| Author | Message | ||
     Dtx |
Yup, I don't get any more then 29 mpg and my rear tire lasted only 2000 miles. But I pretty much thrashed it after one track day and a weekend in the Arkansas twisties. Front tire still has lots of tread on it though...  | ||
| Kttemplar |
Fresno, I am in the same boat as you. My MPG has never been above 33, usually 28/29 and I only have 4/32" of tread left on my rear tire @ 2200 miles. The 1125R manual says to change it @ 1/16" (2/32") so I am probably going to have to change it around 3000-3500 miles. I do not drive super aggressively or anything, but I do have to drive in traffic in NYC all the time. I spend most of my time in 3rd/4th gear around 4000-6000 RPM. I do have to drive in first gear a lot in traffic though, which due to the jerky operation @low RPM kinda sucks, but I have gotten pretty good at it. My bike pops sometimes when slowing down, but I just figured it was the nature of the beast. It has only stalled once since getting the re-flash. It only seems to happen when not giving it enough gas at low RPM. The bike did choke on me the other day @4500 RPM which was kinda scary, considering I was trying to get outta someones way. It took some re-thinking and a pucker factor of about 12, and I was able to get it up and going again, but I really don't want that to happen again. One of the other threads has a solenoid eliminator off e-bay. I am getting one and hoping that it will get rid of the stalling and choking problem. Mike | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I sure wish the solenoid operation was clearly defined...WTF does it really do. Maybe the shop manual will explain its function...oh wait, that is still "in progress". | ||
| Kttemplar |
Me too, but I am willing to put in this solenoid eliminator as soon as I get it. If anything goes wrong then I will just put the solenoid back in. I am hoping that it is just for EPA purposes and that by "eliminating" it I will eliminate the choking @ 4500 and possibly the stalling. I was hesitant to remove the solenoid out of the loop because people were saying that it threw some codes and that did not sound good to me. This "eliminator" is supposedly "code free". I have only had the bike stall once in the last two months. It has pretty much gone away with break-in/re-flash/training (me learning how to not stall it). Anyway, I will just "do it" and see what happens. Mike | ||
| Helicon |
Mike, please keep us informed ... I'm sure I'm not the only one interested in your results. | ||
| Smoke |
mike, i left the solenoid plugged into the harness and disconnected the cable that is hooked to the throttle. the bike thinks the solenoid is doing it's job,no codes, but it has no effect on the throttle. i too am interested in your results. tim | ||
| Thurstonbuell |
Over the weekend we had temps in the 90's , and I had the boiling , and venting fume's , burning in my thigh's , I could deal with all that...... What I had a hard time dealing with was the stall's , over and over , then she was hard to start , had to keep rev's up othwerwise everytime I would leave a traffic light , another stall as soon as I applied some throttle ,and sometimes on downshifts more stalling . And when it does stall......WOW , sounds like I just broke something , it's the worst sound you could imagine coming from your motor , this cant be good for my baby ! Was this a temperature related issue ? Have others had the same experience ? (Message edited by Thurstonbuell on June 09, 2008) | ||
| Spectrum |
It was 99 degrees here yesterday. Took several 20 minutes spirited rides. Bike ran great. I have not had any of the stalling issues I've read about here. Coolant temperature ranged from 190 to 212. The low being cruising on back country rodes and the high setting at traffic lights. Usually about 198-199 during spirited riding. | ||
| Ccryder |
We were in the mid to upper 90's over the weekend and my 25r ran fine. Two lane twisty and some in town stop and go. Yeah the 25r was hotter in town but, so was everybody else! I did get the comment about wearing the jacket and full face helmet and being so hot. I asked them if they were hot too? Guess what, they were also hot. Hmm, I would rather sweat a little than bleed a little. Later Neil S. | ||
| Spectrum |
Neil, Funny you should say that. I was setting a stop light (in full leathers) and I guy gets out of the car in front of me and comes back to ask if I'm hot. Goes on to express concern about me wearing full leathers in 100 degree weather. My response was very similar to yours. Actually the reason I'm wearing the leathers is that I learned recently on a track day that my leather gear is cooler than my textile gear. The perforated leather breaths very nicely. A little bit of sweat combined with the wind while cruising and you have built in air-conditioning. Does suck setting at stop lights though. | ||
| Kttemplar |
Thurston, The last time my bike stalled it was hot and the bike was running 200-215 coolant temp. Have you tried manually clearing the plugs? Just a thought. Mike | ||
| Hayabusa |
My biggest issue is on engine braking in 2-6 gears below 2800 RPM's. Once the bike gets below that mark it starts spitting up through the throttle bodies and eventually around 2400 RPM's it will stall. I didn't have this issue before the re-flash...however, I do really enjoy the clean acceleration and better cruising with the re-flash. I hope that there is something new in the works from Buell! | ||
| Kttemplar |
There is some talk that the closed loop system used in the 1125R runs really lean @ 15.1-1. I do not know this for a fact, but I am thinking that with the increased fuel vapor from the hot fuel or increased volume from a constant pressure and lower viscosity of the hot fuel that the O2 sensors may be leaning the engine out even more, which may be causing the low RPM stalling in hot situations. Just a guess. I am not a mechanic, engineer or EFI tech. I am just thinking out loud. If this does not make sense, or sounds stupid, just chalk it up to ignorance. Thanks. Mike | ||
| Thurstonbuell |
Mike , Have you tried manually clearing the plugs? if thats what you mean , then no not yet I have not . | ||
| Kttemplar |
I mean using the method prescribed to clear fouled plugs. After a stall or two it is possible that your plugs are not doing so well. This combined with whatever else is causing the bike to stal may have caused a compounding effect (bike stalling-carbon buildup on sparkplugs-harder to fire-stalling again and more frequently). Again, just a thought. Manual If fouled plugs are suspected, a spark plug clean can be initiated manually. Repeat the following sequence three times: 1. Roll and hold the throttle wide open 2. Turn the ignition to ON 3. Wait three seconds 4. Release the throttle grip 5. Turn the ignition to OFF Mike (Message edited by kttemplar on June 09, 2008) | ||
| Thurstonbuell |
Ohhhh...... That........ That is the only way she will start sometimes after the stall , and sometimes the only way she would start hot this prior weekend in the lower 90's outside. | ||
| Ccryder |
Heck I even wet down the arms of my Meshtech jacket with my Camelbak. Ice water A/C is sooooo nice! When it reaches the 100 deg mark I have a cool vest. It has phase change inserts that will keep you very cool. Look here: https://www.coolvest.com/index.shtml . Last year with 90 days over 98deg, I needed more! Time2Work Neil S. | ||
| Chevycummins |
I've got an idea. Are these bikes with the stall conditions Cali bikes? I have not experienced the stall with my bike but my bike is non-Cali. My thought is if it is a Cali emissions bike and the fuel gets really hot and creates lots of vapor the charcoal canister will be full of gas vapor. When slowing down it may purge the fumes from the canister into the intake and cause it to run really rich and cause the stall, hard restart. I'm not really sure how the Cali emissions bikes work for sure but it makes sense to me. | ||
| Cutty72 |
mine stalls and it's not a cali version. | ||
| Chevycummins |
Cutty72, good to know. Thats what I was looking for. Sounds like a problem for Buell to figure out! | ||
| D_buckle |
Hey Guys! I have 7000 km's on my bike at the moment. At first it ran great, no stalling or backfiring... then i brought it to the local dealership to get the re-flash installed at the bike started running like shit. Poping and backfiring, stalling uncontrollably and running really hot. it was as if the bike was running way way to lean! I brought it back and we were planning on putting it on the dyno and checking the numbers all the way up and down the RPM spec BUT one of the service tech's found that the speedo plug into the back of the dash was loose. This was causing improper ecm communication and there for the ecm had to re-learn its programming everytime i hit a bump. It seemed to be running in some sort of "safety" or "gethome" mode. We Checked all the connections and re-plugged everything in, re-mapped it with the update once again and now it runs 10000 times better with no backfire or miss at all. the only problem it has now is when it is warm and i really crack the throttle from an idle you can hear it miss for a split second, and sometimes (once in thirty attempts) it will stall. I discussed with problem with the buell rep and Trev_deely's ( a major sponsor for buell racing) and we both agreed that the problem seemed to be the bike just running too lean at idle, probably to pass emissions standards. Im waiting it out hoping for a tunable or adjustable ECM sooner than later and hopefully that solves my problems! | ||
| Funktron |
Welp, had my first incident today....and second. I've got about 3k on the clock. I was riding along in 3rd gear at about 4500rpm and had a car start coming into my lane. So having 1125cc's of madness at the flick of my wrist.....I, well, flicked my wrist. Low and behold, the bike fell flat on its face. No power at all. I'm not talking no increase.....I mean there was NO power at all. I might as well have pulled the clutch in. Well I was able to recover and hit the horn and did some fancy braking (safely / scared). Later on....again in third....similar RPM to experiment, I got on the throttle again....same result. I was unable to reproduce it for a third time though. This has GOT to be a recall issue. | ||
| Ccryder |
Richard: Take a look here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/365999.html?1212496732 The Active Intake Solenoid is doing what it was designed to do. You do have a few options: 1) Bitch, bitch, bitch and bitch some more. It might make you fell better but, that's about it. 2) Go to your Dealer and let them know what you are experiencing. 3) Live with it now that you know when it will happen. 4) Wait until BMC comes up with a solution. 5) Unplug the 'noid. It will send some codes but, you won't have the RFA (Refrain From Accelerating). 6) Disconnect the Active intake Solenoid cable, you won't have the RFA. 7) Install an electrical substitute for the Active Intake Solenoid, you won't have the RFA. Take your pick. As far as it being a "recall" issue well, maybe but I really doubt it, especially since you are now in the know.  Give me a shout if I can help. Later Neil S. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Gonna be hard to be a recall item there, since it's there because of the EPA. AVOID 5k WFO in 3rd! Any disconnecting of the solenoid, mechanically or electrically will eventually throw a code. There are codes for "fail high" - 5v supply voltage; "fail low" - short to ground; and "No feedback" when it's supposed to work and the TPS says it didn't. Like Neil said, there's your options. Z | ||
| Cataract2 |
A reflash to adjust how it works would fix the problem. Have to wait and see. Or disconnect. Anyone tried disconnecting it after getting the reflash and try to reproduce this? | ||
| Ccryder |
Ryan: You could remove it from the "map" but then you have other "big brother" issues. If you disconnect the 'noid, one way or another, it gets rid of the RFA. Do you have a question that has not been answered? ;+} | ||
| Carmell |
Not sure if this has come up yet, but if there is any disconnection made to the noid, electrically or mechanically, will it void the warranty ? | ||
| Mustangturbo |
7) Install an electrical substitute for the Active Intake Solenoid, you won't have the RFA. Where can one get this eliminator? | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Mustang, they are on (or were) ebay for about $90 or so. | ||
| Ccryder |
Look here: http://www.markelengineering.com/ |
