| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Let me know of you want to make 2?! | ||
| Aaomy |
fast1075 please take measurements and a list of supplies and where to get them from.. i will be following this closely.. | ||
| Fast1075 |
I will be getting with an engineer buddy for his help in selection of the isolation material.. | ||
| Swampy |
Me too | ||
| Reuel |
We are talking the rubber part, right? If so, I want in on this. | ||
| Ezblast |
Dito | ||
| Fast1075 |
The service manager at the Buell shop said they have a Blast customer with a bike that has been eating front mounts...he said they installed a limiter made by Drag Specialties...it looks like a bracket that connects to the center mount bolt and the frame...there is precious little info in the D.S catalog so I don't know if it is intended to fit a Blast frame... Anyways, I have discovered a flaw in my thinking for the original concept...it won't tear apart, but may be too rigid in the horizontal plane...don't want to trade mount life for horrible vibes and possible frame cracking...maybe a floating limiter..or a vertical link..still real early...the floating limiter would be crazy easy. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"may be too rigid in the horizontal plane"too rigid is why I wanted one-for racing and by horizontal plane do you mean side to side? I'll definitely look into the DS 'limiter'. Disclaimer: anytime on an HD/Buell product you stiffen or solid mount something that was originally rubber mounted you risk cracking any related or unrelated parts! | ||
| Fast1075 |
The part number for the Drag Specialties limiter is DS243535 but it looks to me like it would make the mount completely rigid...(the picture of the mount does not give any real details)... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I dont see it as rigid mounting, just a limiter, along the lines of what I was planning. Definitely worthwhile because with the addition of that 'bracket' it could be stiffened further with a little tweakage. Good info Fast! | ||
| Bhawk |
Yo Blasters S'up Hope everbody's thumpin strong. Got a few Q's.Had a isolater bolt shear on me,the left one and am wondering what i got to drop to get a drill in there to EZ out this thing. Also is it really necessary to replace the good bolt or just a good safe practice? I think i remember someone having a prob with iso bolts breaking,and am wondering if this is a problem with some blasts or what.......? Any info on this new "Venture" down Blasters Lane would be appreciated. S'Good to see ya out there Gear. Thump Strong Thump Long Peace | ||
| Fast1075 |
I was thinking of using a "washer" made of teflon, or HDPE or maybe Delrin that would sit on top of the mount's center bolt, under a thicker than the existing failsafe washer...this would limit vertical downward travel without limiting upwards or lateral travel...just make the "washer" the exact thickness of the amount of space between the rubber mount top and the bottom of the failsafe washer... | ||
| Bthumper |
Alright newbie here. Well my do not remove bracket broke and I ordered a new one. Come to find out the hard to get to bolt is sheared off. Never used an easy out before. Should I try that or how hard is it to take the cyl head off? | ||
| Reuel |
EZ Out works! I drilled out the left side one while it was in place. Make sure you order the bolt by its part number from the Buell parts catalog. If you just go with a grade 8 (HD favorite) it will break again. If you go with something softer than grade 8, it will break later. The manual says to not reuse the bolts. This is a safe practice measure. I've put mine in 3 times now, and it's still fine. | ||
| Swampy |
I have had alotof the bolts break. I found it was easier to support the front and remove the forks to give you room to get in and drill. Be very careful to get the drill started on-center and dirll on center the entire time. Be careful not to break the Easyout in the head. Use new factory bolts and assemble acording to the specs. Check the bolt holes for being too large, screw an new bolt into the hole ,(don't bottom out) and check for play. That was the problem with both My Blasts. I then Helicoiled both holes by screwing a half of a Helicoil into the bottom of the hole and screwing a full one ontop of the half one(measure, I think it was a half) I used Hi Temp Hi Strength Locktite on the Helicoils and used the same on the factory bolts. I have not had a problem yet! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"Be careful not to break the Easyout in the head."VERY IMPORTANT! EZ-outs are very hard, you break one, you aint gonna drill it out. I consider EZ-outs the last bastion of hope for the desperate. Avoid them. My 2 cents! Some Blasts seem to go through engine mount bolts, dont know why. Buellboy492has gone through many. I've reused the bolts and never had a problem.  Do take a close look at all the other mounts/tiebars to be sure they are okay. "assemble according to the specs." Dont half ass it. Follow the manual procedure-no shortcuts! Pulling the front forks (just drop the tubes out from the tree) to gain good access is an excellent idea (Swampy's got many). 2 more cents! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Fast: Thats what I figured on doing. Combine the with the DS limiter and it could be a really effective set up. (I have seen race Blasts with notches in the frame from the engine moving- some of those boys ride hard!) I've got an extra rear mount just for the purpose of stiffening it up. Once you stiffen up the front, you'll put more on the rear mount. | ||
| Jlnance |
Come to find out the hard to get to bolt is sheared off. Never used an easy out before. Should I try that or how hard is it to take the cyl head off? Well, you're gonna have to use the ez-out whether you take the cyl head off or not. It would certainly be easier to use the ez-out with the head off. You could use a drill press to drill the pilot holes for example. But then you have to replace the head gasket and maybe the rocker box gasket, so your trading work in one place for work in another. If you can get a drill in there w/o taking the head off, I'd try that first. BTW, if you have a left hand drill bit, you may be able to drill the bolt out w/o having to use an ez-out. The can be hard to find though. Finally, if you screw this up, don't despair: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/171 43/357905.html?1208452270 | ||
| Bthumper |
Well, I know what I will be doing Saturday. I am going to try an eazy out first. Keep your fingers crossed!!!! I have the factory replacement bolts and washers. I have read with loctite and without loctite. What do you think??? The bolts have the yellow paste already on them. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Just for the sake of information...if you can't get the bolt out and you don't totally foul up the head in the process...there is still a way to get it out...a VERY well equipped machine shop will have a device called an EDM. it will "burn" for lack of a better word the offending fastener out of the hole with no damage to the part...in a worst case scenario...where the hole is messed up bad..it can be welded up, remachined and retapped...if it comes to that I can recommend a BadWeb vendor...CycleRama in Florida. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The yellow paste is Loctite. If you use your own Loctite, clean off the yellow paste. Either is fine, just Follow The Repair Manual Procedure. | ||
| Jlnance |
I have read with loctite and without loctite. What do you think??? The bolts have the yellow paste already on them. What Gearhead said. I believe the 2000 model year Blasts did not use bolts with loctite preinstalled. Later Buell changed to the current bolts which don't need extra loctite. That is why you get conflicting instructions. | ||
| Reuel |
The yellow loctite happened a few years ago. I got mine before it included loctite. Put my own blue, and it's been fine ever since. | ||
| Bthumper |
Does any one have these pages out of the service manual? I have read how to torque the two bolts going into the jug but what about the top isolator bolt? | ||
| Bthumper |
Well good news. Used a backwards drill bit and that worked great!! Thanks for the great advice and help!! | ||
| Swampy |
Make sure the bolt holes are not too large allowing a new bolt to wobble when screwed in the hole. | ||
| Reuel |
No amount of red Loctite will compensate for that wobble, either. I had an issue with one of the exhaust studs. Paid someone to get them out for me. One had to be drilled. Threads were damaged somewhat, but when I screwed the stud in, it held, but with a slight wobble. He suggested red, so I tried it. A few days later, I was installing a helicoil because of how well it did(n't) work. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Drag Specialties engine mount 'limiter'. Maybe I was the only one, but I was under the impression that the limiter included the 2 washers and the bracket. Well, it only includes the 2 washers as the bracket is a stock mounting plate on some models, although on the Blast (it looked like) it could be used as a limiter. Heck, I already got the 2 big washers and I'm not gonna spend $30+ for billet aluminum! | ||
| Ezblast |
I bought a Tubber one for a 2002 M2 - actually I bought two of each, however, all the 2007's had cracked rubber making 3 total 2007 models, I went through - two not even passing a visual inspection - the Tuber one looks pretty heavy duty - for about 20 more - its my next install, the next time one goes. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
I just replaced the front engine isolator on the Little Kids Red Blast. It took all of 30 minutes maybe, including cleaning all the oil residue from spills. The 11/16 offset wrench I found at the pawn shop really speeds things along. The stock isolator from Appleton was only $14.53 |
