| Author | Message | ||
     Dre99gsx |
Anyone have an idea on how to adjust the idle or have the method for cracking the butterfly valves open a tad? After a hot day, the bike has changed its personality. Anytime I am riding and I let off the throttle, it goes into complete deceleration. Usually, there is a bit of "tip in" in fuel or the throttle body has a surge pump which lets the bike decelerate smoothly. What sucks here is off-on-off throttle has become like an off-on switch, not as smooth as it used to be. Anyone else experience this? Or is this normal? To put it in other words, I remember when letting off the throttle, the RPMs wouldn't drop so quickly. Suddenly, it feels as if the fuel is completely shut off. The bike's idle has dropped by 200rpm as well. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I don't think it is normal. I have had the coolant up to 210 degrees and it still runs strong with no adverse affects (other than on my right leg.) | ||
| Zac4mac |
ECM runs idle, no adjustments. It's almost a "fly by wire" throttle, in that there's a stepper motor to control idle and that silver solenoid for "noise control". You have direct control with the throttle cables, but the ECM has an override. Hopefully the Electrical Diagnostic Manual has this explained. Either pull the airbox upper and lower and see if it's all running free and the throttle's adjusted, or ask the dealer to do it. edit> You might try looking thru this thread too about the TPS. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/349609.html?1207808939 It is a quick revving motor but I've not thought of mine as "on-off" except when I want her to be. Z (Message edited by zac4mac on April 21, 2008) | ||
| Dalton_gang |
I agree with Grandma Zac about adjusting the pulling throttle cable. It made a noticeable improvement on mine and it really wasn`t that bad to begin with. Sorry Zac I couldn`t resist.  | ||
| Vincent |
Even though the ecm controls idle, i believe there is a manual adjustment. Almost has to be to allow the butterflies to be open 2% right. I was looking around in there when the solenoid was giving me trouble and it looked as though it can be adjusted. Not sure but will verify tomorrow. | ||
| Zac4mac |
It's all good, Neal. I guess until somebody gets more miles than me on a back tire... I really can't imagine having more fun than I'm having now... other than cleaner roads and a little more lean. Now if I could hang out at Asbjorn's place for a month or two... Vincent, good luck, I did see in the E. Manual where it said the idle is non-adjustable. Controlled by the ECM and a stepper motor. All you can do is set the TPS zero point/span - 2% -100%; see thread on TPS Z | ||
| Doerman |
Now if I could hang out at Asbjorn's place for a month or two... You're always welcome, Zack | ||
| Dalton_gang |
Vincent, There is a set screw for adjusting the throttle stop. It is sealed from the factory and is not very accessible. I guess you could play with it and try to smooth out the spot where it transfers from the idle circuit to the main. | ||
| Dre99gsx |
I can try disabling the noise-solenoid. I wonder if the ecu compensates for any movement of that noise-solenoid with less fuel. Disabling it might have other consequences. I checked in there and saw no binding. What used to happen is at idle, if you let the clutch out until it starts grabbing, the rpms would rise a bit. That stopped now. So something changed. It is annoying since the rpms drop so damn fast when trying to change gears "calmly" as I used to when just cruising. | ||
| Bigblock |
If my bike had a sudden change in behaviour like this, I would take it in to the dealer ASAP. It sounds like you definitely have a problem, let the warranty fix it for you. I wouldn't mess around with cables or airboxes or anything of the sort, unless it was running properly to begin with. Just my opinion. Good luck with getting it right. | ||
| Slypiranna |
NONE of the above applies here. DO NOT TOUCH the factory setting of the throttle blade angle!...YOU'VE been warned now. Take the bike to the dealer and let them do what your warranty is for. Just trying to help so don't take it the wrong way...again, dealership/warranty will resolve these issues. | ||
| Dre99gsx |
I'm assuming out of those who read here, I'm the only one experiencing this? Add to it the bike stalling about 3 times a day when pulling in the clutch lever from 6k rpm or so? I noticed we can monitor the IAC setting via diagnostics. On cars, if the IAC is maxed, you can't get the idle higher than you need. We usually adjust the plate to allow a tad more bleed-in, allowing the ECU to readjust the IAC. There seems to be 3 or 4 adjustmnet screws for this on the 1125r TB. Sure I can take this to the dealer, but it seems almost impossible to schedule a day to drop it off. They seem to never be available when I can take off of work. 2nd, I heard rumors that they still charge you $400+ labor for diagnostic work, next to the actual repair work. Not digging that if its true. | ||
| Bigblock |
A bike that doesn't idle , and dies on the clutch pull, is a warranty issue. You should most definitely NOT be charged for this. If you are concerned about this, call Buell customer service before you take it in. This sounds like it might possibly be something other than an adjustment for idle, as it was working properly, as you say, and then started acting funny. I would definitely let Buell handle this one. If it were me. | ||
| Bigblock |
And, no, I have not experienced this on my bike, and iT does not sound normal. Atleast, if I understand your symptoms correctly, and it is the sudden change in behaviour that sets my alarms off... | ||
| Smoke |
my warranty issues have left me with no charge at pickup!!! Baton Rouge Harley Buell and Buell Corporate have been outstanding. tim | ||
| Zac4mac |
Andre - don't mess with any screws. If it's not something simple like a cable rubbing or misrouted. WARRANTY Take it in to the dealer or get them to come pick it up. WARRANTY - should be no cost to you. Zack |
