Author |
Message |
Twisty_mcwrister
| Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 06:57 pm: |
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i dont know about the oil leaks but i just ordered a pair of pirelli mt75's for 120 shipped. so 260 for mounting and balancing is a little steep id say. i would get a parts book and a service manual. then you could do just about everything urself. thats what i'm doing. i'm just paying for mounting and balancing at a local "one off" bike shop. 25 bucks a wheel. |
Reuel
| Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 07:22 pm: |
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What did I just tell you? The swing arm does not leak. There's nothing to leak. Check the hoses that are involved with changing your oil. Get down there and look at it! Clean it up really well, then look for the source of the oil. Two tires, MT-75, $130, ordered, mounted, balanced by a local shop. Go to the Yellow Pages and look at local MC shops that don't have HD on the window. |
Blasst
| Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 09:11 pm: |
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Sorry Reuel, I was skimming the thread and must have missed it. What about the rebuild of the rear brakes? Is that sound true?} |
Reuel
| Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 09:26 pm: |
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First, find and fix the leak. Then, ride and see if the brake disk loses its slickness. I think the oil would eventually burn off, and the brake would work again, but I'm not sure. If you scrub the disk with dish washing soap and water, you should be able to get the oil off. The pads might be a different story. I think you can get them for $38 or less, depending on the source. What are the individual charges? Are they charging more to rebuild the brake caliper than what a new one would cost? I didn't know that oil would damage the caliper itself. So, go out to your Blast, find the leak, and go up until you find its source. If it's just hoses, drain your oil and get new hoses. That's most likely the problem. The plugs at the end of the hoses have little metal clips. If there aren't any clips, that could be related to the leak. I really want to see an itemized list of what they want to fix that would exceed the value of the bike itself. (My local idiotship figures my Blast had a value of $1200...) What's the name and location of this place? Oh--if it sounds like I'm ragging on you, I'm just kidding. (Message edited by reuel on June 03, 2008) |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 09:37 pm: |
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Concur! You'll have to remove the wheels yourself to get most of the savings. Rear brake: clean it off with Brakekleen (brake parts cleaner). It may harm the paint though.The rear brake doesnt do much on a Blast, the front brake really does all the work. To spend a whole lot of money on the rear is a waste. If its really bad you'll have to take the brake pads out and spray them. Its only a really big deal if the oil soaked brake pads cause the rear to lock up (very doubtful). If you are somewhat handy with tools follow the above advice. If you cant even drive a nail, then we'll help you not get ripped off. Taking the Blast to a Harley dealership is like taking an old VW to a Porsche dealer. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 09:39 pm: |
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PS Do Not replace the tires with Dunlops! |
Swampy
| Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 10:26 pm: |
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Blaast, Seeing you live in A2, I have sent you an email |
Blasst
| Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2008 - 01:01 am: |
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Twisty- I'm going to grab a parts and service manual as soon as I can! From what I've read here $380 sounded WAY to high for tires w/mounting and balancing. MT75's look like a winner to me. Reuel & Gearheaderiko- On my next day off I'm going to try and find out the source of the leak and go from there. Thanks for the helpful advice and info! Wish me luck! I'm not very mechanical but ask me to design you a movie theater in your house, I'm your man! The HD dealer never gave me a itemized list, just a phone call with the ridiculous news. Swampy- just sent you a email I love this website! THANKS GUYS!!! |
Reuel
| Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2008 - 07:37 am: |
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Maybe they just didn't want to deal with a Buell Blast, so they did what they could to scare you away. |
Blasst
| Posted on Monday, June 09, 2008 - 03:04 pm: |
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I think that also but I really think they wanted to sell me one of their bikes since they had like 5-6 on the showroom floor. Right now I'm waiting on a service manual in the mail then I'll start looking for that stupid oil leak. I also bought some MT75's at motorcycle superstore for $116 for fronts and rears shipped. It was the cheapest price I could find online. What do you guys think about $90 to mount and balance? Sometime this summer I have to make my way over to swampy's to give me some pointers on keeping my blast in tip top shape... Thanks again guys! |
Swampy
| Posted on Monday, June 09, 2008 - 05:49 pm: |
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Blaast, DO NOT pay $90 to mount and balance. I'm telling you "Bring it to my house and I will show you how to do it for free!" Just email me and we can make arrangements. For $90 I will come to your house and do it in your driveway! |
Blasst
| Posted on Monday, June 09, 2008 - 09:26 pm: |
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swampy...emailed.. |
Luckyduck
| Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 01:11 pm: |
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Well, got mine back from compression and leak down testing to see why it spits out so much oil. Compression was 160psi, so that is not the cause. Leakdown was good, too. They did point out the obvious that the PCV vent let oil run down the front of the engine. The service guys pretty much told me that if you drive a Buell, it will probably burn a lot of oil. Their Blasts (they own 3 between them) use less oil than mine, but are not driven nearly as hard. The advice was just to carry the quart of oil and if going more than a couple hundred miles, carry 2. I guess that is the best I can do. Thanks for the help, even if it didn't work out. Paul |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 07:26 pm: |
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Since your going to be buying oil anyway, are you at least going to try heavier oil? You've got nothing to lose (and everything to gain)! |
Reuel
| Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 07:43 pm: |
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If all is good with the piston-to-cylinder situation, I'd check the PCV situation next. |
Luckyduck
| Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 10:08 pm: |
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Hey Erik, Yes with the heavier oil. Right now we are having Biblical rains, so there isn't much riding. At least it gives me time to improvise a better (BIGGER) catch can. The new PVC parts are on order. Speaking of Biblical flooding. Yesterday I saw a barge stuck up against the bridge over the Mississippi with a crane on the tug to dig the corn out of it so they could get it off. The other 14 barges attached to the tug went on down river and had to be rounded up. They are closing some of the river to barges for a couple days. It is a good thing to live on top of a hill! Well, another line of lighting is just crashing over here, so I am going to unplug for the evening. Paul |
Xenoishly
| Posted on Friday, June 20, 2008 - 05:38 pm: |
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Hey this is an awesome forum! I just bought an 01 blaster and I have a few questions, mostly oily ones. Which oil is best for long trips across the states in the summer, when it's likely to be hotter than 70 on average, but occasionally cooler? How do I know if my crappy paper rocker gasket has been replaced? SHe's only got 4000 miles... Is it actually better to use only HD oil? Thanks |
Swampy
| Posted on Friday, June 20, 2008 - 08:42 pm: |
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Welcome to the Thumper Forum Xenoishly! I will recommend that you use a Full Synthetic 20W-50 oil. At 4000 miles, if the rocker box gaskets aren't leaking they are probably already steel. You can actually feel them if you know where to look. You can feel them under the rocker box. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, June 20, 2008 - 09:29 pm: |
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Reuel
| Posted on Friday, June 20, 2008 - 10:34 pm: |
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Mobil 1, Amsoil, and Royal Purple 20W50 (or 15W50) are at the top of a lot of people's lists for best oil. |
Bonesdl1
| Posted on Friday, June 27, 2008 - 08:36 am: |
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Hi guys, I'm getting ready to do an oil change and am going to go with something other the the overpriced HD oils. Am I reading everything correctly that I do not need to use a oil specifically made for diesel engines if I go with a quality synthetic oil? |
Reuel
| Posted on Friday, June 27, 2008 - 02:11 pm: |
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Yes! You can also go with high-quality 20W50 natural oil. (Message edited by reuel on June 27, 2008) |
Toniportray
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2008 - 03:02 pm: |
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Has anyone ever tried this SeaFoam engine cleaner that everyone is going mad about? I'm not convinced that it really does anything except make a bunch of smoke from burning the oils in the product. It supposedly removes unwanted carbon deposits from the cylinder cavity (and anywhere else you put it). Sounds like a bunch of placebo effects to me, but maybe someone here has some input about such products... |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2008 - 12:28 am: |
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I don't know - a lot of pro's recommend it for cleaning carbon off your cylinder, but a few extra doses of water can help that also - so is it any better - can't say - faster - yes. EZ |
Bitbear
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2008 - 12:46 pm: |
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I run a tank of it -- using directions on the can for correct proportion of additive to gas -- each spring when I bring my bike out of winter hibernation. I can't say I noticed any particular benefit but it certainly hasn't hurt anything. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2008 - 01:07 pm: |
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Check your oil filter mounts! Real simple to check when the filter is off: If its spins using your fingers, its loose! I dont know how common this is, but I just changed the filter and found the oil filter mount loose! Possibly a rare occurrence, but I did have a mount come completely off once attached to an over tightened filter. This filter wasnt overly tight, but who knows how many were in the first 12,000 miles before I got this Blast! The torque spec is really low so dont crank it on, 8-12 FT lbs and use blue Loctite. |
Dankno
| Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 - 12:06 pm: |
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Here's one... As far as volume of oil and location, what is the difference between a rocker box gasket that has gone south, or a "Woah, that was too much oil at once" (like 1/3 of a quart... whoops...)while topping off and now its getting blown out? It doesn't seem to bad at 45ish on the streets but at high RPM, 70-80mph on the free way, it seems to gush out. The stock intake gets coated and today I noticed that the front of the jug seems to be getting an oil shower. Any ideas... |
Berkshire
| Posted on Thursday, July 24, 2008 - 02:41 am: |
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At higher RPMs more oil is getting pumped to the head. The front leak is probably the oil return o-ring (aka "cylinder stud o-ring, 26432-76A) When you say the "intake" gets coated, do you mean the air filter/box, or the metal intake "manifold" that connects das carb & das boot to the head? The way to find a leak is to clean everything up thoroughly so there is no sign of leakage, then ride until the leak FIRST starts to show - then it will be obvious where it's coming from. |
Toniportray
| Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 03:36 pm: |
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Just a heads up to money-conscious consumers; This month CSK Auto (Checker, Kragen, etc.) has 6 quarts of Valvoline Full Synthetic Oil on rebate for $.99 a quart. I've been using this 20w50 synthetic stuff for quite a while and I really like it. The synthetic oil doesn't burn up so fast as the dino-DNA does. I despise CSK Auto for lousy customer service and bad prices (hence I'm not speaking in favor of the company or upselling), but I do like the oil rebate ads they offer occasionally. $1 a quart for full synthetic makes me aroused. Unfortunately, the limit is 6 quarts per month. Get your buddies in there though and get them to send in rebates under their name. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, August 06, 2008 - 01:10 am: |
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Valvoline-a personal favourite. Thanks for the heads up. Thats a very good deal. (I'm still using Redline though!) |
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