| Author | Message | ||
     Budstevens |
I have the service manual but it in front of me and I see the voltage regulator tests are pretty simple. Thanks for the advice. *Does anyone have any performance tips for a '98 S3T (with carbs)? Bud | ||
| Maximum2 |
Hi guys I'm new here too I've got a 00 M-2 and my speedo-trip quit working yesterday on my way home from work, Reepicheep could I get your schematic and part #s maybe even a pic or two  thanks in advance | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Maximum2 Sounds like you toasted a speedo sensor. Welcome to the club. It's about a $50.00 part. Real easy to change out. About 10 minutes of work. Customer service claims they die from having the cable ties too tight causing wire fractures. Some of us have done post mortums and found this not to be the case. Go through the archives of this topic and you can see the sordid history of blown speedo sensors. I blew 2 in one week last month.  Brad | ||
| Maximum2 |
Yes I've read all the sordid details, and sorry to hear of your "BAD LUCK" I think the cable tie theory is a bunch of @#$%. This is my 17th bike and have never had anything like this happen to any of them.Thus being my first AMERICAN SPORT bike I ordered the shop manual from Capital City H/D Buell yesterday, dont think it will add any insight but nice to have.Anyways if I could get the info to prevent this again it would be appreciated. thanks TOCK | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Tock, Bill Kilgallon (Reepicheep) came up with a "filter" that appears to help. I'm going to cob one together and install on my M2 when I get time. Good description in this section last week about the details. Brad | ||
| Reepicheep |
Do we have any reports of the new part number sensors failing yet? Last I heard, none had. Maximum2... if you aren't comfortable soldering, I will be happy to whip one up for you. Bill | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Bill, Didn't someone on this board loose one a few months back? I'm sure I remember someone roaching a new version sensor. It may have been on Sac or ATC. Brad | ||
| Thunderbolt |
Does anybody know what type of temperature sensor is imbedded in the rear head of the newer bikes? is it a thermistor? a thermocouple? what is the output vs temp? anyone? | ||
| Blake |
Pretty sure it's a thermocouple (variable voltage versus temperature) and not a thermistor (variable resistance versus temperature). I do not know the voltage versus temperature characteristics though. Anyone? | ||
| Rdefonce |
BudStevens, I've had to do the same thing with my battery; seems to loose its charge. I did just replace my old setup with the new battery and tray, plus relocated voltage regulator relocation. So far, so good. From the sounds of the other responses, it could be your voltage regulator. | ||
| Dave |
So it starts out with wanting to ride... The starter attempts to engage but sounds like a bad contact or dead battery. So I put it on the charger for about an hour or so only to hear the same. OK ... check and clean the battery terminals-same thing. Check the electrical lug on the top of the starter-same thing. Check the lower one ... positive battery cable-Bingo!  I try to loosen it but it is on there something fierce! So I use that super-human strength and muscle it off after a good soaking with some oil. Now that everything is clean/bright (semi-bright anyhow) and back together. Hook up the positive terminal to the battery and -- sparks. Hmmmm .... key off -- sparks. Fuses out -- sparks. The meter says the electrical terminal is grounded ... not good. So I guess I muscled it enough to tweak it on the inside? Starter needs to come off .... Primary chain cover removal ... stubborn torx heads have been abused by someone in a past life. Number 4 won't budge, can't get a good bite, and it wants to simply round out more! Try heat -- no good. Try a good strike (or two) -- no dice. Drill time ...  Cool ... that went good. No off with the primary chain cover -- WTF?! How much Sport Trans can someone get in this thing?!  After about half of it drained out, there was still plenty in it in there ... up to the chain with the bike level. Clutch cable needs to come out. Adjust for full slack and release clutch cable from the inside. Unthread it from the primary cover -- WTF?  It's been muscled already and is snapped off in the cover! Son of a beee-otch!! No complaints from me ... so far, things are going smoooooth. Beats mowing grass ....  DAve | ||
| Dave |
Missing pic  | ||
| Loki |
and all I managed to do was break a clutch cable today. Loki | ||
| Road_Thing |
So Dave, have you used the BFH yet?? r-t | ||
| Dave |
Nahhhhh ... not on this ;-) But on some stubbon struts on a Taurus a few weeks back!! The I did the Tuarus strut throw with the one that was giving me grief!!! hahaha DAve | ||
| Blake |
Dave, Great pic of you and your bike. I feel for ya. The look on your face pretty much says it all. One hint on removal of the clutch cover... only slightly loosen each screw (~1/8 to 1/4 turn) before removing any of them. That should keep the last one from getting put in such a bind. | ||
| Aaron |
always STRIKE the tool, never push it ... and you'll avoid the majority of these rounded torx heads. Not all, but it helps. | ||
| Road_Thing |
Another hint on those clutch cover screws: deep-six the other three of those god-awful Torx thingies and replace them with hex-heads, just like the one you had to destroy! I recently did the same exercise, but removed the #*%^ Torx screw by grinding a slot in it with a Dremel tool then breaking it out with an impact driver. I bet I can throw a Torx screw further than you can throw a Taurus strut! r-t | ||
| Dave |
All excellent words of wisdom and I tried Blake's and Aaron's torx exorcism. I unsheathed the holy Black & Decker and drilled. It actually worked really smooth r-t. And I agree ... those torx need to go and I'll replace with allens. John C (V2WIN) reminded me about using lapping compund to get extra bite. I forgot about that one. ... extra/used starter solenoid wanted DAve r-t .... I think tyou're right!  | ||
| Ccryder |
Well I had a nice 90+ degree ride back from STL this PM. Got within 10 miles of home and Stripe'r started bucking, red engine light came on, tach dropped to zero, throttle would only act intermittently and then finally the engine died. Go figure! Well I tried to restart and barely anything from the starter. So I just figured that at 28,000 miles and 22 months Stripe'r was tired, er at least her battery. MRR to the rescue (Thank you Mark). An hour+ later with a new battery installed Stripe'r fires up and I go home. Now after a much needed shower and some grub I do some checking to see if it really was the battery. 1: Voltage at battery with engine running 13.4 volts, Ok but not great. 2: Voltage regulator ground check, no grounds Ok. 3: Stator ground check, Ok. 4: Voltage from stator at 2000 rpm is 17.2-19.3 volts (at 2,000 rpm should be 38-52 volts). Eureka! I think we've found the culprit! Anybody else come to the same conclusion that the stator at least has some shorted turns and ain't producing up to it's specs? Time to pull out that extended warranty card and my $50 and hit the Dealer. Hope I can get my favorite Tech to cure Stripe'r while I'm up in Toronto next week. Time For more surfing. Neil S. p.s. There really must be a "Supreme Being" with a Pegasus on their patch looking down on me. In the last 2 weeks I know I've clocked over 3000 miles all over the Missouri Ozarks (I could have been stranded in some Farmer's driveway, or much worse) and 2 trips to STL and back. To have Stripe'r halt sooo close to home must mean that something is smiling on me. Thank you, whomever. | ||
| Blake |
Neil: Seems to me that if the stator was shorted, it would not pass your ground check. Stator output spec is VAC, not DC voltage. If you mistakenly measured DC voltage, I think your stator is fine. Good news if I'm right. | ||
| Ccryder |
Blake: I measured AC voltage. As far as shorting there is more than one type of "shorting". Most common is when a turn or multiple turns of magnet wire shorts to ground (lamination stack or case) ie: grounded. A stator can also short between turns on a coil ie: lower output. A stator can also short between coils ie: lower output. I am using my background in building electric motors as my knowledge base so there may be some issues that don't crossover 100% (especially since I'm a Mechanical Engineer, not Electrical ;+}). The voltage produced by the stator was measured on the AC scale and it was 1/2-2/3's less than what is called out in the S/M for the AC output check. I really feel that the stator has gone to marginal output. Given the miles and the shaking of the rotor when the nut broke/ cracked I feel the stator has been compromised and fortunately for me it didn't go completely South or "frag" in the primary. Next week my trip to Canada is for 4 sets of high speed winding trials on a 4 arbour precision winder. I have sent over 1000# of magnet wire for about 12 hours worth of trials. During these trials I am only winding 24 and 19AWG magnet wire but I have wound all the way to 9AWG (can you say "bigger than a coat hanger"  . I've got 1 motor the size of a soda can that produces 1/2 hp and accelrates from 0 to 5000 rpm in 5ms and to 5000 rpm CCW in 10ms. Just try and keep that torque on the ground! Time2Sleep Neil S. | ||
| Blake |
Guess it's bad news then. Forgot about your loose nut encounter. | ||
| Leeaw |
I need a little assistance. Trying to diagnose dead blinkers. Two fuses blew then a relay smoked and melted. Changed the relay and fuse (does not blow anymore), but get nothing. Relay clicks when you take out the fuse and put it back in. I am guessing a short but cannot see one, and figure maybe when the relay smoked, it destroyed the wire? I pulled the relay out and did a resistance test on the 3 wires. Black and Orange/White read zero, but the Purple/Black bounces around on the left side of the scale (sorry I know nothing about electronics or multimeters). I also get the same thing when testing the wire at the plug end that joins with the switch housing plug. I get zero resistance at the bulbs so that is not it. I don't have a schematic, could use a copy though if you would not mind emailing it, but would this mean that Purple wire is probably grounded, and how would you get it out of that thick wire loom? Where should I go next? I want to ride! | ||
| Road_Thing |
Leeaw: The really simple answer would be a bad flasher, but I've never been that lucky! Have you, by any chance, had the handlebar control apart for any reason? It's easy to bugger the little wires in there, or to pinch them when you put it back together. Look at the last place you worked on! If that's not it, my best guess is that you have a short in the harness. I'd suggest that you start looking in the front, where the harness is subject to chafing due to the motion of the handlebars and forks. If you replaced the first blown fuses with fuses of higher amperage ratings, that could explain the burned relay. If the relay clicks when the fuse is pulled (assuming the signals are not actuated) that suggests to me that there's current in the wire when there shouldn't be, which in turn suggests a short. Of course, if the motor runs and the weather's good, you could always use hand signals! r-t | ||
| Leeaw |
Road, I did not have the handlebar switch apart but now do. I did not work on anything, which is the wierd thing. I did not find any physical evidence of chafing. Replaced the fuse with the same 15 amp fuse. The relay only clicks when the fuse goes back in, so it should be ok. On the 97 S1 .pdf files I was able to see that the violet/brown wire from the relay goes right into the switch. I don't know if it carries voltage or not, but as that wire is not showing zero resistence, I am expecting that wire is the culprit. Tracing it back ain't easy, being wrapped in spider webbing. I may try a jumper wire straight to the switch and see what I get. For darn darn, I lost the horn button in the switch while F'ing around. I would use hand signals but most people know nothing of what they mean, and in CT they don't even use blinkers and aim to maim. | ||
| Hootowl |
I'm having charging issues. Regulator ground check OK Stator ground check OK Stator continuity check OK (.3 Ohms with a zeroed meter) 0 Volts AC output on stator FAILED If the stator isn't shorted to ground, and isn't open between the terminals (and is EXACTLY between the prescribed specs of .2 to .4 Ohms) why do I have no output? WTFO? Your collective thoughts please... | ||
| Road_Thing |
Hoot-if the components all check out ok, it's gotta be in the wiring somewhere. Does the (new) battery discharge itself when the bike's turned off? r-t | ||
| Hootowl |
The components don't all check out. I've got no AC output from the stator. The thing that bugs me is that the stator passes the open/short tests. I'm testing through the stator wires, so I know they're good. I can read .3 Ohms from one connector, through the wire, through the stator windings, back through the other wire and to the connector. It's not open, and the windings are not shorted to ground. I worked on Avionics for 12 years, so I've seen stranger things. Avionics work on FM (fucking magic) but I didn't think my bike did. If I got any voltage at all on the output, assuing (I never assume) that it was lower than expected but still present, then I would KNOW it was the stator. But I have ZERO. (Yes, my meter is set on AC and it is not broken.) So I'm at the head scratching phase. Sitting in the garage, not wanting to rip out my stator for no reason, Jeff | ||
| Road_Thing |
Any sign of magnets adrift from the rotor? |
