| Author | Message | ||
     Buellistic |
ATT:Blake Per your request: THE GLUE Buy it at the local Model Airplane Hobby Store. Called "MAXI-CURE" ,extra thick(10-15 sec)for PLASTIUCS & hardwoods. If it has "CYANOACRYLATE" on the container you will have found the right stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!! I used it to seal the GROMMET that was leaking back in the oil tank(LET IT SET OVER NIGHT) and then I pushed the 90 degree fitting back in.... I think this stuff is so good that if you oil tank had a crack in that if cleaned properly it would seal it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Jasons1 |
I'll start out by saying that I don't know much of anything about oils or lubricants, so any help you could give me would be appreciated. My '96 S1 has just over 30,000 miles on it, and I'm considering switching both the primary fluid and motor oil over to synthetics. I have been using the typical HD fluids all along, but am hoping that the switch will smooth out the shifting, and maybe help with engine longevity. Do any of you forsee any problems with this change? And what brand/type of oil and primary fluid do you recommend? Sorry if this question is a bit elementary for you all, but I'm just looking for a little, honest help from some guys who have been there, and done that. Thanks! | ||
| Prof_Stack |
My Blast used 10 ounces of oil (Mobil 1 15W/50) over a 1400 mile trip last week. Most of the riding was in 80+ degree conditions. About 1/3 of it was over 90 degrees. I changed to synthetic before the trip when the bike had 7,000 miles on it. No question the Blast runs better w/ synthetic oil. | ||
| Ara |
I've got 25K miles on my '97 S3, the vast majority of it on Mobil 1 15W/50 automotive oil. No problems. Next oil change I'm going to go to Mobil 1 gear oil vice Sport Trans. Russ | ||
| Reepicheep |
Just came back from my local autozone, and they had a new (for them) synthetic. A Valvoline 20w50 for around $4.50 a quart... They had the mobil 1 Vtwin for $9 per quart, I bought the valvoline thanks. Also got an STP filter they had in stock that was made for the Sportster. Don't know if I will use it or not... anybody know anything about these filters? I could not remember the motorcraft part number that crosses over or I would have tried that. I will let everyone know if I find anything interesting, but I think it's just a an unremarkable and reasonably priced full synthetic with the right viscosity... which is why I got it... Bill | ||
| Jasons1 |
Do you guys forsee any problems with me switching to synthetics after running conventional for so long (30,000 miles)??? Thanks. - Jason | ||
| Andrew |
Jason, IMO just make the change to synth oil and a new filter. Make your first post Synth oil change at 2000 miles and then you'll be set. I've been running Mobil 1 15-50 @ 3000 mile intervals. I might run longer between changes, haven't decided yet. Oil's cheap compared to engine work. | ||
| Blake |
Jason, No problem. It's just oil.  I generally let mine go ~5000 miles between oil/filter changes. | ||
| Pilk |
FL-1A ford filter. 3 quarts Mobil 1 20W50 28oz Mobil 1 75w90 every 3000 mi, zero oil related failure. Pilkjustbackfrom3100mitriptosouthfloridaontheX-1 | ||
| Shawnm |
I've got 900 miles on my Blast, I changed the oil at 500 miles, using Harley oil, and I am scheduled for a 1000 mile service on sat. Problem is when I changed the oil the level was a bit above the fill line- not much at all so I left it alone, at the advice of a neighbor... Anyway today I noticed a little oil had seeped out of my airbox, it got on the belt cover but it was just a little film. I took off the air box cover and cleaned everything up- there is a small amount of oil stain on the filter itself. I was wondering if this is something I should worry about- and if it is something the dealer will hassle me for? Thanks in advance anyone who might help me with a beginner problem!! | ||
| Blake |
Shawn, No worries concerning the oil on the filter. Your neighbor however steered you wrong on the oil level issue. The oil level should not be allowed to exceed the full mark on your dipstick. Excess oil, as you have discovered, usually gets expelled through the crankcase breather which exhausts into the airbox. It is important also that you check the oil level only after the engine is warm and immediately after shutting it off. For your reference, the low mark on your dipstick is only a half quart or possibly less below 100% full. | ||
| Xgecko |
Another worry concerning too much oil is that it will often cause too much oil pressure. It has to go somewhere...if you are lucky it blows into the airbow if you are unlucky you can blow out a seal/gasket (Rocker box or Head Gasket) | ||
| Shawnm |
Thanks both of you for the advice, I'll be careful from now on about the level. I do light maintenance (oil changes, break lights and etc.) on heavy equipment at work- I need to be careful about not letting the tolerances of the big stuff let me get lazy about the bike... | ||
| Shawnm |
Does anyone ever use an oil additive such as STP or Slick 50? | ||
| Ara |
Uh-oh. I smell an oncoming oil additive thread coming on.... (Stick with a good quality high viscosity oil, Shawn, and leave the lubrication chemistry to the guys with the impressive chemical engineering degrees, the zoot lab coats, and the vastly expensive laboratories. A lot of us here swear by Mobil 1 synthetic oil, either automotive or the special (and more costly) motorcycle specific stuff.) Russ | ||
| Pilk |
Shawn, NO I dont use any snake oils or stp in my bike. Use to use STP in an old worn out small block chevy, kept it from Knockin so bad, probably coulld have used 140 weight gear oil with the same effect. Only Mobil1 in my bike or truck. zero additives. With that in mind I have had VERY good results, the 79 F-150 I just got rid of had over 400,000 miles on it, no rebuilds, at about 210,000 I thought I'd try Slick 50 in it, way bad idea, it began using oil to the tune of 3 quarts in that 7500mi. took 4 more oil changes of no additives to go back to the consumption that I was use to, about 1/2 qaurt same miles. Just my opinion of course. Pilk | ||
| Shawnm |
thanks guys, I'll leave it alone, just wondering... | ||
| Blake |
Slick 50 is a total scam and will cause your exhaust system to rot to pieces. Don't use it in any engine you care about. | ||
| Pilk |
Come to think of it, I did have to r&r my muffler not long after the slick 50 trial.HMMMMM. Pilk | ||
| Blake |
You, me, Hans, my buddy Keith, and millions of other trusting rubes. If I EVER meet the huckster who put that crap on the market, he's gonna share my pain. Sure taught me a lesson. | ||
| Hootowl |
I went through two exhaust systems on my truck in two years. It never occured to me that it was the slick50. | ||
| X1glider |
When I was a tractor/trailer wrench, we had an oil rep come in for a seminar. When inquired upon, he told us the Slick 50 particles aren't ground fine enough to pass thru a 30 micron filter. | ||
| Redstripe |
As a reaction to Jason s1, As of lately I use Red Line in the primary. Shifting has improved. The oil is also said to be "shockproof", which could come in handy seen the somewhat "agricultural" quality gearbox of the x1. Or any Buell for that matter. Won't relieve You of some false neutrals, though. Though most ill-shifting is in between first and second. Probably the new gearshift-linkage should improve on that, yet I -strangely enough- like the selfmade-esque linkage it has had from new. That's a 2000 Red Racing Stripe we're talking of. In a couple of weeks I'll switch to Red-Line for the motor itself too. However, the bike has new pistons and cilinders, and the manufacturer advises use of Red Line from 3.000 miles. It'll be interesting to see what reaction the use of this full-synthetic has on "oil-consumption". I'll keep You posted on that, Jilles. | ||
| Pilk |
Jilles, you might check in the archives, on the shockproof heavy, as there have been some problems with the clutch in bikes that have that oil in them. Pilk | ||
| Blake |
Yep, stay away from the heavy shockproof crud. It's been reported to gunk up the stator and clutch to the point of failure. | ||
| Hootowl |
I'll vouch for that... | ||
| Redstripe |
I sure hope there's a difference between shockproof and heavy shockproof then? All the dutch Buell motorheads are using the same type I've got in the primary for supposed better performance. PPIA, Grizz, Stoef etc. all use the same stuff, obviously without complaints-still? J. | ||
| Peter |
Jilles, I changed a while ago to Redline's 75W-90 oil. If you had looked the other day when we were at Charley's, you would have seen it written on the side of the container . PPiA | ||
| Blake |
Is anyone besides me now a little suspect as to Redline's credibility? Haven't they been touting their "Heavy Shockproof" for use in HD/Buell transmissions? Now we find out that it is a form of liquid sabotage. I've always had a hard time believing all the infomercial type of hype from vendors like Redline, Amsoil, Royal Purple and the like. The recent revelations concerning Heavy Shockproof only make me more wary. I think I'll stick with Mobil-1 for now. (Message edited by blake on August 18, 2009) | ||
| Hootowl |
From what I've read, the shockproof has solids suspended in it. They provide the "shock proof", acting as a cushion between the parts. It made the trans shift great. Quiet too. Some may feel this is not correct, but I found that the shockproof tends to get water fouled quite easily, possibly due to reduced operating temperatures. I fried a stator recently, and the old unit was heavily caked with foul brown gunk, as was the inside of the entire primary housing. I am running the HD sportrans now, and I have changed it twice since draining the redline and wiping out the primary. The last time I changed it (every 500 miles, just for flushing purposes) there was barely a hint of red/brown, so I think one more change should do it. I am sold on redline products, but I won't be using the shockproof anymore. I will be changing to their 75W90. This is the blurb from their website about the shockproof line: SHOCKPROOFTM GEAR OIL - recommended for heavily -loaded racing differentials and transmissions which see shock-loading. ShockProof contains a unique solid dispersion which cushions gear teeth to help prevent tooth breakage and allows the use of lower viscosities. Available as SuperLight, LightWeight, and Heavy grades. Probably great for transmissions that do not contain stators and clutches within the oiled area. Footnote, The HD sportrans pours like water compared to the shockproof. Not sure if I like that, but since HD won't release the specs on it, I can't really make any judgments about its actual properties. Not to mention that it is specifically called for in the service manual, whereas the engine oil is not. |
