| Author | Message | ||
     Road_Thing |
Jrh: I don't know if it's safe to assume anything, but I've installed two of them without giving it a thought, and they've held together so far! r-t | ||
| Jrh |
Road Thing Thanks for answering,Aaron,Blake,anyone else know if they come tightened from the factory?I sure hate to pull my cover back off to check,maybe i'm just being paranoid with the bad Buell luck i've had so far. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I did not check it before installation either, and I had no problems. I had the primary back off to update my detent plate (which was already upgraded... DOH!) and gave the tensioner a quick visual and poked at a few pieces (without removing it) and it looked great and was holding up perfectly. | ||
| Jrh |
Reepicheep;Thanks! for taking the time to respond to my question. John | ||
| Redstripe |
My dealers'just fitted the fifth primary gasket on my x1 in 14 months. I'd like to go on a vacation not carrying one. It's a 2000 x1, with all the nescessary "recall-mods", including the beefier primary chain tensioner. The gasket keeps giving way at the same point; that is just behind the primary adjuster. Is this a common feat on some x1's? -don't believe so- Suffice to say; the bike is been wheelied pretty much. They ad with that, don't they!? Should be up to that... The idea sprung into mind it could be the "beefier", more rigid, adjustment plate doesn't give ANY way, and "forces" the gasket out!? If anyone has some usefull comment; please DO! THNX, Jilles. | ||
| Redstripe |
Blake; Every respect, but if I had to worry every time I down shifted 'bout the way HOW, I'd buy a modern Jap racingbike RIGHTAWAY, thank YOU!! I like bikes, I like RIDING bikes, I like RIDING fast bikes, I like RIDING so called "character" bikes, but let's not get too carried away here. A Buell says "American sportsbike", that's what It's gotta live up to. Now that's all; no more, no less... Jilles. | ||
| Blake |
Redstripe, Downshift however you like. I don't care. Me, I'll try to use a nice smooth action getting down to 2nd gear so as not to upset the rear tire from its grip on the asphalt while concurrently I'm on the brakes hard coming into turn 2 from 100 mph at the local track. Go ahead though, let that clutch lever fly loose if you like. If you can't simultanesouly pay attention to proper shifting, steering, braking, and throttle control, I guess neglecting shifting action comprises the lesser of the risks involved. | ||
| Ara |
There's a recall for the primary chain??? Is that true? | ||
| Henrik |
Redstripe: I'm with Blake here; on which bike do you *not* have to pay attention to matching up engine and tranny/bike speed when you down shift?? Of course we can start talking slipper clutch and such, but that's not going to alleviate the problems you'll see if you just dump the clutch during serious slowing down. Henrik | ||
| Blake |
Ara, That's news to me. Where did you hear that? | ||
| Redstripe |
Blake, Henrik; I can imagine. Yet Blake was mentioning the downshifting in association with the possible malfunction/breakage of the primary chain tensioner... That's a totally different story! I'm not in to wrecking or destroying my bike any more than You do. Jilles. | ||
| Blake |
Redstripe, You may have missed my statement in the 2nd paragraph of my tensioner blatherings. It said... "Obviously, regardless of the loading severety or the amount of extension of the tensioner, it should be designed to withstand such worst case loading, repeatedly for the life of the motorcycle." See we are in agreement.  | ||
| Ara |
Blake, I thought I read it here, but now I can't find it. I must have misread somebody's post about the primary chain tensioner. Sorry for the misfire. Russ | ||
| Redstripe |
Yep Blake, we're on a par there...sorry 'bout the misunderstanding. Still, I'm pretty flabbergasted about the persistent malfunction of the gasket. I seem to be the only guy over here that *keeps* breaking it. I checked the casings edges last time it gave way, and they're fine!? Not even a hint of dents or scratches. The bike is used on a daily basis, You see. It serves as a means of transport as well as a hooligan-tool...  I sure hope to be able to solve it once and for all next time it gives way. Jilles. | ||
| Blake |
When you assemble it, be sure the gasket and surfaces are clean and bone dry. Then retorque the screws after taking it for a ride. | ||
| Mbsween |
Okay, I just did a really stupid thing, because I'm an idiot! Okay I'm redundant too. I was adjusting the primary on my 2001 x1, finished up and snapped the shifter bolt. The idiot part is that I was using a torque wrench (click type) and I never felt it click. I 'm thinking "boy this is getting way too tight" when snap. I'm about 95% sure the torque wrench is okay. Again I'm just a f*(& -in idiot. Okay now the big questions. Is the torque spec in the factory manual correct (27 - 29 ft-lbs)? I saw in one of my old posts that I used that setting before without a problem. Is removing the primary difficult? It seems straight forward, well then again , so does the shift lever installation! Maybe I should learn to ride in just third gear...... | ||
| M2me |
I just changed my primary/transmission fluid for the first time myself on my 2001 M2. I tried using the wrap in aluminum foil method and that worked pretty good for draining but no matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the drain bolt started. After about an hour of trying I gave up and dropped the muffler. I just removed the two bolts at the "Z" bracket and the one bolt at the front and then pivoted the muffler down about two inches to give myself room to get the drain bolt back in. Is there any danger or problems with this method? It didn't seem that hard and made getting at the drain bolt much easier. I have never seen this method mentioned on BWB and was just wondering if it could cause problems with the joint between the muffler and header. I took it for a ride afterwards and everything seems fine so far. I still think I will use the hand pump method on my next change. Even though I said dropping the muffler didn't seem that hard it was kind of a pain. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Mbsween... been there, done that, same deal. Lowes has the correct sized replacement allen key head bolts (or at least mine did). The torque is obviously wrong... I just put it back with lock-tite and torqued it "about as tight as felt right" and had much better luck. M2me... Blake posted a good tip, try a butter knife (when the spouse is not looking) to hold the bolt up to get it started. Dropping part of the muffler would probably be fine, but Buell exhausts are NOT to be trifled with. Aaron had a great tip for exhaust, when you reassemble, line everything up with none of the bolts tight, and wiggle it around until it is in a non stressed position. Then gradually tighten everything down until it everything is tight. This keeps any part from being stressed. Take it from me, you DON'T want to shear a header stud. What you did was probably fine, as you only loosened one place and it likely lined itself back up when you retightened. | ||
| M2me |
Reepicheep, Thanks for the response. I had a butter knife! No go!  The bolt and my fingers always ended up with Sports/Trans fluid on them and I couldn't do anything with the bolt in such tight quarters. I don't know what that Sports/Trans stuff is made of, but it sure is splippery and slimey. Does this stuff really need to be changed every 5000 miles? I think if I'd had a cleaner drain pain, I could of drained it, poured it back in the bottle and resold it. I mean the new stuff in the bottle didn't look or feel any different from what I drained out. This fluid had 5700 miles on it. Well, I guess my crankshaft seal is working! | ||
| Mikej |
I usd a putty knife (flexible) and an open end wrench (thinner than my fingers) to get the drain bolt started last time I had it out. Took some fiddling but it worked eventually. Now, like others, I just siphon the old fluid out for the interim changes. I'll probably pull the bolt next time to see what's sticking to the magnet on the bolt end.  | ||
| Redstripe |
Blake, As of Sunday the 11-th the primary-gasket gave way again. -6 th time- During a DBF-meeting, that is... My previous dealer had assembled it with liquid gasket and an OEM gasket; the paper one. This Wednesday, the "Dutch Buell-doctor" and I will try to assemble it with a different, not "original", gasket that hopefully will be able to hold once and for all. Undoubtably the surfaces will not be entirely flat, causing the seizure. However, the fact it has kept for a couple of weeks every now-and-then must mean it can work, right!? Perhaps the better, somewhat "fatter" gasket will be able to mantain. It has even been suggested that glueing the gasket on both sides with a oil-resistant glue could be the answer. As for now, I'll go along with just assembling it "bone dry", as You mentioned earlier. I'll keep You posted, Jilles. | ||
| Tricklidz |
All: Just finished updated primary chain tensioner shoe replacement, per AW's excellent instructions and part numbers listed here!! 1. Thanx to AW and Blake and others for the info..followed to a tee, the job went nicely. (I don't own a manual.) If that was from memory- Aaron...your brain must work better than mine!! Thanks again. 2. Dave King from Merideth HD in N.H. had the parts to me the next day..( He's excellent!!) and recommended using some torx screws he had found to replace the soft allen one's for the inspection cover...PN-3793A..from a big twin. Would suggest these over the allens...much better! These worked great (#30 torx bit), just wire brush the thread sealer off the threads before using. 3. My OE tensioner was not broken (97 S3 with 16k mi) but had 1/8" grooves...so it was a good investment. Total parts; $26.23 including 10% ATC discount! Thanks again for the help..I know that it would not have gone this smoothly without the help from this board....If anyone here is ever around New England, stop in for an "ALE" Steve BTW..Haven't had time to test ride and check for leaks ..I'll keep posted here.. | ||
| Blake |
Retorque the primary screws after the first ride. | ||
| Tricklidz |
Check! Steve | ||
| Jerome |
I've just seen on a french Buell forum that there's a german company which will soon provide a PRIMARY BELT DRIVE for BUELLS. Check it out at the following url. Any technical comments on this initiative ? Should this bring less inertia to the Buell engine or is it just a gadget giving a neat look of the left part of the engine ? | ||
| Jmartz |
Jerome: Look carefully at how they have done this. There is a thick plate against the case that likely provides the containment for the the trans oil. This puts the rotating assemblies further out which is not only aetheically displeasing but also not so good for durabilty. Looks good but it is definitely wider. The belt is wider than the chain and it is positioned about 1 inch out. I have thought of welding a plate to cover the hole between the trans and primary and using the S&S sealed trap door with a belt drive and lots of holes in the cover. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I've heard about these belt conversions. What happens to the clutch with this? Is it now a dry clutch? | ||
| Jmartz |
It would have to be. Clank, clank, clackety clank | ||
| Jerome |
Jmartz, you're right. The kit will be available this fall according to the web site. Wait that a few customers give it a try, and see... | ||
| Maximum2 |
Question: My Chain tensioner keeps backing out is this a common problem,OH 2000 m2 and only has 5400 miles. This is the third time,Should I replace the Tensioner Shoe and Nut/Bolt assembly????? Does this need to be LockTighted. |
