| Author | Message | ||
     Bigdog_tim |
I got stuck in stop and go traffic today for almost 2 hours. I did have my bright headlights on. After a LONG time of this crap, my engine light came on. I blipped it into neutral - and pulled over (engine still running). Light went out almost immediately when I shifted to neutral. Any ideas? I tend to think it was telling me that the battery was discharging. Temps never got above 187. Thanks, | ||
| Zac4mac |
Tim, turn your key on. If the "Check Engine Light" stays lit for 4 seconds then goes out, no codes. If the CEL stays on 4 seconds, off for 4 sec and back on for 8 sec, you have "historic" codes. If the CEL is on 4 sec then 4 sec later comes on and STAYS on, you have a current error condition, and possibly historics too. Z | ||
| Slypiranna |
Turn off your brights in slow stop and go traffic. There simply is no need of this when your sitting fairly still...and it drains too much current at this engine speed. The reason the light went out once revved was PROBABLY because the current came back up via charge/rpm...you might have just been on that voltage trip threashold...which does makes sense. Just my opinion after sitting in traffic for many miles on mine...3k+ now and climbing. | ||
| Chevycummins |
Check for history codes. Hold down both buttons on the cluster and turn the key on, then they can be displayed. | ||
| Baggermike |
Slyp is right, I have had this problem and as I rev the motor the engine light will go off, if you get into dio mode you will probably see a voltage code, no big deal the bike can not handle the extra load of the high beams under 3000 rpm driving, so just shut them off in traffic. I use to ride with the high beams on but no longer do, if you are doing it for safety then get a headlight modulator or hid lights, the modulator saves watts because the lights are on half the time while flashing. the hid lights can not be modulated but are brighter and give off a light that stands out from most other cars. | ||
| Blake |
"no big deal the bike can not handle the extra load of the high beams under 3000 rpm driving," That is false. If your bike behaves that way, then something is faulty on it. | ||
| Blake |
Maybe you meant to write "2000 rpm"? | ||
| Baggermike |
Yes Blake I got confused with the bikes being designed to run high beams and heated grips over 3000 rpms and that riding under 2000 rpms can cause a discharging situation. You can go on the F A Q on Buell.com and type in electrical and the 1125R's electrical system will show up and give this info. | ||
| Bigdog_tim |
Thanks all. That must have been the situation - a discharging situation in heavy (and very slow) traffic. I suspected it might be. On a totally off topic note - I got in a 600 mile day yesterday. WOW - I do love this bike. It is absolutely amazing how fast you can get to triple digits. And how smooth it feels. I lost the chicken strips yesterday - never scraped pegs but did scrape boots on both sides. Only time I had felt a little loss of control was a wheelie in 2nd gear (that came a little unexpected).  | ||
| Blake |
That's good news Tim. Thanks for the feedback. Mike, "the bikes being designed to run high beams and heated grips over 3000 rpms" That is still inaccurate. What the Buell 1125R Charging System FAQ says: This system is designed to maintain and recover the battery's charge under normal operating conditions, which is considered ride time over 3000 rpm's. In some instances, the duty cycle and current draw may create a charging system deficit below 2000 RPM's. In riding situations where the customer experiences excessive idle time or extended riding below 2000 RPM's or is using high wattage accessories in conjunction with the high beams under 2000 RPM's, it may cause the charging system to operate at a deficit. In any of these situations, maintenance with a Battery Tender is recommended while the vehicle is not in use. | ||
| Baggermike |
Blake it say's before what you wrote that it is designed to manage the original equipment manufacturers vehicle electrical loads and the ten amp accessory plug or heated grips, then it goes on saying what you wrote above, so my interpatation is the vehicles low and high beams on and everything else the bike uses plus the ten amp accessory plug or heated grips above 3000 rpms, nothing else just what the bike comes with and heated grips. Blake can you explain to me were I am wrong?. Mike | ||
| Slypiranna |
Again, turn off high beams in very slow, mph/rpm, traffic conditions. I don't think that this is too hard to remember. There is a switch on the port side handle control to play with... Which reminds me...this bike's lighting. 6 Forward Beams Available If Needed!? Most others are lucky to have 4...WITH THEIR HIGH BEAMS ON! Even without highbeams on, the Buell 1125R has MORE than sufficient lumination, night or day. I have very, very rarely used the h-beams on this bike. Next time you go to bike night...or day...start your 11 and have another parked next to you do the same...then, take twenty steps back and looksee at what an oncomer car/truck driver might witness. You might be surprised in this simple test. Maybe some of us are just conditioned to older/different current models of lesser lighting tech and take this for granted that high beams are absolute ness'y, all the time? And while sitting still? Come on. And..unless I'm mistaken, the accessory load circuit will open if supply voltage drops to threshold minimums, via ecu...whomever has their paws on the electrical manual now, verify this please. For the record, NEVER a tender on my 11, 3500+miles now, currently in the southern heat, stop and go traffic, 6+ amps of additional electrical loads and ten day, no start/run intervals...do to out of state travel. Never a failed battery/startup issue since new in Jan of this year. Good luck and ride safe, m&m | ||
| Baggermike |
The ecm is programed to shut off the accessory outlet if the battery gets to low, I got a light hooked up to my accessory outlet to let me know if the battery gets low and I have never seen it go off yet and I have not used the battery tender either, also hooked up 35 watt hid lights, and do not use the high beams, if I need the high beams the low beams would have to shut off, I found out on a other bike that the spot lights put to much light out in front of the bike and hurt my long distance vision, when I figured this out and shut them off I could see further down the road, the low beams hid put out allot of light in front of the bike like the spot lights did so I will have the same effect with the low beams putting to much light in front of the bike and hurt my long distance vision, I am going to hook up a switch so I can just have the high beams on alone for those dark lonely nights in the middle of no were so I can see as far as possible. | ||
| Dentguy |
I got stuck in stop and go traffic today for almost 2 hours. I did have my bright headlights on. I tend to think it was telling me that the battery was discharging. I think it was telling you to turn off the high beams. I'm sure you got the message already from other comments, but that may irritate somebody enough to lock up their brakes in front of you or run you off the road. Traffic is bad. Traffic with high beams in the mirrors can push people over the edge. (Message edited by dentguy on April 28, 2008) | ||
| Blake |
Mike, You are reading something that is not stated. I'm reading what is stated. See the red in the above. They only ever mention a deficit issue for operation under 2000 rpm. | ||
| Blake |
What it states is that at 3000 rpm and above the system will not only maintain, but recover the battery's charge. I read that to mean that at 2000 rpm the system may not recover charge, but it will maintain it, meaning no deficit power drain on the battery. | ||
| Baggermike |
OK Blake so the bike is designed to run high beams and heated grips at 3000 rpms with out draining the battery? this is what I am reading and I also was told this, so is this right or wrong? I am all confused by what I have been told and what I have seen, there is a saying to believe in nothing of what you here and half of what you see. | ||
| Blake |
Mike, What I understand from reading the Buell FAQ on the 1125R charging system is that at 3000 rpm and above, the 1125R is designed to recharge the battery even when running high beams and using the 10 amp accessory supply at that speed. Between 2000 and 3000 rpm, the bike is designed to not operate at an electrical power deficit, meaning it won't drain the battery, when running high beam and using the 10 amp accessory supply. At that low engine speed and with full capacity electrical loading, the 1125R charging system may not provide enough power to recharge the battery. | ||
| Baggermike |
Hi Blake this charging system is better than I thought then, I have not replaced my voltage regulator yet do to lack of money but soon will, My bike is not doing what you say it should from above and know it is the voltage regulator so I am replacing it and getting a new battery just to be sure, I tested the stator and it is good, someone on here gave me the info I needed to test and was what Cody was suppose to give me and I still have never got anything from him. | ||
| Ducxl |
I have not replaced my voltage regulator yet do to lack of money but soon will, HUH??? You voided your warrantee? BMC won't honor your warrantee? | ||
| Blake |
Mike, You really ought to let a Buell dealership handle any warranty repair. | ||
| Baggermike |
Blake and Ducxl I have had it with both BMC and my dealerships service department, the aggravation to go to the dealership again is not worth it, I had asked the shop manager if he could get the info from BMC and if thursday was a good day to ride up to Maine a 220 mile round trip and when I got there he has every thursday off, nobody else new anything then I learned they could have got the info from BMC with a call or computer, I was told there is a guy who does not like Buells that works there, so the time gas and tolls comes out to half what the V R cost, the other shop that Cody had me bring the bike into told me the bike is fine, I can only take so much BS and will save myself from getting more pissed off by doing it myself. | ||
| Ustorque |
mike if you bike is covered under warranty it will be honored at any buell dealer not just the one you bought it at in maine.... my fear mike is that the more tampering you do on that thing the sooner you may actually void the warranty once and for all. please think about it a little before you continue down this road...give another dealer a shot and see if they can square you away. maybe give Manchester HD a shot ...not my favorite but its not too far from ya and it can't make your situation any worse. on a side note wherever you take it i think you seriously need to consider dropping the bike off and leaving there...showing up at the dealer and standing there expecting the bike back fixed the same day probably is not helping the matter. (Message edited by ustorque on April 29, 2008) | ||
| Baggermike |
Thanks Ustorque maybe you are right, but two dealerships have told me the bike is fine, I have not used a battery tender and the bike has been starting fine but seems like every time I take it out I come back there is less power in the battery and I am only using low beams and gps nothing else that would take power and I have a led tail light and led running lights so I am saving power not using it and right now it is at 12.37 volts measured at the battery, I think I will take your advice and try one more dealership, it will not hurt as long as I do not have to leave it there. Mike | ||
| Ustorque |
mike i think that is probably one of the biggest issues you are gonna have .... is you inability or unwillingness to leave the bike. i'm glad you're willing to give another dealer a try but you need to give them the time( a reasonable amount ) and space to diagnose and repair whatever problems may exist. set a time to bring the bike in. make arrangements for other wheels(tell your son you need the uly). clearly tell service the issues you are having. and under no circumstances should you tell them about any testing or other info they do not need that you have. testing you have done on your own could very well be incorrect and will only muddy up the situation, stick with the facts as you see them as to how the bike is not performing and that is it. you may find this approach helps you, and i hope it does. manchester does have a dedicated buell tech and by now i'm sure he attended the 1125 classes. you may also want to speak to Jake in sales he is a buell owner and fairly familiar with the 1125, he may be able to help you relay you issues to the service dept. but i can't stress enough not to offer any additional info other than your concerns. if i were you may statement to srevice would go like this..."i don't think my charging system is working properly, could you please check it out for me and let me know what you find". NO additional info unless they ask for it. i'm sure they will ask how you came to think this. if thats the case tell them what you are running for powered gear.."i use my high beams,GPS, and heated grips and i have notice that it drains the system, could you please check it out and tell me what you find". once agian NO ADDITIONAL INFO just the facts. i hope you don't think i'm being an ass mike but i have a feeling you are probably overwhelming the guys with too much info, and i got a good feeling if you try it this way you may finally get the answers you are lookin for...but again you're gonna have to leave the bike there, and give these guys time to work, they will appreciate it and show you by helping you solve you issues. when people are rushed and told it's needed today they are less likely to do a thorough job. (Message edited by ustorque on April 29, 2008) | ||
| Baggermike |
Ustorque I do not think you are being an ass I think you are trying to help me. I have to go up to my dealership to get some paperwork and order parts for the bike, I will have them test the bike while I am there which I know they will. | ||
| Blake |
MIKE! "I will have them test the bike while I am there which I know they will." That is the wrong approach to take in my humble opinion. It may also be entirely unhelpful and ineffective. In my view, the correct approach is to sit down patiently with the service manager and Buell tech and explain in precise detail the problem(s). Avoid ANY personal diagnostic tips/advice/requests; just describe the problem(s) and let the experts resolve it/them. Do not get into any kind of discussion or debate about the problem's possible cause or resolution, just inform the experts as best you can all about the symptoms and issues that you deem problematic. That approach is your one and only best recourse to resolve the issue. If you can't be bothered to take the bike to a Buell dealer--one of the dealers you mentioned was not, am I correct?--so that they can have a fair chance at identifying and fixing the problem, I just don't know what else to say. I don't care what dealership you go to, car, truck, motorcycle, the normal mode of operation is that you LEAVE the vehicle with them. They may or may not be reputable enough to provide you with a loaner vehicle. I think they should if your bike is under warranty. Based upon your past experience with the guy ditching you, I'd be sure to secure some assurance that you will be suppported as promised, and get their promise ahead of time as to what they intend to do to support you. | ||
| Blake |
Whoa. I see I pretty much duplicated Shawn's advice. Cool. Thanks Shawn for taking time to try to help our friend Mike.  | ||
| Baggermike |
Thanks Guys I will give this a try and hope I get some were this time, I think I might have to wait a while so I can do this, my son will have the ulysses on the road in three weeks and can follow me to any dealership and I think I will see if the guys in the N E B O group can help me with selecting a dealership. This will be the third time leaving the bike at a dealership and having nothing done or explained why the bike is not charging like it should, I rode the highway for over an hour with the low and high beams on at 3200 rpms and the battery discharged, Blake if I understand what you wrote this should not be happening right just low and high beams and gps, so Blake is this correct in your eye's that the bike should have charged the battery at 3200 rpms for over an hour of highway riding and when I left I took it off the battery tender so the battery was fully charged. From what I understand from what you wrote is that the bike should charge the battery at over 3000 rpms with low and high beams and heated grips on, let me know? I still think it is easy just to buy a new voltage regulator and be done. Mike | ||
| Ducxl |
Pinning Blake down for an answer will not fix the bike. I still think it is easy just to buy a new voltage regulator and be done. THen.....just go ahead and fix (or attempt a fix) yourself.What will you consider replacing in the event your self-diagnosis (without proper manuals) doesn't affect a solution? I keep hearing the same "they promised thursday" and the Buell call where "he promised to call back". Maybe.....MAYBE you're overwhelming the dealer and BMC with your self-diagnosis? Maybe? Maybe...NOT? Maybe you should just buy a Ducati instead. Nationally renowned dealer in Laconia..ya know  |
