

I installed a heated O2 sensor on my 2001 X1. The X1 took forever to warm up and the heated O2 sensor made it possible to operate much sooner.
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Lanretsr
Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2008 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Not sure if you guys are interested or not but I did end up fitting a heated universal O2 sensor to the bike. It does seem like it helps, I no longer get overtaken by the fuel in the exhaust gas when I start it in the garage. It also doesn't seem to skip or backfire anymore although it does still pop under deceleration, but I don't really think that's because of the O2. I'm not going to say it runs cooler or anything but I haven't heard my bike pinging recently. I'm still waiting to get my tune back from mike though so I'm sure thats going to help that much more. If anyone wants the part number on the sensor let me know and I'll try to find it.
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