| Author | Message | ||
     Buffalobolt |
"Are you freaking nuts!?!" was almost the universal response from almost everyone I either knew, or met along the way of this trip. So it somehow seemed fitting that it should be in the subject line. Several months ago I found out that my trip was approved to go to a conference in Salt Lake City, UT. I had always wanted to take a bike ride out to the west coast in general, but I specifically always wanted to ride the Pacific Coast Highway. So I asked my boss if I could get reimbursed the equivalent of my airline ticket and ride, he said yes. This started the planning of my little adventure, and come to think of it, that was also the first time I got the above listed reply, from my boss! There were a lot of things that I wanted to see, in the relatively short time frame that I had. I had fifteen days to do this trip, and four of those were at the conference, so that left 11 days worth of riding. As I had already seen a lot of highway from say, Fort Worth and east, my plan was to burn down to the Fort Worth, TX area just as quick as possible after work on Friday (4/25/08). From there I figured to hit some points of interest while heading to the Pacific Coast Highway, and then turn around to go to Salt Lake. My intended route was "estimated" to 6,500-7,000 miles. I typically check this on the computer before I leave, but never got a chance to do so on this trip(Mistake #1. More on this later!). There weren't any set destinations/timeframes that I had to meet along the way. I had places that I would like to see, and roads that I hoped to travel. But, most of the trip was pretty fluid, and could be altered at a whim. So, with the S2 loaded up, I'm off! | ||
| Buffalobolt |
 Some serious stuff here!  Mostly some nerves... and what did I get myself into!? (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Well, the first "issue" pops up at around 4:30am on Saturday morning. Typically, the ol' S2 hits reserve at around 160-170 miles. At 138, she coughs, and sputters! Huh!? WTF! I switch to reserve and she takes off. Now the rather urgent search for fuel starts. Funny thing, even on the interstate, this part of Indiana has a lot of mom and pop stores that aren't open 24hrs! After repeated stops at exits, only to find them either permanently closed, or closed for the night, I start seeing signs, and lights! YES! I can see the "2 mile to exit" sign! Cough! Sputter! NO! Dead! Right at the sign! OK, a two mile push w/all of my "cold weather gear" on and a rain suit over top of it (I hit a bad storm outside Indy)! Three miles, and six police cars passing by later (3 local, 2 county, and a statey!), and I had my gas! Although thoroughly soaked and whipped, I'm back on the road. What a way to stretch out the legs! The rest of that day was pretty uneventful. After 25 hours, 1527 miles ridden, and three miles pushed, I pull into Lake Arrowhead State Park for the night!  (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Day 2: From Wichita Falls Tx, the plan is to drop down to run I-20 west to I-10 to Demming NM. Then, head north to City of Rocks State Park for the night. Wow, I'm not used to this open of county! Every time I look down I'm running 95 or 100! Yep! you guessed what came next! I'm looking at the mountains when I see all of the lights come on in the other direction. A quick look at the speedo... Crap! Maybe it wasn't me... Yep, it was me they were after. A real serious officer walks up and informs me that I was doing 94 in an 80. My statement: "Damn! There goes 25 years of a clean record." Officer: "Yep!". So, OK no warning ticket here! I make the comment "I got so busy gawking at the mountains that I didn't notice my speed. Damn, I've never seen mountains without tree's on them!" The officer busted out laughing and stated "Son, we have a bunch of them around here!". We spent some time talking about the trip and the bike and he gave me the ticket. He also thanked me for my politeness! But, I still got the ticket. I think my mistake may have been when he asked where I was coming from, and when I left. I replied, without thinking, that I had left Buffalo Friday night! You could see the wheels turning in his head as he was figuring time to distance... I put the ticket in my pocket, and didn't look at it for several days! After several more hours of every car passing me, and a few missed turns. I pull into "City of Rocks" state park at O'dark thirty! Wow! Did I misfigure the mileage today! I was figuring around 600, and it was more like eight hundred! OK, Mistake #2: If you're going to places like "City of Rocks" and the "Grand Canyon", you might not want to bring a tent that relies on STAKES(!), no matter how compact it is! Pulling in, in the dark, to set up, I couldn't even see to find a camp site. I found a parking place for a site, and figured "close enough for tonight!". When I realized my tent mistake, I started looking for softer ground, only to find "Beware of Rattlesnake's" signs everywhere. So, the tent was set up, tied between the garbage can and the swing arm of the bike. AHHH, sleep! Rocks, what rocks!}  (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Day 3: Wow! This "City of Rocks" place is pretty cool! It's like camping meets Stone Henge!  After a few quick pictures, I pack and leave. The planned route today is NM180, to NM78. From there take AZ route 191, more or less, all the way to the Hopi Indian reservation on AZ 264. Then, head west to the Grand Canyon for the night. (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
AZ route 78 runs into the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest, and is very beautiful.  From there I hit AZ route 191N. I had recently seen this route listed in one of the motorcyle touring magazines. And with it being right where I was planning on being, I decided this was a "must do" route. Now, the author had some very high praises for this road. After a couple of miles on this road, I'm thinking he was freaking nuts! But, after some thought, he had probably wrote that article late the previous summer. I, however, was running it right after the snow had melted, and living in a snowbelt area, should have expected these conditions. You would be going along enjoying some twisty's, and the next thing you know, you're coming into a very tight bend a little too hot. And, as you're hard on the brakes you instantly realize there is a quarter of an inch of the not quite gravel, not quite sand, substance on the road. You realize this of course, while both ends are sliding and you are getting way too close to that white line that the state uses to mark the cliff/road edge! I had been seeing signs to watch for animals. Cool, I'd love to see some! While sliding through one particularly ominus bend, I register some "piles" in the middle of my lane, that I manage to maneuver around. In hind sight, I should have seen what was coming (as you probably already have). Just as I was rolling on the throttle coming out of the bend, I see it! The maker of the "piles"!, and it was in the process of making one right in front of me! My eye's get big, as I shout S@#T! And for a brief moment we are going down the road side by side, with me hoping he stays in his lane! Ohhhhh, animals = open range! (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
After about 20-30 miles of sliding through turns, I decided that I had enough of this fun, and pulled over to look for an "alternate" route.  My map and the road sign confirmed it. I was going to be on this road for about another 80 miles(!) before I could turn off on anything other than dirt roads. Oh, well late again tonight! The road actually did get better at some of the lower elevations. When I looked beside me this is what I saw. Yeah, they got a little bit of snow here I guess. I got to route 264 at the Hopi Indian reservation that afternoon, and headed west. It's getting dark as I'm heading down route 64 in to the Grand Canyon State Park (This is getting to be a central theme on this trip. Note to self. ALWAYS check mileage on the computer, BEFORE the trip!). I see another elk crossing sign and think, "..nows when I'll see one. I rolling right along, and its dark". Not five seconds later I see "something" move on the opposite berm. At the moment I recognized it, I saw its rack (already about 2' tall, and in velvet) turn to look back across the road. Crap! There are more, I thought, as I slammed the brakes on! Sure enough, two cows trotted across the road right in front of me. (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Day 4: Do I look cold?  I am! After a long, cold night, with only a few hours sleep, I'm ready for another day on the road. I found out that morning that the low that night was only 36! No wonder I had to get up and plug in my heated jacket into the bike in the middle of the night! I decided to take a couple of hours and take a quick look at the canyon before pulling out. (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
 After some site seeing, I packed and off on the days ride. Today I'll head south on AZ route 180, catch I-40 for a couple of exits, and then take old route 66 to Kingman. From there its a run to Vegas, and a quick look at the casino's. Its in Vegas that I learn Mistake #3. Always let your credit card company know that you are on a trip! In Vegas they shut my card down, due to "security concerns". A quick call to India, and I think that its taken care of... In Vegas, I also had an unplanned change of itinerary. My original plan called for leaving Vegas on hwy 160 into CA and across Death Valley. After missing a turn I ended up on I-15 just outside CA on NV route 161. I figured that if I headed north I could get back on route, instead of doubling back to Vegas. WRONG! After about an hour-and-a-half of roads to nowhere that eventually turned to gravel, or dead ends, I got back on the interstate. I did however, find a nicely paved mountain pass that was fun! So I ended up cutting out Death Valley, and burnt interstate to Barstow. Again, tired, and setting up in the dark! (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Day 5: Since yesterday afternoon, I've been fighting this darn Santa Anna Winds! What a PAIN! My helmet's off to you guys that have to deal with this all the time! I'm headed north-west out of Barstow on CA hwy 58, while fighting ol' Santa Anna. Normally I have to fight with my tank bag to get maps in and out of it. Santa Anna was sucking them out, while trying to rip my tank bag off the side of the bike! So, I have my chin on the map pouch, my right shoulder holding the bag in place, all while leaned over at what seemed like a 45 degree angle, on a straight road! And, it never failed. As soon as you started getting comfortable with it, it would catch you when you least expected it to change direction, speed, gusts, etc. Anyways, from Bakersfield, it was route 65N to Visalia, and then 198 to Sequoia National Park. What a beautiful place!  The roads, while posted mostly at 35, were very scenic, and enjoyable! (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Then, I hit the Forest of Giants! Wow! are these things big! That tiny purple speck is the S2!  (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
One more shot from the Sequoia National Park.  I spent waytoo much time here. Yet, could have easily spent much more. So from here I take CA hwy 180W to I-5. At about 11pm I'm getting near SanFrancisco and I'm too tired to care about camping, even if I could find a campground. So, it's Motel 6 for tonight. (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Day 6: This is the day! I'm so psyched! I wake early (again, but this time from excitement, not cold), and after fighting rush hour traffic, and a couple of wrong turns. I make it to my first destination of the day! On one side note; NO, I couldn't bring myself to split lanes. I thought about it, but didn't want to have a saddle bag ripped off on the other side of the country!  I made it! West Coast Baby!! (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
I again spent too much time in one place. but Point Bonita is a pretty cool place for both it scenery, and history.  From here, I was headed for my main destination of the trip.... the Pacific Coast Highway! (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
I made it!! After a few missed turns, and several stops for directions. The weather was cooler than I had figured on, but was still awesome! Well worth the trip!  One thing that I figure out quickly (As I rounded a sharp right hander where all you could see was a LOT of air, with the Pacific, WAY DOWN THERE!), target fixation could really ruin your day on this road! As neat as this road was, I found another road that was the best road of the trip! At Fort Brag, I turned off the PCH onto CA 20E. That road from Fort Bragg to Willits is AWESOME! That was one of those man/machine/road moments when it felt like you could do no wrong! The road had a bunch of turn outs, and the cars actually knew to use them! At the sound of the growling S2 coming up behind them, they would immediately pull off! I rarely had to let off of the throttle. From Willits, I stayed on 20 to Ca hwy 16 to Sacramento. As par for the course by now, it was getting late and was a long ways from my destination. So, from Sacramento I burnt I-80 east. At about 9:30 I started getting cold and pulled over to put the heated gear back on. Back on the road, I started seeing several signs for state forest campgrounds. It was as I was pulling into the campground that I noticed that there was still several feet of snow on the ground. Well, this had been a pretty cold trip so far, and I can deal with it to an extent. But, I had no motivation at this point to sleep in the snow after this long day. So, off to Reno, NV for another visit to a Motel 6! It was when I was back on the road to Reno that I noticed a road sign telling where I was at..... DONNER PASS! (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Day 7: The final leg for the first part of the trip. From Reno, NV it was going to be Hwy 50 across Nevada to Ely. Then, north on Hwy 93 to the Bonneville Salt Flats. From there it would be a quick run across I-80 to Salt Lake City. I read about Hwy 50 on a post here on the Badweb (loneliest roads), and with it being along the route, it was also a must do on this trip. "Loneliest Road in America" (?) Yeah, I'm a believer!  (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Someone had wrote on the wall of this place that it was a Pony Express Way Point. However, the other Pony Express places along the way had all been fenced off. So, I don't know if this one was, or not. It was still kind of neat to check out though. There was also a neat mine shaft in the side of the hill behind it. Silver mine?  A shot from Bonneville. Somehow ya half expected to see old Burt Munroe burning across it on his Indian....  (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Well, I pulled into my Motel at 6:45pm on Friday. Exactly seven days from leaving (not counting time zone changes). It was 5,504 miles to this point, and I'm ready for a couple of days off the bike. Oddly enough, at one point crossing route 50 in Nevada that day the miles got to wearing on me, and I thought I was ready to be done with this trip. After a few beautiful vista's though, I came to my senses and thought "You're freaking nuts! When will you get a chance like this again! This is GREAT!!" I was pretty busy with seminars during the next four days, but took a few minutes to run through the Mormon Tabernacle Complex. All I can say is "WOW"! That place is spectacular. It probably didn't hurt that everything was in full bloom at the time!  While in SLC I got a fresh oil change in the ol' girl at the local HD shop. While I'm very thankful that they worked me in, I now remember why I do my own work... While walking by the bike each day while working, I got to looking hard at my rear tire. All of that high speed, flat straights really put a hurt'n on the center of my Conti Road Attacks, even with me doing my best to wear an edge on any corner that I could find. I originally figured they would last the whole trip, even though they had about 2K on them before starting this trip. Now, before I forget, I need to mention this. All throughout this trip Don (OZ) had been keeping track of me, advising on the weather ahead, and consulting on some of my mechanical concerns along the way. Don, and I had been talking and I mentioned my concern with my rear tire. It was down to less than a 1/16th of an inch of tread in the center. The more we talked about, the more it worked on my mind. The day before leaving SLC I had a message on my phone. It was a call (from Mike (Iamike)) stating that he had a shop with a Metzler sport-touring tire on stock if I could make it to Waterloo, IA! Wow! I was blown away! After talking to him I found out that Don (OZ) had been calling ahead trying to set up some tire options for me! He had called Appleton, Dave S., and Mike (forgive me if I am missing some others) trying to locate a Conti for me. Or, any other viable options. So, I figured that I would run my route, and keep an eye on the tire. If I could, I would shoot for the Metzler in Waterloo. If not, I would find something along the way. (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Day 12: I leave SLC and take US route 40 east to Denver, CO. I was planning on stopping at Mt. Evans (the Highest Road In America @ 14,264 ft). Then, I would head north on I-25 into WY, and stop for the night. Just before coming into Denver, there was a HUGE mountain in front of me. The black clouds were just boiling over the top of that mountain. I'm thinking, "Those sure look like snow clouds! I'll bet it's snowing up there! I sure hope I can cross it!" Sure enough, about half way up the clouds started getting closer to me, the temperature started dropping (the heated liner got turned on!), and the snow started falling! Crap!! I hoped that there wasn't going to turn me around for no chains! Fortunately the snow didn't stick to the roads. But what a sight! This was easily one of the most memerable sights of the trip! I wanted to stop and take pictures, but there purposely was almost no shoulder, as there were warning signs up everywhere stating "NO STOPPING!", and "AVALANCHE ZONE!". But the sun shinning through the low snow clouds reflecting off those snow covered peaks was breathtaking! I still wish that I could have captured that though... After looking at the maps later, it appears that that mountain was Berthound Pass @ 11,315 ft. So, I guess thats why the ol'S2 was weezing a bit, and pretty anemic under 3,000 rpm! Well, I'm on I-70 for a couple of exits when I see the signs for Mt. Evans..... With a BIG CLOSED SIGN COVERING THEM! Apparently, they don't open it until later in May (weather permitting). I decided that I rode this far, I might as well ride up as far as I can. It was still a nice ride though. And cold! Here's a shot just before the entrance to Mt. Evans.  (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Well, here's as far as I made it up Mt. Evans....  From here, I went a couple more exits on I-70, over to I-25 north. By Ft. Collins it was dark, and I was beat again. So I followed some signs to a state park and, as usual, set up in the dark. A quick look at the maps for tomorrow, and in the sack. (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Day 13: I’m up, and packed at dawn again. Today I plan to shoot up I-25 about 150 miles to Orin, WY. From there I’d take US Route 20 across WY, and into NE. Then NE Route71 North into South Dakota. At Hot Springs, SD I jumped over to route 89 north to route 244, and Mt. Rushmore  After doing the tourist thing at Mt. Rushmore, I rode into Rapid City and got something to eat, and did an evaluation on my rear tire situation. Waterloo, IA still looked to be 5-600 miles away at this point and the center of my tire had about 5 thousandths of an inch of tread left. With my luck, I figured that I would get about half way across ND and that tire would pop. And, the tow bill would cost me twice the cost of a new tire. So, I called the local HD shop. They had a Dunlop 208 on stock, and if I got there quickly (it's 4:30 or 5:00 by now) they could change it. 208's aren't my favorite tire, so I called a local Honda shop and they had a Dunlop 220 in stock. I've never ran a 220, but figured it had to be better than a 208. I get there and pull the saddle bags off, and they take her right in. Then the "you need to take a look at this" comes. I had been having a little problem with my rear brakes, and not finding any leaks I just assumed that it had air in the lines. WRONG! Apparently the plunger had hung up, and the brakes had been dragging. The inner pad was metal to metal! OUCH! They were new pads when I left, so I didn't even look at them when they felt funny. It gouged up the inside of my rotor pretty good, but the shop had pads that fit, and also fixed the plunger assembly. So, many thanks to that Honda shop! They not only got me in and got a tire on for me, but diagnosed, and fixed my brake problems. "On the rode again......" So now its 40 degrees outside, dark, and starting to rain. I drive by a motel/campground and turn around. I ask the man at the front desk "How much for a tent site, and how much for a room? Depending on your answer will depend on how bad I want to set up my tent in the dark and rain." I said that there was another choice. In between, cost wise, there was a tepee with a concrete floor and a cot. I said that was cool. Well this guy was listening and came over and asked about my trip. He then tossed me a set of keys!? "Tepee's have locks?", I asked. He said, "Nope you look cold and tired. I'm giving you a room for the same cost." COOL! I'm getting pretty lucky today! (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Day 14: Today was to be about putting on some miles.... But, when I awoke the next morning and got on the road, I found that I was less than a mile from the entrance to the Badlands. Well, I’m right here, and I have to go through the park to get to the interstate, so I might as well take a look. It was pretty cool. Here’s a shot for you.  I’m just coming out of the Badlands park and there is an attraction for an original sod-house home site. This is something that I had been pondering for the last couple of hundred miles, with few trees in sight. So, I killed another hour, or so, checking it out. Neat! (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
So, back on the road. It’s I-80 all the way across SD and into Minnesota. At Albert Lea, I take I-35 south to Iowa. Then Iowa Rout 18 east over to 218 south. My plan was to to possibly meet Mike, and buy him a cold one for his efforts to help (if he was so inclined). Well about Charles City, IA it’s getting dark, and I’m tired when I see signs for a campground. This is as close to getting set up by dark as I have had since TX. It was kind of nice to see what everything looked like BEFORE morning.  It was a really nice site, right on the banks of the Cedar Creek(?). (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Day 15: I called home last night and my wife told me that they were meeting my family for breakfast on Sunday morning, and wanted to know if I was going to be able to make it. “What’s up that your meeting them Sunday?”, I asked. S I L E N C E . . . “It’s Mother’s Day.” Crap! I forgot! “Yeah, I’ll be there for it.”, I told her. So, today definately has to be about burning miles! I only had one more stop that I wanted to make to finish off the trip. So, up and packed by dawn, and burning US 20 east. Sorry, Iamike! I catch I-90 at Chicago. I hate this town! After sitting in heavy stop and go traffic forever, and waiting to pay tolls, I out of there and burning miles again! Well I guess the miles numb the brain after awhile. I kind of noticed the bike popping when I let off the throttle to shift but it didn’t register in the brain. Somewhere in Indiana, coming out of a toll booth, it hit me that the bike sounded louder, and was popping much worse during shifts. So, I pull over, and sure enough, a stud had pulled out of the front cylinder and the other nut on the exhaust had vibrated off. The collar was just rattling on the pipe. Not much I can do now. I tie the collar up to the frame with some zip ties. At least it won’t tear up my pipes any more. At Toledo, Ohio I head north on I-75 and I’m hell bent on reaching.... Yep, you guessed it! Hell, Michigan. My final stop. At Ann Arbor I take D19 north, and turn off at the road sign that pointed west down a road and simply said “Hell”. Well, I finally made it! My final destination! The old S2 and I have now officially been to Hell and back!  (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
I went into the ice cream shop that this picture was taken at. The owner was a really cool guy! He asked where I was from, and I replied “Buffalo, NY. But I’m on my way back from California.”. He yelled, “Get this man an ice cream cone, on the house!” “Now you can say you’ve been to Hell and had an ice cream cone!” He wouldn’t take any money for the cone. It turns out he is also a rider, and tries to take two weeks a year to travel the country on his V-rod. I bought a few souvenirs, and packed up and left.  I stopped in Ann Arbor on the way back through. I found a 24hr K-mart and looked for a nut on for the exhaust but with no luck. While grabbing a burger at McDonalds, they had CNN on the TV’s. They were showing the storm front that I had been outrunning since South Dakota. I wanted to stay ahead of it because it appeared to be building strength. Back to Toledo, Ohio, and west on I-90. I wanted to be either very near, or at, Erie, PA for Sunday morning. Well at 3:30 am I pulled into Erie, and got gas. At this point I said the heck with it. I’m only 90 miles from my own bed, and then I won’t have to worry about rain. So, at 5:30 am on Sunday May 11th I pulled back into the driveway. (Message edited by Blake on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Buffalobolt |
So there you have it! My big trip to the west coast. I was WAY off on the total miles! It turned out to be 8,405 miles, according to my odometer! This was done in 15 days (only 11 of which were travel days.) It was a VERY long trip! And, a week later both the bike and I are still recovering! It was a good trip though. Everything worked out. I pretty much followed my planned route. I only had a total of about three hours worth of rain, where it was heavy enough that I needed to put on my rain suit. Many thanks, again, to Don (OZ), Mike (Iamike), Dave S, and anyone else involved with attempting to help along the way! I truly appreciate it! This is a great site, with awesome people on it! So here’s a brief summary. Miles: 8,405 Travel Days: 11 Days on the road: 15 States Hit: 20 Hours of Rain 3 Oh, yeah. I did make it to breakfast. I got to bed at 6am. My wife wakes me at 9am. I shower. Then she throws me the keys to the car, and states “You’re Driving!”. | ||
| Bigdaddy |
Excellent story and thank you for sharing it with us. | ||
| Pa47 |
Awesome ride. Best thing I've seen since Jim Nance's cross-country tour last year. Loved the pictures too; especially the one of the Badlands. Your photo skills are excellent. | ||
| Rotzaruck |
WOW!!! I want to do that. But I'd probably die. Great trip, pic's and story!!! Good thing you got back by Mother's Day, and I hope you know to appreciate the reminder. Some wouldn't do that for you, hoping they would have something to harp about for a few years!! Thanks Rotzaruck!!! |
