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Pkforbes87
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 01:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have an 00 X1, she's got a race ECM that was remapped by the previous owner for a Vance & Hines exhaust and K&N filter(stock airbox). Since then I have swapped the V&H for a D&D and haven't changed the mapping.

When the engine is fully warmed up and I shut the bike off for 10-15 minutes (not long enough for it to cool down) she wants to idle really low when I start her again. Bounces around 7-800 sometimes as low as 600 but dies soon. After I ride her again for maybe 10 minutes the idle goes back to normal (1050) but hangs at 2000 for a while before dropping. This is getting progressively worse. At first the idle was slow, but now it's impossible to keep the bike running on warm starts without keeping on some throttle.

Could a head temp sensor cause this?
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Str8upsuburbz
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have been dealing with the same problem on my 99 x-1.  I replaced the Engine Temp Sensor last week alng with several TPS resets and I am still having the problem.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 08:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did a little research. I found an archive on BadWeb describing almost identical symptoms. After contacting the person He said replacing the ETS solved his problem.

I called the service department today and have new engine temp, intake air temp, and O2 sensors on order. Hopefully those combined with a TPS reset will solve the problem.

@ Str8upsuburbz:
Hope you get yours figured out soon. I'll contact you if/when I find the solution.
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Id073897
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 03:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is possibly related to a warmed-up temp sensor. Happens the same at the XB too. The air density correction then gives a too lean mixture, adjusted to the false signal from the ET sensor. Apparently the EGO correction can not compensate that.

A possible solution is to move the ETS somewhere else, where it will not stay in the heat dissipated from the engine.

Regards,
Gunter
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Bombardier
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2008 - 06:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Would a small electric fan blowing onto the outside of the sensor be a solution?
Or the same drawing the heat away from it.
Like a computer fan.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2008 - 04:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Already tried that!

I got a Hella Turbo Marine fan and mounted it to the left and rear of the rear head. It does a great job of pulling a lot of hot air off the engine, and with it on there I can cool the engine faster when I stop so it runs better once started again.

I've been trying to pay attention and figure out if it's lean or rich, and I'm pretty sure it's rich. I get a big whiff of fuel on those warm starts.

I'm just hoping the sensors along with a TPS reset get this problem solved.



A few weeks ago I sealed my exhaust wrap with some high temp silicone spray. I was too lazy to take the header off, so I just masked everything and sprayed so I may have messed up the o2 sensor at that time. I would think if I messed the o2 sensor up though, that the problem would be during normal operation, not just warm starts.
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Id073897
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2008 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not the engine temp. sensor, but the air temp. sensor. I don't know where it's placed at a X1, but I guess it's inside the airbox also.

Regards,
Gunter
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2008 - 05:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the airbox apart to clean it a few days ago and yes, the IAT is inside. It was dirty from the breather hose puking in the airbox but didn't appear to be damaged.

I'll reroute the breather before installing the new sensors, then post an update.
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Id073897
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 01:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the air temp. sensor is heating up while the bike is standing, then neither cleaning nor rerouting breather hoses will help. If the low idle this is a real problem for you, then you will have to relocate the air temp. sensor.

Regards,
Gunter
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Bombardier
Posted on Saturday, June 14, 2008 - 01:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How about the heat blankets that Odie sells?

Would they be a solution Gunter?
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Id073897
Posted on Saturday, June 14, 2008 - 02:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have no idea where the X1 has it's IAT sensor. I don't even know, how a X1 looks like ...

Moving the sensor away from the engine's heat seems the easiest solution for me.

Regards,
Gunter
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Buellisticx1
Posted on Thursday, June 19, 2008 - 05:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a similar idle issue and I solved it replacing the intake manifold seals and injectors o-ring, they were the culprits, since then the idle runs great (1000 / 1050 K) without bounces.

Good luck.
Regards.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Saturday, June 21, 2008 - 01:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

update:

Dillon Brother's told me the low idle on hot starts was due to a bad head temp sensor, and the idle hanging at 2000 before dropping to 1050 was due to leaking intake gaskets.

I've had the bike back 2 full days now and even after new intake gaskets, O2 sensor, IAT sensor, and ET sensor both idling problems are still there.

(Message edited by pkforbes87 on June 30, 2008)
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Buellisticx1
Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2008 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

me too,
I replaced intake gaskets,injectors o-ring, O2 sensor, IAT sensor, and ET sensor both idling problems are still there.
I belive may be the CPS or a bad compression.
The last weekend I took a compression test and the readings were 120 psi front cylinder and 150 psi the rear cylinder, The service manual says the readings don't must be more than 10 psi variance between cylinders.

You will let me know please, in order to know the solution to the idle problem that we have on our bikes.
Regards



(Message edited by buellisticx1 on July 04, 2008)



(Message edited by buellisticx1 on July 05, 2008)
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Monday, July 07, 2008 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Idle problem #1 solved!

The RPMs hanging at 2k before dropping to 1050 was caused by leaking intake gaskets. The reason it kept hanging after the Dealer replaced the gaskets is.. well to make a long story short I replaced the gaskets AGAIN in a hotel parking lot 500 miles from home and this time they don't leak. I also removed the old OEM spark plugs which were VERY white after running lean, and got some shiny new NGK plugs in there. Now she runs like a champ.

The other idling issue is being caused by my Forcewinder. The Forcewinder Fuel Injected model places the IAT sensor too close to the front head. When the motor is shut off, heat from the front cylinder actually dissipates through the fins and all around the IAT sensor. So when I shut the bike off hot - my engine is cooling down, but the IAT is getting hotter. If the sensor is giving such a bad reading when warm that I just can't start the bike at all, I can just unplug it and wait for it to cool. The check engine light will be on as long as the sensor is unplugged but that will work until I find a new place to mount the sensor.

Hope that helps the couple of you that I know are having the same idling issues.
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Buellisticx1
Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2008 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pkforbes87, Many Thanks for you reply, I will change the intake gaskets again, I changed them a month ago and the bike run good for a few days only, now I will change them again, I hope to have luck.

Regarding the IAT sensor, I have a C.F. Oval Air Cleaner from American Sport Bike since four years ago and never I have had this issue, but I think that the places of the IAT close to the front head may be the culprit, before I unplug it, I will try to put on a bit of hose around it, so it don't get much heat from the the front head.

I will let you know this invention.

Thanks again for your helps!!

(Message edited by buellisticx1 on July 08, 2008)
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 10:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pictures of the culprit:











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Buellisticx1
Posted on Sunday, July 20, 2008 - 07:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi again Pkforbes87, on the pics the spark plugs are very black deposit and those indicate an air-fuel mixture that is too rich, In you previous post said that they were VERY white after running lean.....How it can be this? I don't understand it.

Regarding IAT sensor, has you found a new place to mount the sensor?.

I have not been able to change the intake seals yet, so the RPM still keep hanging at 2k before dropping to 1050.

Thanks so much for your time and help!

Best Regards.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Sunday, July 20, 2008 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

you can't tell in the pictures, but the black deposits were old, and the white was fresh.. so the bike WAS running rich at one time, but when i changed the intake gaskets and plugs, it had been running lean.

i pulled the plugs a couple times since changing the intake gaskets and they look perfect, so the intake gaskets fixed the lean condition, and whatever caused the rich condition before that is apparently not an issue any more.

as for the IAT sensor, i haven't moved it yet. I just unplug it for a while if I need to start the bike when the sensor is warm. I know it isn't a good solution, but my riding habits rarely require short starts and stops so it isn't something i have to deal with very often.
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