| Author | Message | ||
     69drkhrse |
I have had my M2 for about 3 years now. Every summer when it gets hot out it starts to detonate like crazy. I tried uping the jet size to get her more fuel, helped a little but not enough. I'd like to fix the problem before i blow a hole in a piston. what can i do?? 1999 M2, Forcewinder intake, V&H pipe. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Are you experiencing "ping"? If so, maybe octane booster and/or retarding the ignition timing a few degrees might help? If not, and the problem is just high ambient temp like I have here in S Florida, maybe a fan? My M2 ran really hot in summer as a stock bike. Then I changed to a race header and muffler with a Mikuni HSR 42 carb with a 165 main jet. Now it seems to run much better and cooler. Not sure exactly what made the difference but it is a definite improvement. Good luck, Dave | ||
| Littlebuggles |
What's your elevation? I'm about 5000 feet here in Salt Lake, I run a 200 and a 45, just have the fuel mixture screw out 2 1/2 turns (have not dyno tuned the bike yet). You do only run high octane pump fuel, right? I still get pinging if I run anything other than 90+ fuel. Use synthetic oil too, if you aren't already, that will help keep your engine temp down a bit. (Message edited by littlebuggles on March 28, 2008) | ||
| Koz5150 |
I noticed an improvement in temp when I switched to synthetic oil. It might help a little. | ||
| Bob_thompson |
Jason(69drkhrse), All good ideas and I believe proper jetting is the most important. Along with the main jet think about going to a richer pilot jet, maybe a 45 0r a 48 and adjust the mixture screw out as Littlebuggles has suggested. When in cruise mode at lower rpm's you are using a good percentage of the pilot jet and especially when going slow as in stop and go traffic. Another thing is raising the jet needle in the main jet system by shimming with a small washer under the circlip to richen up the mid-range somewhat. KV has a considerable amount of info on jetting also. Ride safe and stay cool my friend. Bob | ||
| Jos51700 |
I guess checking timing doesn't offer any real benefits here, does it? (Sorry fo' the sarcasm, it just seems like the obvious place to start). | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Check intake seals. | ||
| Bad_karma |
 Check your seals, run synthetic oils, check your plug type/condition, ignition timing, gas quality and add an oil cooler. Also check for excessive load, brake dragging thinks like that. Also run the RPM up. Joe (Message edited by bad_karma on April 01, 2008) | ||
| V74 |
check the voes,??? | ||
| Djkaplan |
First.... are you sure you have the proper heat range plugs? Are you running 10R12 plugs or their heat range equivalent? Confirm this first. A hot plug won't make the bike run hotter, but it can cause pre-ignition when the ambient temp gets high. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Hey Travis... put an add up in the Classifieds for parts wanted. I got a response in one day when I did that and got a Low seat in perfect condition for an excellent price. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Check the VOES: I understand that its function is to switch the ignition map during low vacuum (open throttle) conditions to retard the timing just enough to avoid detonation under load. Better check this with someone better qualified than me but that is what I think it does. Good luck, Dave | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
If gas is a good grade I would check the VOES first then go from their. | ||
| Sgt_hollywood |
I got worried about temp during hard riding in FL so I threw on a LP oil cooler, added quite a bit of extra oil to the system and really knocked the temps down. However you will need to fabricate a Rad cover for cooler temps or it'll run like a dog.  |
