| Author | Message | ||
     Adrenaline0210 |
Hey guys, Looks like my rear temp sensor is faulty on my 03xb9s. wait now i do believe this is the second one. first one was under warrenty. My questions are how much of a pain is it to change, I mean I had the whole motor out and had to repair the rear cylinder so I dont mind working on things however Im so sick of turning wrenches on this thing. The other thought was what exactly does this do? I mean my original thoughts are that it just tells the fan when to turn on and if thats so im thinking on just wireing a switch for the fan and when im not on the highway just flip it on unless of coarse its a chilly day. Im looking at where the wire goes into the rear cylinder and kinda scared haha. | ||
| Mr2shim |
That's what I thought it was for. To regulate the fan. Doesn't look easy to change though...... (Message edited by mr2shim on April 21, 2008) | ||
| Sgthigg |
I am pretty sure based on how hot the motor is, it richens it up untill the engine is up to temperature. Like a choke. Also I think it does more like protecting the motor and putting it into the skip/retard spark mode when it get too hot, and some other schtuff too. Your better of leaving it. The real question is.. How come your sensors are going bad? I suggest getting to the root cause of that instead and try to fix it. It might actually be easier. I found a couple frayed areas on mine after I took it to the Stealership. So I wrapped it in a wire shielding to prevent any further rubbing. To remove it you need a special slotted socket that Al sells. I think there is a work around to it though if your in a pinch. Someone on here I bet knows. | ||
| Jos51700 |
It controls 90% of what your bike does, from engine fueling, to fan operation, to heat management mode, etc. Replace it. It lives dead-center in the top of the rear rocker box, and it's easy to get at. BUT, you'll need a sensor-socket, with a slot in the side for the wire. 9/16" if memory serves, which Sears or any tooltruck sells...(The wire terminates under the airbox base, one wire). No tape or loctite going back in as it needs a good ground, and no mega-torque, please. How do you know they're going bad? | ||
| Adrenaline0210 |
I have my engine light on and when running the fan never kicks on so that tells me either bad fan or the temp sensor is not working properly and its not telling the ecu to manage it. I looked on the wire coming out of the rocker box cover and it is in fact frayed. This time around I am def going to wrap that up in electrical tape or the like to prevent it from happening again. I know for a fact that it is the temp sensor becuase I terminated the pinout on the trouble code plugin and got the error code for the temp sensor, no other code came out. Moms smart so I had her watch with me. Ya My father works in the manchester area so hes gonna swing in to the hd... unfortunatly for me no matter what its a half hr drive to any buell parts which sucks working the 9-5. | ||
| Jos51700 |
The tempsensor has a fiber outer cover that will fray, in fact they appear that way new. If the temp sensor is indeed bad, the bike could do a number of things, including run really really rich all the time, not idle when cold, etc. Since you don't mention any driveability issues, I doubt (heavily) that the ET sensor is bad and i think there's some other issue, but let us know if that fixes it. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
I changed mine a couple months ago. Buy a socket and take a 4" grinder w/ a cut blade to it. Score a slit up the side of the socket, there...Now you have a socket made for the temp sensor! I believe the engine needs to be rotated down a bit, makes life easy anyways. Then it is a five minute job. | ||
| Hogs |
FIREbOLT, CAN NOT ONE JUST USE A FLEX HEAD ETC WITHOUT HAVING TO ROTATE ENGINE, I DON`T THINK ONE HAS TO GO TO ALL THAT TO JUST CHANGE THE TEMP. SENSOR, ATLEAST MY HD. SHOP NEVER HAD TO??? Sorry about them caps...!Damn Button | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
You could try it first, I find it easier to rotate the motor, BUT I have also done it a few dozen times so it is just easier for me. That temp sensor is pretty far down to get it with out seeing it. You may spend more time fighting it off (and good luck getting it on after) if you can not see it... ATLEAST MY HD. SHOP NEVER HAD TO~~More reason to rotate it then.... Umm....a HD shop would be lucky to know where it even is. Never mind change it. And have them rotate a motor...YIKES!! I have absolutely NO TRUST IN ANY DEALERSHIP doing work on my bike. But that is a whole nother thread isn't it...LOL | ||
| Hogs |
Well I guess I should have said HD/ Buell shop.. as these guys in this Buell shop know there shit...! Not all shops are the same, And yes I do my own stuff as well, but at that time it was under warranty... | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
Well I guess I should have said HD/ Buell shop.. Nope makes no difference to me. But that is another thread right.. You may be able to get it with a swivel, but the frame makes it hard...Very hard. It is right in the way of where you need the extension off the swivel. I suppose if you want to fight it the whole way out...AND Like i said, GOOD LUCK getting it to start threading correctly putting it back in without seeing/feeling it.... Cross threading it can make a nightmare out of a simple job. Just rotate the motor, takes about 15 minutes (except the first time, that is an hour). Makes life easy, NO stress, and you can see it, feel it, even love it if you want. That sensor is the heart if your electronics...why chance it? | ||
| Adrenaline0210 |
Ya I think Im going to have to rotate the motor. I just hate pulling things apart that I put back togather, kinda sucks. And yes when its cold It usually will stall 2-3 times then it will idle really rough for a few min. All in all it doesnt run that well when driving. | ||
| Azxb9r |
I know for a fact that it is the temp sensor becuase I terminated the pinout on the trouble code plugin and got the error code for the temp sensor, no other code came out Keep in mind that a trouble code does not mean a bad part, it means that the ecm has seen a problem in that circuit. Having said that, temp. sensors do have a rather high failure rate. I would still want to test it before replacing it though. | ||
| Gowindward |
I have replaced mine without rotating the motor. Use a little patients grasshopper and all things are possible. Get the service manual, the snap-on socket the service manual calls out, and a pair of very long nosed needle nose pliers used to remove and replace the rubber boot on the sensor. | ||
| Hogs |
Right on Gowindward.. Good to point out that others can do things the easy way, without having to take the long way home...! | ||
| Jos51700 |
"And yes when its cold It usually will stall 2-3 times then it will idle really rough for a few min. All in all it doesnt run that well when driving." OK, I can see that. Let us know!! | ||
| Teddagreek |
Is it kicking on at least when you turn it off? Iron machine sells a cheaper socket than the snap on.. FYI | ||
| Adrenaline0210 |
You guys are going to get a real kick out of this one as I sit here and wimper. So I dig into it last night and say to myself ok this should be a piece of cake because i can clearly see it and I know I have a decnet amount of patients. Now mind you I had to take the whole motor out last year end of the season to fix a stripped rear cylinder plug. Sooo all in all the wire that comes off the sensor when we bolted down the rocker box got pinched in between the rocker box and the cylinder. So now it looks like I am going to have to rotate the motor down and slide my rocker box top off, rocker box plate lifted up slide the wire out, new gasket and get it all back togather. What a let down. I guess I can't say a whole lot considering its the first time ive ripped apart a motor and that was the only issue ive had. Now the question is what is the best method of supporting the bike to rotate the motor down, Im thinking on doing what I did when I pulled the motor in just hanging the front end up a bit by the handlebars on some rafters in the shed and having a motorcycle jack under the motor... unbolt it and lower it down just enough to get the job done. | ||
| Jos51700 |
That would work. You won't have to lower it much. I wouldn't jump through all the wire-diconnect hoops, just hit the x frame and motor mounts, and it should drop far enough just fine. | ||
| Adrenaline0210 |
Now should I get new gaskets? or will the new ones I just replaced end of last yr be ok.... weird enough is that it didnt leak at all even with that pinched wire in place. | ||
| New12r |
I put mine on a rearstand and put a jack under the motor, 30 min later it is down and ready for service. | ||
| Adrenaline0210 |
That makes me pretty damn happy to hear that way I can do it in the garage, Rather than a cramped shed, hanging from rafters. | ||
| Adrenaline0210 |
What is the minimum I have to unhook to get the motor to rotate, Yes I have the book but you know how that goes. They always have you unbolt a ton of unnessasary parts. | ||
| New12r |
For what you are doing there is no shortcut. | ||
| Adrenaline0210 |
Well I havnt posted here for some time but I do know one thing the badweb rocks for everyones commitment to helping out and suggestions. | ||
| Jos51700 |
If I am understanding correctly, you'll only need two gaskets, Rockerbox inner and outer. Undo airbox,side scoops and front-y frame (Buell calls it a w frame I think), loosen rear wheel 18 turns (Don't forget the pinch bolt), loosen rear mount, undo jesus bolt (motor on jack) and lower slowly. 1 inch or so should be plenty. Don't go too far, or wiring, clutch cable will bind, and Primary will hit Left side footpeg. | ||
| Adrenaline0210 |
arnt the rocker box gaskets re-usable however in that they are rubber? | ||
| Treadmarks |
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