| Author | Message | ||
     X1nut |
Anyone out there in Buellworld know how to keep the front brackets & clamps from breaking on my 2000 x1 race kit? This is the 3rd set now, and my dealer still doesn't keep 'em in stock...I guess maybe I should just keep 10 or so and carry spares? What happens if I'm 200 miles away from home and the front bracket or clamp breaks? Is the exhaust going to break off and catapult me into space? I can just hear the news flash at 6: "a motorcyclist has just set the new record for flight without an airplane today..."   | ||
| Blake |
First, based on your previous posts, if you haven't already, please reconsider lugging your X1 at such low (<2700 rpm) engine speeds. The resulting vibration is no bueno. Second, if you have a repetitive problem with chin fairing mounts breaking, even after adapting your riding hapits to better suit the Buell power plant, you might want to string some safety wire around your muffler as a safety catch, just in case. I found a SUPER BEFY clamp that I use on my Borla's front mount (same as race header mount). Found it at http://mcmaster.com . Check out part #'s 4483K13 and 5443K29. These clamps will not brake. Check size to be sure of proper fit.  | ||
| Joebuell |
EXHAUST WOES... I'm trying to fit a dynomax muffler (2.5"inlet) onto my X1 with the stock header. Does anyone have an elbow that will fit? I need to make that bend from the collector to the muffler and I have no pipe bending skills whatsoever. Much gratitude to all that help. joebuell | ||
| X1nut |
Blake, Uh, I don't know how to say this, but here goes...I'm tellin' ya dude, I don't lug the engine. I know what that does. It's hard on the entire drivetrain. The only time my engine even sees less than 3000 rpm is when it's idling or I'm coming to a stop. And even then, I don't lug it. C'mon, now I've been riding bikes for 23 years, and have other, large displacment bikes (113" S&S evo-style. If you lug one of those, you'll be buying new jugs). Besides, I have several friends with 2000 X1's that have the exact same problem with the chin fairing and exhaust brackets on the race kits. Usually my chin fairing bracket breaks after doing 130 for a while. Could it be the downforce? It seems like they really do provide downforce when you are running that fast. In your post, you recommended safety wire for my exhaust when my chin fairing bracket breaks...I don't understand. Anyway, thanks for the info on the clamp from Mcmaster. | ||
| Marlboro |
I just put an V&H pipe on my 2002 m2. 1st of all it was very difficult to get the stock pipe off. I basically had to lay the bike almost on its side to get it out. 2nd, I had to force the new pipe in place because it did not fit/ lie where it was supposed to. I then had to drill a new hole so the front mount could fit in. I still don't think I have the rear mount tightened enough because I just cannot get tools in there to thighten the bolt and hold the nut at the same time. How did you guys do this? Sure is a cool sound though. I have a 195 jet and a 45 jet, are these the correct ones. Do I need a forcewinder or k&N air filter?? The bike seems to almost be a bit slower than before!! Is this normal or is it just the jetting problem. sean | ||
| Blake |
X1nut, I guess I was confused by your assertions earlier? As I recall from the discussion recently on the "Engine - Carburetion, Fuel Injection..." KV topic you stated... "Mine 2000 x1 surges at low rpms, (like when going through a school zone), but that's just the nature of the beast, perfectly normal." Then when asked "Why do you say that surging at low speeds is normal?" you replied... "Every V twin, air cooled, pushrod, fuel injected bike over 1000cc that I've ridden just wont run smoothly under 2200 rpm." Now you claim that you "don't lug your engine", that "The only time my engine even sees less than 3000 rpm is when it's idling or I'm coming to a stop." Am I confused?  The safety wire suggestion was in response to your catapulting muffler concern. Sorry for the confusing wording. "Confused" seems to be an operative word in our discussions. | ||
| Leeaw |
Marlboro, It is tricky to get the rear bolts in. I have to get them in with my fingers and then tighten with an open-end wrench. The rear bolts take longer than anything else when installing the V&H, and I have often thought about tossing it for something else. | ||
| Mounty911 |
can anybody give me information on the BUB BIGDOG dual pipes for buell's..... are they loud? are they well made ect...... | ||
| Henrik |
Torque specs?? Can someone please provide the torque specs for the 2 long bolts holding the front shock mount and the exhaust header support bracket? I've looked through the manual, but didn't find the info in the logical places: header installation (where the bolt and bracket is shown in a diagram) or shock installation. I'm in the process of mounting a race header with a reinforced, old style Supertrapp IDS on the S2 with the updated header support bracket and Aaron's header-strap-to-clamp support system. I'll post a picture or two when everything is in place. Henrik | ||
| Buelliedan |
Henrik, I think you are being too much of a perfectionist. Might I suggest German Torque and be done with it. you know: gudentight  | ||
| Aaron |
Henrik: I bet you didn't look in that service bulletin for the new Y mount that's linked from the top of this page ... it sez 30-33ft/lbs with Loctite blue ... Dan's method would probably work as well  | ||
| Henrik |
Now, Dan, what ever gave you that impression Aaron; thanks - of course I didn't. That would have been too easy ... But now I have it printed, and should be good to go. Thanks guys Henrik | ||
| Court |
Duh.....some of you guys have, quite obviously, never met the good Doctor. My bet is that he will have the torque wrench calibrated and certified and pull tangent to the longitudinal axis of the shaft..... That's my Henrik! | ||
| Blake |
Puilling "tangent to the longitudinal shaft"?  . Court, I can't figure if you meant that as a lewd joke, or if you really meant to say "orthogonally" instead of "tangent." See what it takes to get me back from lurk mode.  | ||
| X1glider |
I need some size info. (not in reference to the above 2 posts, alright?!) The belly pan for my X1 is designed to work with the Buell race header. It just won't work with the stock header and can. What I need to know is, for anyone who has the Buell race setup, is how long and the diameter of the muffler is. My aim is the use the Buell race header and the D&D can with it (this what SportTwin recommends to me). I want to avoid using the Buell can at all costs, just don't feel like repacking it every 1k and I hear the D&D gives a little more power too. If anyone has the D&D can (um, Buelliedan?!?) can you measure it too? I want to compare the dimensions. Thanks. Trying to get on the track for Aug. 10. | ||
| Dave |
What's the diff in the 98 S1W Stock and Race Header? (2.5" and 3"?) Will a post '99 Race Muffler fit on the 98 S1W Race Header? Best Performance? Buell Race Header & Muffler vs Stock S1W Header w/Vance and Hines. (Gut says Buell Race System) Does an S2 header only fit an S2? Does ceramic coating (Jet Hot Coat) fill scratches or would it need to be ground smooth? DAve | ||
| X1glider |
Dave, the people Jet Hot will strip the the header and blast a fine finish on it for the coating to adhere to. Scratches (unless they are DEEP) will get filled so they won't be noticeable. I love Jet Hot. It's at least 20 deg F cooler by my leg and the Sterling finish has a 3.2 rms finish so the gasses exit real fast. The black finish, however is rougher and not very durable but the heat dissipates real quick. After a hard day of riding I can clamp my hand around the pipes 5 minutes after shut off and not burn myself. Pricing is good too. | ||
| Aaron |
"What's the diff in the 98 S1W Stock and Race Header? (2.5" and 3"?)" The main difference is the longer head pipes on the race header. The collector is under the motor instead of in front of it. I'm pretty sure they're both 2.5" outlets. "Will a post '99 Race Muffler fit on the 98 S1W Race Header?" I don't know, but for what it's worth, they carry different part numbers ... 65398-96Y for the early race muffler, 91424-99Y for the later race muffler. "Best Performance? Buell Race Header & Muffler vs Stock S1W Header w/Vance and Hines. (Gut says Buell Race System)" Trust your gut. Hmm, mine says I'm hungry. "Does an S2 header only fit an S2?" Hmm, I'm not certain on this one. I know that non-S2 '96-'98 headers will go on an S2 with a different air cleaner, but I'm not positive the S2 header will go on the other bikes. It only has a 2" outlet, though, why would you want it? | ||
| Dave |
Thanks for the input so far Bob K and AAron. I guess I should expand more and be less specific. Situation: S2 with scuffed stock header mated to an older D&D S1W with scuffed stock header mated to a V&H. Possibility at getting a S1W stock header for $135 Recommended optimum solution? DAve | ||
| Paisan |
Blake...Aaron....or any one who has knowledge I picked up a used wileyco pipe for my 99m2 recently but it needs repacking. Does anyone know where I can get stainless steel wool for this? I have already tried wileyco but they have yet(after 2 weeks) to get back to me. thanks. | ||
| Peter |
Tat has muffler packing for the Pro Series mufflers here. PPiA | ||
| Paisan |
tat says that the stuff he sells is for the buell race can only. any other help? | ||
| Mikej |
I picked up some Buell race can muffler stuffing at the sidewalk sale. Was thinking I could just cut it to fit and stuff it in. Was I wrong in thinking this? This if for the reinstall of the WileyCo to the M2. Maybe I'll just buy some bulk SOS steel wool pads at SamsClub and stuff those in there instead. When it rains maybe I'd blow bubbles. | ||
| Josh |
DAve: Optimum is race headers and a free flow muffler (you should check out my Stainless Specialties one). As far as fitting, Kevyn lent me the race muffler from his 98 S1 to put on my 99 S3 (with race header) which fit fine. We then moved it (with lots of cursing and fine tuning) to his S2 when I got the SS. If you go with a SS, don't do what I did and get the 3" outlet. It's too loud. I'm actually considering selling it for a race can as I prefer its mounts and sound. Josh | ||
| Jerome |
Regarding a muffler fitting the Buell race header, I've installed a month ago the HSA Pro Race muffler, made in Germany (check it out at www.hsaexhaust.de, sub-topic "Produkte", direct link to the picture : HSA Pro Race muffler) and I'm very very happy with it ! It is made of a half-length core tube ending into a small chamber in the middle of the muffler, from which a second core tube leads to the exit. The sound is very nice, with a good deep rumble, not as deep as the D&D (I've installed it on my Buell for only 30 miles, beautiful sound but far too loud for my personal taste), but still pretty sexy, and much important, reasonably loud ! I mean , at wide open throttle, it is as loud as a SuperTrapp with 15 disks, but on part throttle, it is quiet enough to go around towns without bringing nasty eyes on the bike. Performance speaking, I rate it "excellent". Seat of the pants measurements, it is more powerful at every rpm than the SuperTrapp (even with 20 disks, the maximum that I put on mine before it definitely broke) and the D&D. Note that my carburation was perfectly setup for each of them, thanks to the on-board air/fuel gauge. It is well designed, with nice weldings and a chrome finish. The only critics concern the rear mount : it is made of two welded plates and I suspect that the welding will suffer with time. Lastly, the packing is stainless steel, so there's no need to repack. I will stay with it until it breaks (hopefully not too early...). Note that there's a guy speaking english at HSA, they answer to e-mails, and they accept credit cards. So purchase should be not too difficult from abroad and overseas. It would be nice that Battle2Win gives it a try soon, and reports its performance on a dyno. | ||
| Necteau |
Hey Guys! My Appointment was today and I finally got everything installed! My Full D&D system, K&N, and my ECM. Wow what a change. THis system is loud but I love it. Just on the quick ride from the shop to my office I could tell there is a huge power difference and a lot more heads turned too haha.  I am going to post a picture soon and you guys can tell what I should do next to it. |
