| Author | Message | ||
     Xgecko |
Thanks for the warning however Chrome isn't something I would ever consider. I'm more of a black/gray type of person...though Performance Coatings also does a Blue like the X1WL that looks interesting | ||
| Leeaw |
Further warning then. My header was black when I got it, and it likes to get scratched. | ||
| Turnagain |
José, looks like Darren had better luck on this go 'round:  than when we saw him:  Steve(2) | ||
| Xgecko |
My header is much shorter than yours but that is still something to know. I'm looking at a hugely expensive $40 to coat my header  ...for that ultra expensive cost I think I can deal with a few little scratches | ||
| Buellman |
We are working hard on the new Sport Twin and Thunder Twin (HD) site but wanted to introduce everyone to one of our longtime parts guys Blake Meehan. Blake knows HD and Buells both and will be a regular visitor/poster to BWB as well as Sport Twin's forums. Improved customer service is a priority and Blake's sole purpose in life (his girlfriend is not aware of this) is to give a higher level of service to you guys not only concerning purchases but general Q&A as well. Many of you have communicated with Derek Tollenar in the past, he will also be dedicated to customer service instead of the one man show he has been in the past. They can be reached at: blake@sporttwin.com derek@sporttwin.com Our new phone number effective Monday is 972.930.0646 for all customer support and sales related questions. Brad Galbraith Sport Twin Admin | ||
| Pigspitt |
I am new to this site, but I have worked for Harley Davidson of Dallas for a little over a year now. If there are any questions I can answer then I would like to help. Please don't hesitate to write. Thanks Blake | ||
| Totway |
Aaron, I couldn't find castellated axle nuts so I milled slots in the stock nuts and made brass spacers/ washers to move the nuts out the same distance as the castle slots are deep. Now I need to find a way to coat/ plate the nuts to stop rust. | ||
| Ferris |
> Help!! I have a 2002 M2L Cyclone. I just came back from the beach and my headers and pipe are completely rusted. < aren't the pipes on later-model Cyclones made from stainless steel? if so, they don't (can't) rust, but WILL tarnish a bit depending on conditions. Mista, new #0000 steel wool and Mothers is a good way to begin, then if you're as anal as me, more Mothers, this time using a clean, soft rag as an applicator, will burnish the pipes to a rich, deep-silver luster. when then you next fire the bike, the pipes will turn a beautiful golden hue from the engine heat, and people will ask who did your pipes and how much it cost  every now and then, when the mood strikes, break out the Mothers and touch up the pipes, won't take more than a few minutes to make 'em happy again. by the way, if the thought of putting steel wool on your pipes gives you the willies (it shouldn't), try it out on a small section on the backside of the pipe, where no one can see if you bugger 'em up (you won't). ride to gleam, FB  | ||
| Tricklidz |
Looking to sell. Trackday. 8/5/2002 VIR-North Class: Intermediate Cost: $ 160.00 Contact: Steve @508-977-1818 508-758-9034 or E-mail ..Tricklidz@yahoo.com | ||
| Xgecko |
IT is a misconception that "Stainless steel" can't rust. In fact it can and does rust quite easily. The "stainless" is from the fact that the steel alloy is a combination of Chromium, Vandium and Nickle. But given the right condidtions it will rust just as easy as Carbon steel. Rust is oxidation, it happens to most metals except a few like gold and platinum | ||
| Jester |
This may be the wrong forum for this but here it goes: Can the fan for the S3 be adapted for the S2 models? | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Steve (turnagain) yep, he did much better up in the great white north than he did in the USA! Good luck to Darren and the Rest of the Buell racers this weekend up in Mosport in Canada for the FUSA races.  | ||
| Budo |
Are VROD's selling at all? A local dealer has six on the floor, priced at 18,999.00. Marked down from 22,500.00 a couple of months ago. Tho this dealer does not take deposits on bikes. Strictley first come first serve. | ||
| Ara |
There are many different grades of stainless steel. Some are stainless and rustproof, but many are not. | ||
| Xgecko |
well I have never seen a rust proof steel...I don't think it exists and if it does I'm not sure I would want to use it for anything since it would likely be very weak. Old submarine joke spoken by the crew of a sub that collided with a cargo ship(and most other submariners) while doing an under-hull "Nice try God but nothing gets through HY80" That steel and it's relatives HY100 and HY120 are some of the hardest most durable metals ever constructed (makes titanium look like balsawood) and but if they aren't kept painted they will rust as well. There are very few metals that don't oxidize/rust most of those are precious. | ||
| Buellbob |
I definitely disagree with you guys on the stainless issue. If "stainless" rusts the its pretty low grade and I would venture to say its borderline stainless. I am a machinist by trade working in the pulp & paper , saw mill equipment, waferboard industry since 1975. I've machined some of the toughest stainless you'll ever see and "free" machining stainless thats machines like butter. I've never seen stainless rust, in the pulp industry they use a "liquor" to process the wood chips that will eat through anything but it does'nt touch stainless parts or stainless overlay. I've seen parts come in with the overlay in great shape with all the base material underneath half gone. Look up Sulzer/Metco they are one of the biggest companies in the world and they use stainless steel almost exclusively for their surgical/medical tools, joint replacement pieces etc. because it doesn't rust or stain. Would you want these pieces in your body if they were prone to rusting? Also stainless is not weak. Look up any tensile strength table for steels and stainless, and depending on the grade of stainless it has a very high tensile strength. I made a 2 5/16 stainless trailer ball with a piece of stainless with a shear strength of 85,000 lbs. per inch. anyway thats MHO.  | ||
| Rick_A |
Yeah...definitely depends on the grade. I have plenty of surgical stainless stuck in me, and can attest to that. The shite don't rust or corrode in anyway. | ||
| Xgecko |
simple fact ferrous metal oxidizes. there are ferrous oxides that occur in steel alloys that are not rust but it is still in most cases considered a degredation of the metal. Titanium is always oxidized on the surface and then sealed to prevent degradation. Surgical stainless  I have some very expensive surgical stainless tools that I rescued from the trash where they were because they had rusted. It took me a while to clean the rust off. but now they are part of my camera repair toolbox. 316L and 316LVM are two of the more common grades of implant metal. Left exposed to water and air they will both rust in time. I've seen AUS10 rust, I couldn't tell you how high a quality stainless it is but it holds an edge almost as well as my carbon steel knives. I left my knife on the poarch for a week and oopps it was rusted when I returned. | ||
| Fogcity |
You left your knife or lost your knife? | ||
| Ara |
Here's another case in point. The exhaust system on my Nissan 4x4 has a joint with a three-bolt flange. Some years ago I replaced the bolts and nuts with stainless steel ones that I bought at my local Ace Hardware store. Recently I noticed a little rattle from the exhaust and inspected those SS bolts. My three bolts and nuts that had originally been bright and pretty were coated with a layer of fine oxidation. They were also loose. I've learned here that the regular SS fastners you buy at the hardware store aren't very strong. I replaced the bolts with Class 8 fasteners. They'll rust, too, but they'll stand up to the temperatures the exhaust system produces. Russ | ||
| Ferris |
< IT is a misconception that "Stainless steel" can't rust. In fact it can and does rust quite easily. > i can't claim to be the expert you are in all things stainless, but i know that 70,000 miles of Northwest rain failed to cause ANY rust to appear on the pipes on my '96 S2. yep, they'd get a little scummy looking at times, particularly in the winter-time, but i would classify what i was seeing as "tarnish" as opposed to "rust". and having spent the first 45 years of my life in the Rain Forest, i do know what rust is and what it looks like. my question still remains: aren't the pipes on late-model Cyclones made from stainless steel? and my assertion still remains: if they are, they don't (can't) rust. FB | ||
| Blake |
Yeah, Since 2000, all Buell twins got the stainless pipes. A nice new dry scotchbright pad is the best thing I've seen for quick touch-up of the Buell header pipes. I agree, I think "rust" is something that describes a chronic oxidation of iron and low alloy steels. In the right conditions, like on a poorly maintained offshore drilling rig, rust will eat completely through a large schedule 80 pipe or 1/2" plate in short time. Stainless steel, depending on grade and environment will oxidize, but it certainly will not "rust" in the same way iron or steel can. Nickel doesn't rust. BTW, if you ever want to be able to remove/loosen a stainless steel bolt/nut be sure to apply a coating of Never Seize upon first assembly. | ||
| Rick_A |
Xgecko...my surgical stainless has been stuck in my body for years...12 pieces in all in various places (some fairly unfriendly places  )...not a hint of any degradation whatsoever on any of them.  | ||
| Anonymous |
You know, with a slight change in brand name, I'll bet this guy could clean up from the BadWeb'ers... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1845184236 | ||
| Raymaines |
Some stainless steel attracts a magnet and some doesn’t. Did you guys know that? | ||
| Djkaplan |
Stainless steel comes in many different grades which all have differing properties. The austenitic grades are nonmagnetic in the annealed conditon, although some may become magnetic after cold working. These grades combine outstanding corrosion and heat resistance with good mechanical properties over a wide temperature range. The ferritic grades are always magnetic. They combine corrosion and heat resistance with moderate mechanical properties. The martensitic grades are magnetic. These grades are hardenable to the highest levels of all SS. They are excellent for service in mild environments but are not resistant to corrosive solutions. Machinery's Handbook, 25th edition By the way; an oxidized surface that seals and protects from further corrosion is called a patina. | ||
| Xgecko |
Fog, I left/lost in on my porch when on short notice I had to leave the country for a few weeks. The wife put all the tools on the porch into a wire box and then locked it to the railing. it took me another week or so to figure out where I had last used it. AUS 10 does rust. Rick A, that stainless is not exposed to AIR (at least I hope it isn't) which is what causes oxidation/rust. Ray yes many Stainless steels are non-magnetic, too much Vandium I think. I found this out in my present job working on Submarine Periscopes. Everything in the scope has to be non-magnetic so as to not influence any of the RF lines. Makes it a b1tch to remove and replace some of the non captive screws. Many donations to the Well-Gods | ||
| Djkaplan |
I'm no materials expert, I'm just reading this stuff in old textbooks; but I cannot find a reference to austenitic (nonmagnetic) stainless steels that contain Vanadium. I did, however, stumble across a martensitic (magnetic) grade 422 that contains .90 - 1.2% V. Could the material you are working with be a chromium-molybdenum alloy? I think I'll just mind my own business..... | ||
| Xgecko |
Could be...I did say "I think" I do know that the stuff is damn annoying  | ||
| Captpete |
Fogcity, "Stay Clam." The point wasn't testes, but profit, and you may have identified my market. You could maybe join my team, get rich, and buy multiple Buells... if you could just "Stay Clam." |
