| Author | Message | ||
     Rocketman |
Fog, did you say that you fitted an HSR 42, then your problems started a week later ? If so check your kill switch. Me thinks you have disturbed the kill swich connections inside the throttle grip \ switch housing whilst 'playing' with the throttle cables. I had similar problems with my kill switch. The quality of the switch unit isn't that great but a good clean and lube might be all that's required. Keep the cables well lubed too. I had one of the outers seize in the adjuster and I couldn't free it off no matter what. In the end I bought new cables. Pour lots of oil down them before you fit them. Good luck ! Rocket | ||
| Freyke |
New Dyno Run... I've also posted in the Dyno section of the KV...  It was very hot and humid out at the time of this Dyno Run... It was also a $30.00 special. (all you got was the peak HP and no torque trace).. The fella did show me the torque trace (Max. 87ftlbs) but I do not recall the RPM it occured at... My bike is pretty mild as far as mods go... click on profile to the left... Can anybody correct this for a 72 degree day @ 30% humudidty... this dyno run was also done on 92 Octane unleaded at approx 20Ft. MSL... kk//kef | ||
| Scottcolbath |
> Scott, are you trying to start it with the > throttle closed? > Have you tried cracking the throttle open a bit > when you crank it? worth a shot. Tried it Jose. Nothing. S.C. | ||
| Mikej |
"It is in reality a tip sensor." I'm a little late to the show on this one, but when my '00 M2 got humpended by that pickup last summer and was laying on it's right side sort of barely still running, the kill switch I hit is what shut it off, not any tip sensor. If my M2 has a tip over sensor I guess it doesn't work when the bike gets bodyslammed to the asphault. YMMV. ps, it's all better now. and "AS" is about to get a formal nasty-gram in the mail. Should be both fun and interesting to hear their response. pps, anyone have any suggestions on setting up a non-sueable spoof site on the web? Just planning ahead, or maybe getting ready for a comedy standup routine like another guy here is doing. | ||
| Blake |
Freyke, Your plot shows SAE HP, so it is already corrected. The 87 FT-LB torque you were told does not add up. You can calculate the engine torque (T) by simply reading HP and dividing it by the corresponding RPM then multiplying that result by 5252 (T=HP/RPM*5252). For example, at 3500 rpm you have about 50 HP, the engine torque is then... Or at 6300 rpm you have about 82 HP so torque there is... And of course at 5252 rpm the torque equals the HP; your HP plot shows about 67 HP at 5252 rpm. I'd be skeptical of any dyno operator that does not provid a torque plot along with the HP plot. He measured your rpm and therefore already had the torque available to include in your plot. He simply chose not to plot it. | ||
| Freyke |
Blake.. Cool.... yes he did have the plot of the torque curve... but that was only available on the $50.00 dyno run; he did flash it (t)up briefly and qouted the 87ftlbs... This was a mobile unit that was setup on a Sunday afternoon at the local bike hangout... I did it more or less as a hoot... I thought that SAE just ment that the measurment was taken at the rear wheel vice any other atmospheric/ambiant conditions... the fellow running the dyno claimed that the current conditions knoked most of the bikes down about 8HP... Oh well... I'm new to the dyno thing... kk//kef | ||
| Danny |
Apparently, so is the dyno operator. If the Dyno is set up right, it will take into account the ambient conditions and correct your readings accordingly. Interesting how two clicks on a mouse cost twenty extra dollars. Danny 95 S2 02 V-Strom Parts & Sales; Modesto Ducati & Buell General Gopher/Tech service; Two Wheel Performance mobile m/c dyno | ||
| Robr |
Scott, No need to buy an LED type tool, a twelve volt test light works fine. I made one by soldering two stiff peices of wire to a brake light bulb. Just unplug the injector, plug the test light in and turn the engine over, the light should flash rapidly. Rob. | ||
| Blake |
Freyke, Yeah, what Danny said. That dyno operator was either mistaken, ignorant about dyno operations, or a huckster. The 87 FT-LBs is too far off. An 87 FT-LB engine would be a VERY strong highly modified/tuned Buell engine that would probably pull close to or better than 95 to 100 RWHP. | ||
| Freyke |
Ok...Blake/All.. I took Blakes info above and filled in the blanks w/my excel... BTW peak T was about 75 FTlbs... as Blake had pointed out...  | ||
| Ocbueller |
JOsé, Congrats on the SV. Take care of a few items and it should serve you well. Glad you chose to go to Dover instead of going home,that would have been pushing it. I would have hung out longer but was fading out, those 4am wake ups will do that to you. Glad to hear the Buell lives still. Maybe if you start carrying a spare stator and a rolling Snap-On box with you. Okay, now on to that DCBRAG outing to Ocean City. Bring it on, I'll be happy to accommodate. SteveH | ||
| Tat |
Hello Again From American Sport Bike, Just wanted to let you in on a new product list that we've been working on for the past few weeks. We've added quite a few items to our family of parts that can be found on our website under "new parts." One of the most recent additons is a Stainless Steel Oil Filter. This filter is reusable and cleanable and will last as long as your bike (if not longer). These Stainless Steel Filters perform well from cold start up through extreme heat without loss of protection. It is installed with a super strength nickel plated rare earth magnet in the top for magnetic pre-filtering of the oil. Fits Buells, Sportsters, Big Twins (and off-road bikes). Part # 6090 for $119.95, never buy another oil filter again. We've also added Neoprene Tank and Front Fender Covers for the Tube-Frame Buells, Blasts, Firebolts and V-Rods. 3-4mm. thick, these covers are great for protecting your Carbon Fiber and your Paint when wrenching on the bike or just storing it. Prices range from $50.00 to $60.00 Also, for the Firebolt-more Carbon Fiber!!! The list now inlcudes: Front Fender, Rear Fender, Heel Guards, Oil Cooler Scoop, and Ram Air Intake. These items should be available in 30-45 days, call and reserve yours today. We're working out the details of our annual Customer Appreciation Day/BBQ. Plan on late September or early October. More news will follow. | ||
| Buellzebub |
sport bike west was a gas, all 6 buells that showed up ran all weekend (sept one guy from the north with fuellie problems, wouldn't run well under 4k when hot). southern B.C. roads rock... | ||
| Fogcity |
Rocket - Glad to see you back. As far as the 42 installation, I didn't do it - HD shop did. As far as I know, the carbs are now made so you don't have to change any cables. However, that don't really mean anything, I don't know what was done; I'll certainly clean the kill switch as you suggested. Cheers. (As another note, it's funny how I've got this frustrating problem and I have babied this bike since new in an effort to avoid these kind of things. When it's cured, I'm going to quit being such a pussy and ride the piss out of it, smearing the line between abusive and fun and no longer let my posessions rule me - amen). | ||
| Birdsong |
I purchased a Givi 755 windscreen, and I am wanting to paint it the same color as the little screen I took off. It is Volcano Grey. Does anyone know where I can find a Paint code to take to the paint shop? | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Birdsong, Click Here | ||
| Scottcolbath |
Robr, The 12 V test light may fry the ECM due to its low resistance. BTW I made a decision. The bike is being picked up by Hacienda H-D tomorrow morning. I've got an extended warranty and the FI system is covered. I hate letting someone else work on my bikes, but I may as well take advantage of the warranty while I can. I decided that I'd try out Hacienda, and a Buell specialist they have there who I know to be competent. My biggest concern is the weenies who run the service dept. Hopefully they will get this right. Later, Scott | ||
| Birdsong |
Thanks Jose'...I would assume that the 2001 and 2002 would be the same color? | ||
| Captpete |
<<When it's cured, I'm going to quit being such a pussy and ride the piss out of it, smearing the line between abusive and fun and no longer let my posessions rule me - amen).>> Sounds to me like you're backin' away from that "Stay Clam" thing a little bit, Fog. Why, I wouldn't even be surprised to hear you've taken an occasional peek at that, well... that TV show you were talkin' about.  : And you ain't payin' attention.  Suggested you check that kill switch a month ago. They can be real parsnicikedy when they start acting up. It might not be your problem, but it's an easy fix if it is. | ||
| Scottcolbath |
Also, more data to pass on regarding my FI problem from a friend: =============================================== Did you check *all* of your fuses??? That's the first step (see below for the reason why). Do you have a Harbor Freight store near you? They sell a set of "Noid Lights". A noid light is a special little light with really high resistance in it, that you test for injector pulse with. DO NOT USE A REGULAR 12v. TEST LIGHT to check the injectors with. It *will* (no "might" about it) blow your ECM out if you use a 12v. test lamp on the EFI/ECM circuits. Since the noid light has real high resistance it only allows a very small amount of amperage through it, and that's why a 12v. test lamp will blow your ECM. Too little resistance allows too much amperage through the circuit, which in turn blows the transistors that drive the injectors (called "Quad Drivers" . Why I say to check ALL of your fuses first: Your injectors have one wire that is powered up constantly through a fused circuit (switched via the ignition switch). The ECM simply supplies a ground to the injector to turn it on, and then breaks the ground/circuit to turn it back off (its "natural" position, off/closed). So you MUST have 12v to one of the wires going to the injector plug with the key on. But DO NOT use a 12v. test lamp to check it for power!!! It may get power through the ECM (most don't, *some* do). Do you have a decent DVOM? You can use the DC volts mode on a DVOM to check your injector plug for a hot wire. That's half the battle. There aren't too many DVOM's that have a fast enough refresh rate (on the LCD screen) to show you the injector pulse, which is measure in milliseconds* (ThousandTHS of a second).. You can find noid lights at most *good* auto parts stores. There are different noid lights for different systems. The only difference in them is the connector plug on them. I don't know if the Buell uses the Delphi ESPFI but if it does my bet is that the Buell plug/connector will be the same as the GM injector. If not, it's likely the "generic" Bosch design. If you find a noid light for sale check the plug end real close to match your Buell injector plug. Next will be to check the power AND the groundS (plural, not singular) to/on the ECM. =============================================== I think he said something about NOT using a 12V test light =8^) Later, Scott | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Steve, Thanks, that SV is pretty amazing for the price. Definetly need to head out your way with the rest of DCBRAG after the "season" is over in Ocean City, Maryland. Less tourists to mess up the turn exits  Too bad Ocean City bike week will be the same weekend as Deals Gap, it sounds like it should be fun especially with the addition of Battletrax. | ||
| Josh |
It's the GM "PFI" noid light. Mine shows p/n 25143, brand "OEM." I think it cost $2 and also works on my 95 Pontiac Firebird Formula's LT1. I have the bosch one as well, it's too small. If you have small hands you can get the noid on w/o removing the tank. Josh | ||
| Bull |
Another quick question: Since I'm going to replace the front engine mount on my M2 with one for an X1.. I thought I'd go "all the way" and include the upper tie-rod (standard on X1, optional on M2). Does anyone know how to adjust the little bugger? With or without any preload? Anyway, thanks a lot in advance ;-) /Jonas | ||
| 1m9 |
Has anyone mounted up one of those Givi 760's? I have a 2000 M2 and was considering one if its not too much of a hassel, thanks | ||
| Robr |
Scott, I got the 12V test light proceedure out of the 1999 X1 service manual, and no, it didn't blow my ECM. I agree with Rocket though, it sounds like a kill switch problem. Check the continuity of the hot wire to the coil(this is the wire that goes to the kill switch), while wiggging the wire at all connections. Back to the service manual, have you tried the troubleshooting flow charts? They are set up quite logically if you don't skip any of the steps. Rob. | ||
| Blake |
Scott, Do you know what the difference in resistance is between a test light and a "noid" light?  | ||
| Scottcolbath |
Robr writes: > I got the 12V test light proceedure out of the > 1999 X1 service manual, and no, it didn't blow > my ECM. Interesting. I wonder why my bud says it's a bad thing to do. > I agree with Rocket though, it sounds like a > kill switch problem. Check the continuity of > the hot wire to the coil(this is the wire that > goes to the kill switch), while wiggging the > wire at all connections. This implies that the kill switch would stop the flow of gas and has nothing to do with spark. Is that right? I do have spark. I don't have gas. Maybe that's a good thing =8^) > Back to the service manual, have you tried the > troubleshooting flow charts? They are set up > quite logically if you don't skip any of the > steps. My Buell shop manual has lots on how to troubleshoot if you have a scanalyzer or a breakout box. I couldn't find much of anything that would help without these tools. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. Blake writes: > Scott, Do you know what the difference in > resistance is between a test light and a "noid" > light? I'm not sure. I do know that a test light is just about zero resistance. Can't say on the Noid. S.C. | ||
| Mrx |
Can anyone tell me who makes the ALUMINUM X1 instrument panel that LEVELS THE GAUGES OUT, & RELOCATION OF THE IGNITION is required? I know I've seen one somewhere, ... but now I can't find it. Thanks, -Mr.X | ||
| Usroute66 |
Jose, what's up with your bike?...I've been away for few days. Jumped on my S3T on Sunday to find a dead battery. Being that the bike is over 2 years old, that's not too bad. Charged it up, and drove it over to Glendale Buell where they changed it out in 1/2 hour. Now, how many shops in your area are open on Sunday!? | ||
| Blake |
Scott, A light bulb has "zero resistance"?? Now I've heard everything. Sounds like you could benefit from a quick lesson in electrical circuits... A light bulb designed to consume a power (P) of 3 W at a voltage (V) of 12V is running a current (I) of 0.25 A (This is from the equations stating that P = VI and thus that I = P/V). Since Ohm's law states simply that V=IR we can easily rearrange to find that R=V/I. The resistance (R) of that 3W 12V bulb would then be... R = V/I = 12/0.25 = 48 W Now 1/4 amp is a lot of current compared to what a 0.3 watt bulb would pull. A 0.3 watt bulb, probably on the order of the "noid" light to which you refer might pull only 1/10th the current (0.025 amps) while having 10 times the resistance (480 ohms). So your point is very valid, a low resistance bulb might very well have overloaded the circuit. But a light bulb certainly has resistance.  Every light bulb filament is simply a resistor that gets so hot it glows while managing to hold itself together. |
