| Author | Message | ||
     Grancuda |
I am in the process of adding a tip to my Force pipe because I am tired of all the soot that is getting put on the swing arm/brake caliper/wheel. I have mocked up how the tip is going to go on and I am planning on using 4 allen head screws on it. Anyone see any potential problems with adding this? It is super close to the kick stand when the kick stand is swinging up/down but isn't bad once it is up or down. I am planning on using semi-flat black header paint on it so it will match. http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/41611/2607048380 052655310S425x425Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/41237/2882891960 052655310S500x500Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/41862/2047139690 052655310S500x500Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb61.webshots.com/16572/2935881130 052655310S500x500Q85.jpg | ||
| Dueller |
Looks good. With all that silver/chrome might look good in $tainle$$. Very similar to how my race muff exits on my S1W. Make a great, if not loud, leaf blower. (Message edited by dueller on March 21, 2008) (Message edited by dueller on March 21, 2008) | ||
| Grancuda |
Looks good. With all that silver/chrome might look good in $tainle$$. Very similar to how my race muff exits on my S1W. Make a great, if not loud, leaf blower. I actually thought about hitting it with some scotch brite because the tip is made of aluminized pipe so it won't rust. | ||
| Chasespeed |
You dont like soot? Cool, come clean my truck... HA.. Seriously, I do sorta like the look. Any noticeable changes? Sound? Volume? Butt Dyno? Chase | ||
| Olbolt |
Do you think it will kick up much dust at low speeds? | ||
| Cecil1 |
Interested in making 2? This is the reason my S1W Sits in the garage most of the time. I hate how the force pipe spits all over the white wheel. | ||
| Grancuda |
Interested in making 2? This is the reason my S1W Sits in the garage most of the time. I hate how the force pipe spits all over the white wheel. Not really. All I did was go to the muffler shop and got a 3" aluminized turn down and had them chop 2" off the inlet end to shorten it up and had them put it in their stretcher till ti was larger enough to fit over my header. Then I bolted it up to the header. It wasn't too hard to do really. Also, once I tighend it down it clears the kickstand by 1" so it isn't even an issue now. I rubbed it down with a scotch brite to give it a brushed look. Now I just need to clean the swing arm and rear wheel. Here is the finished product.    | ||
| Grancuda |
Any noticeable changes? Sound? Volume? Butt Dyno? This didn't change the sound and it shouldn't change the flow since it is a 3" pipe and the pipe coming out is the same. I will take it for a ride this week to see though. | ||
| Cecil1 |
Thanks for the idea Grancuda. This definitely sounds easy enough. Please update when you take it for a ride if it keeps the crap off your wheel I think I might try this. | ||
| Stroken_willie |
HEY GUYS-I'M NEW TO THE WEB SITE/USER- I'VE WENT THRU THIS PROCESS SEVERAL YEARS AGO-GRANCUDA,NICE RIDE-BUT ITS ALL ABOUT THE LENGHT-IT'S TOO LONG-THE EXHAUST TIP THAT IS-MY SET UP WAS DONE WITH A BUICK EXHAUST TIP/WELDED INSIDE AND THE TURN WASN'T TOWARDS THE GROUND BUT LEVEL W/THE EXHAUST {NOT THAT THAT MATTERS}-KEEP CUTTING AND DRIVE IT TILL IT WAKES UP-BELIEVE ME YOUR'LL KNOW-ITS THAT OBVIOUS | ||
| Grancuda |
Actually it seems to have more power now than it did before. I have rode it about 60 miles this morning and it seems to have more roll on power than before. I rode it 1 week ago and it didn't feel like this. I need to get it back on the dyno to see if it really did make a difference if it lowered power I will shorten it but as it stands I think it is better than before. When I get home tonight I will see how clean the wheel/swing arm are with this setup. | ||
| Cecil1 |
Grancuda any update? Did it help with the soot? | ||
| Grancuda |
This cured my problem of getting exhaust soot all over the swingarm/wheel. It stays clean now and it is a big improvement. Also, it seems to have more roll on power in 5th gear at speed and a slight increase across the entire rpm range. I would like to get it back on the dyno to verify this. It is a big improvement for only $20. All I bought was a 3" aluminized turn down had 2" cut off the inlet end of it and had it stretched to fit about 3/8 up the cone on the end of the header. I used 2 stainless 1/4-20 3/4 long Socket Cap(allen head) screws and lock washers and lock nuts w/red lock tight to attach it. The hardest part of the whole deal is putting nuts on the inside to hold the tip on but with the right needle nose and having the pipe off it wasn't too bad. | ||
| Cecil1 |
Thanks for the info and idea Grancuda. this sounds like a much better(cheaper) option to replacing the header and pipe. Once the weather gets better I'll have to get to a muffler shop. | ||
| Cecil1 |
Well I finally had time to get to a muffler shop and have a turn down made for my S-1. I had to remove the baffle before going to the shop and that seemed to really wake it up. I think it even looks better now with the turn down. Best of all the rear wheel stays clean. Thanks again Grancuda for the idea. | ||
| Limitedx1 |
ya im diggin up this old thread!!!! hey grand, is it possible to take a close up of the actual tip to muffler connection. i was thinking of tig welding the tip on, but if they can epand it like u said and use some self tapers that will not require me to take it to a shop, and i can keep my jet coat on the end in there! i just bought all new rear brake parts and polished my pm wheels, i surely dont want my force turning it all black like it always does!!!! thanks much |
