| Author | Message | ||
     Theperfectcorner |
What a great resource we have here!  I have read through the archives on the Ulysses front brake pulsing issue. It appears warranty service varies significantly from dealer to dealer. While in for belt replacement (under 20k miles on the clock) on my '06 Ulysses I asked them to please note the brake pulsing when they test ride post belt replacement. My dealer refused to even look at the pulsing brake as a potential warranty item. Dealer #2 (brought in for some non-warranty service as well) inspected my pulsing front brake and states the rotor has hot spots and it needs replacement. I was told this would not be covered under warranty as it is a "wear" item. The Official Factory Service Manual does not appear to mention brake pulsing (only "chattering sound") or "hot spots" issues with the rotor. The manual does state that you should "Replace the rotor if warped or badly scored" or "if minimum thickness is less than 0.18 in. (4.5 mm)" The pads and rotor are well within service limits ("wear" limits?) per the manual. I replaced my original front D616 Dunlop before it was necessary at 19,372 miles (since I was changing the rear might as well change the front). My guess is that 19,372, with about 2,500 life left, is not a front tire mileage number often seen by those with a habit of doing stoppies or abusing their front brake. The front brake started pulsing around 15K miles. My Ulysses is inside its 2 year unlimited mileage warranty. If the rotor is a wear item I would agree it should not be covered under warranty. What I am wondering is, if an owner is easy on their front brake, should a Ulysses owner expect to replace the within thickness spec, non-warped, non-abused front rotor more often than the front tire as a "wear" item? | ||
| Etennuly |
Skip down a few threads to "08 Uly Rotor Problem". It is an amazing recovery from a simple but often miss-diagnosed problem. Technically it is also a wear problem. If they did warranty it they can only put the original pads back on and the issue will reappear at some point. Lyndall golds. The solution. | ||
| Theperfectcorner |
Etennuly - Technically it is also a wear problem. I tend to agree on the "also a wear problem". I am still not clear on what circumstances would permit a rotor to "wear out", while within thickness and warp specs, well before the original tire is used up. I already have the Lyndall Gold+ pads from American Sport Bike and if the dealer replaces the rotor under warranty the new pads would be applied upon arrival home. (Message edited by theperfectcorner on June 10, 2008) | ||
| Etennuly |
You likely won't need a new rotor if you install the new Lyndall pads and break them in properly. There is literally nothing wrong with the rotor. The pads are building up gases that do not allow the pad to evenly brake when the rotor gets hot. Try the Lyndall pads on the original rotor, brake them in, and you will be amazed at how the old pads could have acted like that. Loucksgl was so amazed that it actually fixed his bike that he rode around like he was stunned for a couple of weeks, he couldn't believe it. But they work. Try giving Al at American Sport Bike a call too. Four of us in East Tennessee bought ours from him at the same time and had great non pulsing results. | ||
| Theperfectcorner |
Etennuly, Thanks for the advice. It seems to me the brake also pulses when cold so I am not sure my issue is built up gas with hot rotor. The dealer said it had hot spots on the rotor. People seem to report different results using Lyndalls without changing the rotor. I suppose I will make the rotor go/nogo decision after the dealer makes their determination on warranty coverage. The pads are sitting quietly waiting to do their magic  | ||
| Reepicheep |
I think what happens is the hot pads and hot rotor leave deposits into the steel, and that causes pulsing. It will eventually go away until you heat them up again, even with the stock pads, but it will take a few miles. The lyndalls clean it up faster, and deposit less. | ||
| Jlnance |
I do not understand why this varies so much from dealer to dealer. My personal experience with this was: Pulsing started at 6k miles and I ignored it for about the next 5k, during which time it got worse. I switched to Lyndal Gold pads, which diminished the pulsing, but it never went away. I asked the Dealership to look at the problem the next time I had it in there. They stated the rotor was exhibiting runout which was out of spec, and that they would fix it under warranty. Note that it had Lyndals on there when they told me this, and that wasn't an issue. --> In fact, the dealer told me that had I needed new pads to correct the problem, that they could put Lyndals on the bike, under warranty, and I would only have to pay for the difference between stock pad cost and Lyndal cost. <-- The new rotor fixed the pulsing problem. The pulsing came back eventually (with Lyndals on the bike.) I examined the pads and determined that they might be glazed. I immediately put a new set of pads on the bike, and this eliminated the pulsing. Good background info, even though it's from an automotive perspective: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_braked isk.shtml BTW, this all makes me appreciate the fact that I have an excellent dealer. The encouraging thing is that they have not always been excellent (though they never have been awful.) A couple years ago they decided that they wanted to step up to the plate and be known in the Buell community for good service. They have managed to pull that off. Which shows that things can get better.  | ||
| Blake |
Bill, Experience at the track suggests the opposite. Hard breaking and mucho heat eliminate the uneven deposits and pulsing. | ||
| Theperfectcorner |
The dealer called to tell me that they spoke to Buell Tech and they will replace the rotor under warranty  . Not the pads. I want to put the Lyndalls on anyway so that works well for me. I am happy that it appears the dealer decided replacing rotors more often then front tires might not be a reasonable wear issue. WARNING Non-brake content follows: They are also addressing a rear shock issue. My compression and rebound dampening remains soft and has no discernible difference at the top 4 highest settings. The softness at max setting makes the bike handle poorly in corners unlike its amazing abilities the first 10-15k miles. The dealer told me the rear shock is a wear issue and not covered under warranty. I'll search the archives for others that may have seen similar issues. Seems like some dealers see the Ulysses as just a bunch of wear items.  Does anyone know if the Buell dealer gets rewarded for keeping warranty claim$ low? Or possibly punished for too many claims? I wouldn't think that would make sense but was curious. Dropped off May27th. Anyone know how long a Ulysses can stay away from it owner before it decides to run away from the dealer? I know I miss the little guy something bad.  | ||
| Jlnance |
The dealer told me the rear shock is a wear issue and not covered under warranty. You're dealer doesn't really like to do warranty work do they. It seems like they are saying that anything on your bike which wears out is a wear item. | ||
| Theperfectcorner |
Jlnance - I am glad your dealer is taking care of you. It adds a great amount of value and satisfaction to vehicle ownership IMHO. I assume I offended my “regular” service dealer (dealer #1) at some point. They knew the rear shock was bad and made up an excuse not to replace it. Dealer #2 can't tell it's a bad shock. Anyway, I thought my DIY service except for warranty and travel repairs had contributed to offend dealer #1 (3 hour round trip). Thinking I had learned something I threw a bone to new-to-me dealer #2. I went in for paid service ($75 lube of clutch and brake cables) and figured maybe I would get more attention on warranty items. The bill came to $127 for them to lube cables and check the "non-warranty" brake and shock issues. After personally showing up last Saturday at the dealership 1.5 hour round trip) and thoroughly explaining the brake and the shock issue, the general manager said he would call HD/Buell Tuesday (this dealer is closed Monday) to see if they could do anything on the brake and shock via warranty. He spoke with them Wed. and I am supposed to get a new rotor under warranty but no new rear shock, yet. In the past HD/Buell customer service told me that warranty issues are completely up to the dealer but each time the dealer is telling me that they have to check with the mothership to see if they can warranty an item (my belt had to be called in before warranty replacement). Anyone know how the dealership warranty approval process is supposed to work and how it works in reality? Is there a better forum spot to post this question? TIA |
