| Author | Message | ||
     Boomer |
Pulled the primary cover last night. Ever see that TV show "You gotta see this", well, you gotta see this only I don't have a scanner. the shift detent plate is a mirror image of the stock one. Not a duplicate but a mirror. No wonder neutral was between 4th and 5th. I called Baker but all the techs were gone for the day. The lady I spoke to said it is probably the detent plate from the reverse pattern drum, although it is supposed to have an "R" stamped on it which it does not. Will contact them this morning for more info. Bigun283, there were no instructions in my kit either. There should be three parts total. A spring, detent plate and shift drum and yes the detent plate should be attached to the drum with an allen head screw. It will be shiny aluminum. | ||
| Boomer |
Update. Baker sent me another detent plate (read correct one). Installed it last night. I now have neutral, shifting is much better. I'm sure it will improve even more as the parts wear in. | ||
| Xgecko |
 help please | ||
| Lake_Bueller |
I know this has been discussed over-n-over but I'm too lazy to search the archives..... Any recommendations on trans fluid? | ||
| Blake |
I know it's a good question, but I'm too lazy to answer.  Based on recent experience, I heartily recommend a good synthetic 75W90 gear lube. | ||
| Lake_Bueller |
Blake, Thanks for answering  !!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Well, just finished updating the detent plate on my 2000 M2... (long pause)... Yeah. I figured that out also... the 2000 M2 CAME WITH the updated plate, at least according to my service manual. I was in Modesto on business, and got to visit a Buell dealer that actually cares about customers. It was an amazing experience, and I launched into a buying frenzy... couldn't help myself. Modesto is everything they say. The next leg of that same trip took me to Dallas, but I did not have enough time to stop in at sport twin, so alas I was not able to get a "twofer". I figured out I already had an updated plate AFTER I pulled the primary cover, but before I pulled the primary chain, clutch, etc, so it could have been worse, and it was good to get in there and see how everything is holding up. The updated tensioner looks great. So, the first person to mail me (see profile) asking for it can have the updated detent plate and spring clip (unless somebody informs me otherwise about when they switched to the new plates). Just send me a mailing address. Switched from the Sport-Trans to Mobil 1 gear oil as well, so we will see how that works as well. Bill | ||
| Reepicheep |
Geesh. Can't give 'em away. Doesn't anybody out there want a updated detent plate for all the pre-2000 buells? Bill | ||
| Reepicheep |
Ok... given away. Thanks everyone. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Wow! Just took the first ride after changing to the Mobil 1 full synthetic Gear Lube. Goodness! I bet it gave every bit as much improvement as the Banke shifter and rearsets did, for a lot less money. Ok Blake, and others, how can something so simple make such a huge difference in the way it feels? And if it makes such a huge difference in feel, can we be sure it is not hurting anything? I have no beef with H/D and Buell pushing the dino oil, its a good motorcycle oil if you stick with the recommended change intervals, and for lower volume specialty oils it is reasonably priced. But if the Mobil 1 gear oil is as safe (or safer then) the sport trans fluid, then Buell is REALLY doing themselves a dis-service pushing it. Slap a Buell sticker over the mobile 1 label, ship it to the Buell dealers, and sell that. It is penny wise and pound foolish to make some little profit on the sport trans fluid, but then end up screwing up the shifting on the whole line of motorcycles... Just wondering how it can be so different in feel, but the same (or better) in terms of wear... Bill "monopolizing the transmission forum today" | ||
| Hootowl |
Hey all, please help. Well, I have just finished converting my X1 into the Bond Mobile. Yes, with a twist of the throttle, I can spray oil on the people behind me. I'm pretty sure I blew the crankshaft seal. I've got tranny fluid covering the ass end of my scooter, and it just keeps on coming. I didn't overfill it. It began on the way to Austin for the ROT rally, and I hadn't touched my tranny fluid for at least two months. I was hoping it was just condensation that had built up and running it for hours at high speed had boiled it all out, and the steam carried some of the oil out of the vent with it, but it did it all the way back the next day as well. Damn, So much for an easy fix. Questions: Has anybody ever changed this seal? I hear there is a new seal with two ridges on it for better sealing. Also I can't find anywhere in my manual that tells me how to remove the balancer. I can't even find the balancer in there with the exception of a picture depicting the removal of the crank nut. The book also goes into removing the guts of the clutch and mandates the use of special HD tools while making death threats against me if I don't. Do I have to disassemble the clutch to get the seal out? Can't I take it off as a unit? I want to get an idea of how long I can expect to be putting around on the old lady's Blast while my scooter's laid up with it's guts on the floor of my garage. Alan...Can you get me the parts I need? I don't want to wait two weeks while the local dealer runs around with their thumbs up each other's asses. I think I'm in for the primary gasket and the crankshaft seal. Any way you can't find out if there is indeed a redesigned seal? Thanks all... Jeff | ||
| Blake |
Check Henrik's posts from a few months back in the "Transmission - Primary Drive" topic. Yes there is a new seal, yes you can perform the replacement yourself. You will need driver to install the new seal. | ||
| Sem1 |
Jeff, I just replaced my crankshaft seal a week ago. I spent most of my time trying to press the new seal in. I did not have the right tool, so I had to improvise a makeshift one out of my wife's foot lotion can, a vitamin can, two old seals and the crankshaft nut. With the right tool, or a piece of any pipe with the right diameter, it should be easy to press the seal in. Also, having some sort of a hook or a pick would make it easy to pull the old seal out. I spent too much time trying to do that too. You don't have to disassemble the clutch; the manual is a bit unclear about it, but you can pull it out as a unit. Cheers, Semi | ||
| Jmartz |
Hoo: I've done it several times. You can ping me off line to discuss it if you want. Jose | ||
| Hootowl |
Thanks guys. It didn't puke at all this morning coming to work. Either it was just condensation, or I have no tranny fluid left. Just like an A6. If it ain't leaking, it won't fly. BTW, engine oil level has not changed in 200 miles. | ||
| Pilk |
A6 aint as bad as the whale.(A3forthosethatdontknow) Pilk | ||
| Joed |
I'll be installing my D&D slip-on this week. At 3,500 miles I'm going to take this opportunity to change out my tranny lub to Royal Purple Gear Oil (Any general comments on Royal Purple?), what viscosity do I need to use? Changing out the fluid looks pretty easy. The manual says to remove drain plug and clutch inspection cover. Install the drain plug. Add approximately 1 quart of lub. (I guess I just pour it in the inspection cover opening). Am I missing anything? The amount of lubricant doesn't look like an exact science (lubricant should reach bottom of clutch diaphragm spring),is there any risk of too much lub? thanks for the help. Joe ('01 X1) | ||
| Blake |
Joe, Use the 75W90. It works great, at least that's my short term impression so far after about 2,000 miles. A funnel with a tube on the end is a big help when adding tranny lube but it's not necessary. You will find that you will only use around 3/4 to 7/8 of the bottle in order to get the level required. Overfilling can result in nasty burps of lube spewing out the tranny breather hose. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Blake... Did you switch from the Mobil 1 to the Royal Purple? Any difference. My Cyclone shifts SO much better with the Mobil 1 it makes me nervous. Something is very different in there. I also experienced one brief instance of what felt like clutch slippage (in a couple hundred miles hard riding since I changed the primary fluid). Not bad, and it only lasted for a split second... could have been the clutch cable hanging up or something. Bill | ||
| Reepicheep |
I need some help diagnosing a problem shifting into 2nd gear at high RPMS. I updated to the Banke shifter and Mobil 1 gear oil and have put in the updated primary chain tensioner, and the belt and chain are tensioned correctly. This made everything but the high RPM shift from first to second far better (dare I say great). I pulled the primary open. Everything in there looks good, I verified I have the updated detent plate and that the pair of bolts for the bracket that supports the inside end of the shifter shaft are tight. I also did the procedure the service manual talks about where you put the drill bit through the hole in the detente plate while in third gear, and the clearance looked pretty good (maybe just a shade tight, but I was able to get the drill bit wedged in there). I did not loosen anything up to do this, it looked pretty good. The little hook and the arms that actuate the whole thing looked free from wear, and did not seem bent to the naked eye. I did notice that when I manually actuated the shifter arm with the primary apart, the detent plate does not move completely into the "notch" for second gear. Rather, it rotates just over the peak, and when you turn the transmission shaft only then will it drop into second gear. Don't know if this is a feature or "the bug". It did not do it for any other gears. Anybody know if this is normal? I may have tweaked something trying to get home after my primary chain tensioner split, it had a heck of a time getting into gear a couple times while blocking traffic at stoplights, and may have been a little over-motivated on the shifter peg to get into gear. Suggestions? I can live with it until the next primary change, then pull it down again and replace suspect parts, they are pretty easy to get at and are probably cheap. Thanks in advance... | ||
| Blake |
Bill, Sorry for the late reply, I had always used the SportTrans until Nallin Racing put in the RP 75W90. I'll try Mobil-1 75W90 next change. | ||
| Buellistic |
Reepicheep: Check the pins for tightness on SHIFTER DRUM ASM(P/N33634-91) The 1997 SERVICE MANUAL(P/N99489-97Y) states Shifter Shaft Assembly Alignment is with a No. 32 drill. Have read where a 1/8 drill is used or by eye moveing the lever CLOCKWISE(favoring upshifts),COUNTERCLOCKWISE(favoring dowmshifts) from factory setting. One or more pin are loose on my drum and plan to update to BAKER SHIFT KIT(P/N271-5 $189.00). My trans does not want to stay in LOW at times. In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Reepicheep |
Anybody watched the detent plate on the second gear shift? Should it go all the way into the valley, or just hang up and drop the rest of the way in when the transmission shaft turns? Based on a conversation with Buellistic last evening (thanks for calling), I think I know what it happening. I think the shifter arm support bolts adjustment is just a shade off. I was able to get the drill bit in the detent plate in 3rd gear, but it was SUPER tight, and the bit was angled. I bet if I had loosened it and adjusted it just a shade, my second gear shift would drop fully into the valley with no more fussing. Maybe I will just get the baker smooth shift kit and go in one more time and be done with it... anybody have any experience with it? Bill | ||
| Al_Lighton |
baker kit-good. have the new battle2win? Aaron's review is in it. Al | ||
| Aaron |
Rode the S1 to work yesterday. Every time I ride the S1 (the bike with that Baker kit in it), the first thing I notice is how much easier it is to shift than my other bikes. "Oh yeah, this bike has that shift kit in it!" It really is nice. Except I miss being able to hit neutral from 2nd as I approach a light or something. Don't know where Reg got that $189 price he printed, I paid like $259 for it. Don't expect your shift forks to fully engage the gears. The dogs have a slight back cut and that pulls the gears together, the shift forks just initiate the action. What you're describing is normal. Adjust the pawl by the book. It's been my experience that shifting & engagement problems are caused by worn dogs. | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
I have been unable to find any discussion on this, so I thought I would mention it. Last fall I had my 01 M2 in for an oil leak and I had the dealer install a fix for the hard shifting. I believe I found about about it here, but can't find it now. Anyway, for those of you with 2001 models that have the REAL hard shift, like bruising your foot type, Buell has a fix for it and it's free. And it works. My bike now shifts like normal. (Well, normal for a Buell) I was going to spend the $$$ for a Banke, and now I have absolutle no need to. I'm much happier. Chris  | ||
| Hootowl |
I have sludge in my primary from water getting in there. Probably happens when I wash the bike. Got in through the vent hose? Anyway, I'm able to wipe most of it out, but I can't get back in the transmission without taking it out, which I really don't want to do. I'm sure the teeth of the gears are clean from the rubbing they get. It's just the walls of the case that have brown stuff on them all the moving parts are clean. But I can't get back there to wipe it off the case. Is there any kind of addative out there that will absorb water? You know, like they make for fuel systems (Heat etc.) I'm worried about the water contaminating any new oil I put in there. Maybe I should stop using synthetic for a while so the tranny will get hotter and boil it out? Maybe that's why HD will only recommend their SportTrans fluid? Questions Questions. | ||
| Blake |
Hoot, Your tranny will get plenty hot with synthetic lube. I've heard that the Sport Trans is actually a semi-synthetic based lubricant, though I don't know for sure, just a rumor. Change fluid and take your bike for a spirited ride with lots of stop and go's and hard acceleration. HP is what will heat up your tranny; getting those gears to flex and heat up is key.  | ||
| X1nut |
why not just set up a coleman stove under it? That way you won't have to go through all the trouble of riding it.  Just kidding dude...don't try this at home. | ||
| Hootowl |
I already have it back together and have put SportTrans in it. Stuff sure is thin compared to the Redline I've been using. Unfortunately, I messed up the gasket while installing it, and I have a leak about half way up the rear of the case. Doesn't leak when the bike's not running, but it absolutely pours out while on. Shit. Guess I'm buying another gasket tomorrow. Good news is that my charging system works again. Bad news is that I have to ride my wife's Blast to work again tomorrow. My butt is killing me.  |
