| Author | Message | ||
     Awprior |
EBC kevlar brake pads... According to mawonline.com, they fit an M2. Will these work, or should I shell out $70 for a set of stock pads? The reason why I was looking at this site was cheap tires. Anyone else have a good place to look? | ||
| Blake |
Stock brake pads work GREAT. The EBC HH's are very good too if you are more aggressive, like an avid track rider. Not sure about EBC Kevlar pads. X1G, You can get most racing DOT tires in 170/60. I know D207GP's are available in that size. The track record at OHR is held by the Metzler Rensport DOT racing tires. Seems like most of the serious CMRA racers are using them. They claim that they give some warning slide like Dunlops but last much longer. There's a guy selling used Pirelli slicks on the CMRA mBoard for $50 a set. Claims they have three sessions on them and still have good life left. That's a good deal. | ||
| Jmartz |
Just a note on brakes, the stock brakes on my friend's 1998 S1 work quite a bit better than my Ferodo. They are more effective and have better feel. The only positive thing I can say about my rotor/pad combo from Ferodo is that when stressed after coming down hot on 129 they seem to sustain their mediocre performance while the stock brakes begin to fade. | ||
| X1glider |
Blake what race DOTs are you talking about that come in a 170? The D207GP is discontinued, replaced by the D208GP which only comes in a 120 and 180. Unless you talked to the tire guy (Mike?) at OHR and he had some lying around. I will speak to him next time I see him. I've talked to him back when I took the race class. Seems like a good guy with a good sense of humor. Come to think of it, I think he did laugh when I told him I want to race the Buell!  | ||
| Blake |
I may have mispoke. Mike is the guy though.  | ||
| Henrik |
AWPrior: if those are the EBC Green pads, don't bother. They are much too soft for the stainless rotors - and they generate *lots* of black brake dust that you'll have fun trying to get off the finns of your front cylinder with a toothbrush ... Henrik | ||
| Djkaplan |
I absolutely agree with Blakes assesment of 180/55's. The distorted sidewall is useless and does not allow you to use all of the tire's tread. I learned the hard way myself when I put a 180/55 207 on my 5" wheel. I'm back on a 170/60 now and the bike handles and feels much better. As a sidenote, the 170/60 207ZR I'm using is visually not any narrower than the 180 was when mounted on the same rim. | ||
| Suzypoozie |
Thanks for the information! I am going to stick with the stock brakes and go with Metzler tires. Thanks! | ||
| Seatonii |
I just put a set of Metzler sport tech M1 on my 00 X1. I have one put about 200 miles on then and so far a think I like them. I am not as good at cornering as most on this site. I have not had any issues with gripe of the rear tire or any indication that it is slipping. One thing I did notice is that the front tire will make some noise, squeal, under hard braking from high speeds. I never feel any slip but just the sounds. Also if a power wheelie in first, from about 3000 RPM, when I sent the front end back down, just as it is time to shift about 6500 RPM, the tire will chip fairly loud like it is slipping. I still have not FELT any slipping from either tire but just the sound. This could be good for me anyway so I will have some warning before the tire lets go. Also, I had D207s on the bike before and I never heard this sound. DWIGHT | ||
| Cowboy |
seatonii.......congrats on the metzler. I also ride a X1. I tried 4 diff. brands, only 3000 to 4000 till cords showing. I have 4500 on the sport tec. with at least another 1000 left in them.I just returned from doing appx, 700 mi in the ozark Mts. I found the tire worked great. | ||
| Srl |
I'm sure it's been covered somewhere before but what's the best way to get the wheel bearings out/in to the PM wheels? Do you need a puller? If so where is the best place to get it? Thanks, SRL | ||
| Suzypoozie |
I have my new Metzler tires! They felt GREAT for the first 4 miles, and then the rain came. Because they still have that outer "sheen" on them, the rest of the 20 or so mile ride was sketchy. I know that as soon as they are broken in a bit I will be a happy rider! | ||
| Blake |
SRL, I've never tried it myself, but I've heard that you can use one of those computer "Duster" cans of pressurized/liquid "air" (really 1,1,1,2-tetraflouroethane), to shrink freeze the outer race so that it removes easily. The idea is to turn the can upside down so it squirts liquid, and spray the outer race of the bearing (be sure to prevent inner race from spinning if it has that tendency, probably not on your Buell's sealed bearings). Get the bearing's outer race good and frosty then quickly work it out of the wheel. I'm skeptical, but it does make some sense. Seems like a hair dryer simultaneously keeping the hub warm would help too. | ||
| Lee |
Has anyone had any issues with the EBC's HH pads running too hot and doing any damage like warping. Mine seems to run awful hot. I mean, hot's good but this seems too hot. Any thoughts???? Thanks, Lee | ||
| Blake |
Heat is produced by friction. Friction is what stops your bike. No friction... no heat... no stopping. Heat good! Other than that, check to be sure that the pads are not binding and failing to release from rubbing the disk. | ||
| Suzypoozie |
I put new rear brake pads on my bike last night. After 1/2 hour of bleeding, they are still mushy. Any suggestions? Do I have to use another method other than one person pumping the brake, holding down, and the other bleeding? I know they make a hand held thingy that creates a vacuum...do I have to get one of these? | ||
| Blake |
Suzy, I feel for you. I HATE bleeding brakes! First question I have to ask though, (inspired by Carl of Sling Blade fame)... What grade of brake fluid are you using? Your '97 S1 used silicon based DOT 5 fluid from the factory. DOT 5, for whatever reason, is sometimes VERY hard to find in retail automotive parts stores. The newer Buells have gone to DOT 4, probably for that reason. If you add DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid to a system that contains DOT 5, it will not regain proper feel/operation until it is disassembled the entirely and thoroughly cleaned. The two different fluids don't like each other. If you are using DOT 5 fluid... Did I already say that "I HATE bleeding brakes!"?  ... Try riding it for a bit. The master cylinder may clear itself. Otherwise... 1. Try tapping on the caliper with a small wrench while bleeding it; this sometimes helps to dislodge tiny air bubbles. 2. Removing the caliper and holding it elevated wrt the master cylinder also sometimes helps to dislodge bubbles. 3. Also you can try bleeding but instead of at the caliper, slightly loosen the banjo bolt at the master cylinder until brake fluid starts to leak out, then retighten it, and immediately wipe/spray the area clean to avoid paint damage. | ||
| Aaron |
One of the critical things about bleeding brakes is to make sure that pedal comes ALL the way back up between cycles. If it doesn't, it has a hard time sucking fluid back down from the reservoir into the master cylinder, and you get nowhere fast. | ||
| Suzypoozie |
OK I will put all to mind and give it a shot! I have been riding it a bit to see if it will right itself, but no luck so far. I am supposed to ride to ride all weekend. | ||
| Blake |
Well, it is the rear brake right? No big deal not having a rear brake on a sport bike. Just be careful on slippery surfaces. | ||
| Henrik |
I actually like bleeding brakes - after finding "The Way" (pun intended). Get a 50 cc syringe and a 5-6" piece of clear plastic tubing; I.D. should fit the tip/nipple of the syringe and the bleeder nipple of course. Attach the tubing to the syringe, making sure the fit is air-tight (a skinny wire tie cinched tight around the hose/nipple will help). After completely draining the system, remove the bleeder nipples and wrap the treads with a few wraps of teflon tape - explanation follows. Fill the syringe with new brake fluid. Make sure the keep the hose submerged in the brake fluid while filling; if it starts "slurping" you'll get lots of little bubbles in the new fluid = more air to bleed out of the system after filling. 1) Put the wrench on the bleeder nipple and a rag under it. Flip the syringe/hose so the hose points up; press syringe piston to expell most of the air and completely fill the tube with brake fluid. Slip the hose over the bleeder nipple trying to avoid air in the hose. Hold the syringe above the brake caliper - any air remaining should rise to the syringe itself. 2) Loosen the bleeder nipple and inject fluid into the system until you see the fresh fluid in the reservoir - fill it half way. 3) Now, here's the real trick; without tightening the bleeder nipple, pump the brake lever - it will pump fluid back into the syringe. Don't pump more than there is always enough fluid in the reservoir to prevent pumping air into the system. Keep alternating between injecting fluid from the brake caliper and pumping it back out with the brake lever. The flow will carry most of the air out either at the brake caliper, where it will rise in the syringe so it doesn't get injected back into the system, or out into the reservoir. The teflon on the bleeder nipple threads will keep fluid from seeping out and air from seeping in around the treads. 4) Tap the brake line to dislodge any remaining bubbles and pump back and forth a few more times to flush them out of the system. Tighten the bleeder nipple. 5) Sometimes air will get trapped in the banjo bolt at the master cylinder. As Blake said, keeping gentle pressure on the brake lever and loosening the banjo bolt a hair, until fluid seeps out, may get rid of that air. A good investment is a banjo bolt with a bleeder nipple in it. That way you can use the syringe to flush that part of the system as well. 6) put the lid on the reservoir and let the bike sit overnight. Tap the brake lines again and repeat step 3), but make sure you pump from brake system to syringe as the first step. Air trapped at the top of the caliper will be pushed out. Air trapped at the master cylinder will stay where it is for this first pump -gravity, don't ya know. All this sounds laborious and time consuming, but once you're set up, it'll take less than 15 minutes to do a dual caliper front brake set-up to perfection. Henrik | ||
| Blake |
Only an MD could come up with such a medically precise brake bleeding procedure. Thanks for taking the time to describe that doc. And you know I appreciate very much your highly technical sounding Dutch accent, so don't ever change the way you speak. It's just that screws and bolts have "threads" where tires and shoes have "treads." Either that or you might need to start calling your Buell a "Tunderbolt". Blake PS: You definitely own this topic now! ![:]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Peter |
Wow. War starts at Bonneville! Calling a Dane a Dutchie..... You're brave. Henrik, Mityvacs work really easily too. PPiA | ||
| Aaron |
Blake, have you ever met Henrik? You'd be amazed at how perfect his English is, and how little accent he has. I have another Danish friend who's the same way. | ||
| Henrik |
It's just that screws and bolts have "threads" where tires and shoes have "treads." OK, so I have *one* (?) typo in an 8 paragraph dissertation - and immediately I'm the target for mockery and ridicule - hrroumph  And Peter is right; Danish not Dutch. Although the Dutch are cool with attitudes very similar to the Danes. But you still owe me a cold one Blake Aaron, thanks. The accent shows itself more clearly after a brew or two - or so I'm told  Mityvac: I have one, but found it a bit cumbersome with all the hoses. When I "tested" it against the syringe method, I still found quite a bit of air trapped by the top banjo bolt/master cylinder. Henrik P.S. Sure, I'll take this topic. | ||
| Blake |
 Henrik, I promise that I shall henceforth always know you as a great Dane. Denmark/Danish Netherlands/Dutch Holland/Dutch Amsterdam/Dutch I would have let just one typo slide. Aaron, yes, I was fortunate enough to crash Henrik's domicile late one weekday evening via the accompaniment of one caffeine riddled CLC. You of course are correct, Henrik speaks better English than I. | ||
| Henrik |
I would have let just one typo slide. Well, if someone had gotten the Spell Checker up and running ...  Henrik | ||
| Blake |
But, you spelled "treads" correctly.  | ||
| Superd |
Quick question on Buell stock brakes. Saw a '97 M2 and noticed that the front brake had the Buell logo, but the back had a Brembo logo on it. Are the stock brakes Brembo with a Buell cover? | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Okay, Guys. During a pretty technical section of road this weekend while blasting around West Virginia, my front brake started chattering and then squealing. Granted, I was using it pretty hard, (following my buddy on his Ducati, who had no problems with HIS brakes) but I thought that big Buell brake was bulletproof. I now have what I guess is a warped rotor, and I'm wondering if any of you guys had tried to have this problem repaired under an extended warranty. Will they cover this? Oh, bike is a 2001 M2 with 5500 miles. Thanks for any help. Chris |
