| Author | Message | |||
     Creepingmee |
EZ, The second hole is easy to figure out. Remove the timing cup, match it up to the ignition module. line up the existing hole with the pickup you are using on the hi-4. the 2nd pickup on the hi-4 that you have to remove to time the bike will now be right where you want to cut your 2nd hole in the timing cup. then remove the 2nd pickup from the module. (it hits the bump at the bottom of the casting and you cannot time the bike correctly with it there.) Its easy to do as its just screwed to the mod. remove the screw and the pickup, bend the transistor out of the way so it's flat. Install your modified timing cup, install the mod. with the v-notch in the middle of the timing marks on the casting. Fire the bike, set the timing and programs to your liking. It's easy after you figure it out. It just took me 3 days to figure it all out is all. I want to get a VOES though I would be able to use a couple more degrees of initial advance without pinging if I had one. But the bike does run very well and now when I get 10.5:1 piston and N9 cams I can set it up for it... Isn't that what it's all about? hehe -Marc | |||
| Ezblast |
Thank you - any pictures? GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | |||
| Ezblast |
Quote on another Forum : - was told by Scott from Revolution Performance that the Twin Tech Ignition will work on my bike, and that its rpm limit is adjustable, and it also has adjustable curves. we'll see. My note and question: Well - if you put an extra hole about just over 180 degrees in the timing cup you could run it in twin mode and then use a twin tach - which are much easier and cheaper to find - think you could find a stock number on that tach - that is useful info! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
You can use a twin timing cup 32402-83($6). If you just cut the hole 180 out you'll probably spark at valve overlap, so the easiest way would be a stock twin cup. There are 'kits' that are sold for people who convert their twins to single fire ignition so the tach will still work. | |||
| Ezblast |
Techlusion TFI Management System - interesting new ignition choice - notice that. Offered with the Revolution full kit - anyone with info on it? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | |||
| Totolandman |
Anyone have the manual/paperwork for the Screamin Eagle Ignition 32942-02? My shop misplaced the paperwork! If you could upload and send as a .PDF it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, totolandman | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
PM sent! | |||
| Ezblast |
I have it broken down to 5 pdf files - 2 are too large to post - email me and I'll send them to you. Or you can visit my group - locatable through my profiles home page link. EZ | |||
| Totolandman |
Does anyone know if the Accel Single/Dual fire ignition module will work? SINGLE/DUAL FIRE IGNITION 731524 Accel’s new Ignition Module will work for both Single- and Dual fire applications. It has an adjustable rev-limiter and 15 preset advance curves to satisfy everybody, and everything from a stock engine to highly modified big inch motors. This easy to install ignition uses the stock rotor cup. The entire unit hides under the cam cover for a clean look. Fits Big-Twins 1970 thru 1999, and Sportster models 1971 to present. | |||
| Totolandman |
Does anyone know if the DYNA 2000IP Programmable Ignition System will work with the Blast? DYNA 2000IP PROGRAMMABLE IGNITION SYSTEMS These Dyna ignitions are designed for use on all carburetor equipped models and replace the factory electronic ignition with its external module. Can also be used to convert point triggered ignition systems when used in combination with our trigger rotor (ZPN 237280). The Dyna 2000iP is completely self-contained. The entire unit hides under the cam cover for a clean look and will operate in all combinations of Single Fire or Dual Fire with Single Plug or Dual Plug heads when you use the appropriate coils. To allow easier cranking and kicking in Dual Fire mode, the Dyna 2000iP will operate as a Single Fire system when starting the engine. All functions are programmable with the dipswitches on the unit, or on a PC using Dyna's separately available programming kit, which also gives you access to the data recording facilities. More features are: • 10 Selectable advance curves to cover a broad range of engine builds and riding styles • Engine over-rev protection adjustable from 6.000 to 7.500 rpm. • Adjustable timing retard for nitrous and turbo applications • VOES indicator allows you to tell at a glance the status of the VOES switch • Built-in Tach driver can be used to activate shift light, auto-shifters and other accessories • Designed to work with any Dual Fire tachometer in both Single Fire and Dual Fire mode • Easy static timing with built in timing indicator • Intelligent over-current and short-circuit protection • Active dwell control • Over-voltage protected against momentary spikes PC Programmable options are: • 8 point fully definable wide open throttle curve • 8 point fully definable part throttle curve • Rev limiter programmable in 50 RPM steps • Programmable from 0 to 5 dead cranking revs for easier starting • Rear cylinder offset from -10 to +10 degrees • Security Lock Out • Single or Dual fire | |||
| Totolandman |
Does anyone know about the Twin Tec Model 1005 Internal Ignition and if it could work with the Blast? TWIN TEC MODEL 1005 INTERNAL IGNITION Daytona’s Twin Tec model 1005 Internal Ignition unit is intended for those who want a flush-mount ignition system. For this cleaner look, the model 1005 ignition replaces all the Harley-Davidson OEM ignition components, including the bulky wiring harness and external module. This ignition unit is triggered from the stock timing rotor at the end of the camshaft and mounts inside the engine nose cone. It is intended for electric start applications only. Four rotary switches are used to set the operating modes (such as single or dual fire, advance curve family and multi-spark), adjust the timing advance, and select the RPM limit. Two diagnostic LED’s indicate general status and the status of the vacuum switch (VOES). The status LED is also used for static timing, as it will flash when the engine reaches top dead center (TDC). 741966 Twin Tec 1005 ignition, fits 1970 thru 1984 Shovelhead Big-Twin, 1984 thru 1999 Evolution Big-Twin, and 1971 thru 1997 Sportster models 741967 Twin Tec 1005S ignition for use on 1998-2002 Sportster models, includes mating Deutsch plug and wiring harness for Single Fire Conversion | |||
| Totolandman |
Here is another ignition (Compu-fire) Elite Super Sport Ignition Module: COMPU-FIRE “ELITE” SUPER SPORT IGNITION MODULE Compu-Fire's “Elite” Super Sport ignition module is designed specifically for engines stock to wild and is must for high compression motors. Features are: • Selectable Dual Fire/Single Fire • Programmable advance • Dual mode VOES (Vacuum Operated Electronic Switch) operation • Seven selectable RPM limits from 6.500 RPM and up, with increments of 250 RPM or no limit • Built-in Accu-Ray static timing light • State-of-the-art compact design that fits behind your engine's ignition cover, no external modules 238316 Fits 1971 to present Sportster and Buell models | |||
| Gbaz |
I have a set of twin tech coils on my v-star and always wondered if their ignition mod would work on a blast. turns out they have instruction on how to make them work... take a look. http://www.daytona-twintec.com/download/Blast_Tech _Note.pdf | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Dude, you are the man with the links today. You rock! It even shows a pic of the twin tech ignition installed on a Blast. | |||
| Gbaz |
installing the VOES is the only thing i dont know about. Is there a vac tube on the intake manafold or carb on a blast? I dont remember seeing one... | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes! Though some carbs may have it permanently plugged. | |||
| Ezblast |
Cali carbs don't though;0) EZ | |||
| Gbaz |
So if you installed the twin tech you would no longer need the TPS in the carb, but would the auto choke function still work? I dont have my service book, so i dont know how its wired. | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'm sure you could wire the 'choke' to still work. If the SE ignition uses VOES or TPS, I wonder what makes the Twin Tech different? It does say you dont have to run a VOES, but is recommended for non race applications. Sorry I dont have the time today to sort through the wiring diagram. | |||
| Ezblast |
Twin Tech 1005 Ignition -
Buell® Blast If you require a programmable aftermarket ignition for the Buell® Blast, we have the solution. You can use our Model 1005 that mounts in the nose cone in place of the Blast module. You must replace the original equipment coil with our mini coil (P/N MINI-COIL) that has 3 ohm primary resistance. You will also require our timing rotor (P/N ROTOR-32402) and VOES switch (P/N VOES-KIT-MC7). Minor modifications are required to re-index the timing rotor and provide clearance in the Blast timing cover. Please refer to our Buell® Blast Tech Note for more details. (Message edited by Gearheaderiko on March 26, 2008) | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
You tha man, EZ! Whats really cool is the instructions tell you how to convert the twin timing cup for Blast usage. Takes all the guesswork out of it. Their website is also choc full of info too. | |||
| Muckerpuck |
being i had a bunch of ignition problems last year i had looked at the se ignition.. but what mod level would i need to benifit ... just curious... 45/175 jets, jardine, ez intake, ... i also have cams , and waiting on 48/180 jets, to go in somtime.. | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
You will notice a difference in response and running the minute you install it. Stock or not. However they are discontinued and difficult to find and I've already had 2 bad SE modules (I believe from a bad batch that someone got a hold of and were selling). You might need to try one of the other ignition modules recently posted. I'll be needing a new one too! | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
FWIW: I just installed a used stock module I'd gotten. It worked, but the rev limiter (I believe) is faulty. It would run to 35+mph in 1st gear before it would cut out. Then it would cut out at 25 mph! I'll be installing a known good unit soon and if I find its something else, I'll repost (but I doubt it. The symptoms are too obvious)! Put in a known good unit and all problems dissapeared! (Message edited by gearheaderiko on April 24, 2008) | |||
| Muckerpuck |
i was lookin at the twin tech, it seems like a decent setup for a pretty penny though... so maybe ignition and cams see what she does.... | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
ARRRRGGHH  Apparently the Screaming Eagle ignition in the raceBlast is going bad. Although it hasnt been started in maybe 3 months, it turned over fine. It however exhibited the same telltale signs: spark every 3rd engine rotation. Put a battery charger on it for 2 hours and it fired right up! Maybe coincidence, maybe not. Racing in a week and no time to buy/install another one. At least I have a stock module as a spare  Doing the math thats $900 in Screaming Eagle ignition modules I've gone through. Good thing they've been discontinued!!! | |||
| Muckerpuck |
holy ignition failure batman.... omg | |||
| Reuel |
I'd be willing to bet it's the hall effect sensor pins breaking. I've been mulling over how to make them indestructible. All that vibration. The stock just fills everything with really hard rubber. I'm thinking a good hard epoxy, but sometimes too hard is bad, too. | |||
| Ezblast |
Not if it can hold it in place no matter what - to keep it from breaking. EZ | |||
| Reuel |
Seems if I don't get things done by Sunday night, I won't get back to them until Friday evening. That's today! Woohoo! Hopefully I'll be able to mount the gear tooth sensor tomorrow to see if it works. If it works, I have to design a good base for it and something to hold the epoxy on the wires. I like using an interruptor, but the only one I can seem to find just isn't shaped correctly for the space that's available. I have to leave one side hanging into the cup area otherwise it doesn't quite detect the cup. Here's some graphics. This is a side view of the timing cup and my interruptor. Note that the timing cup does not go very deep into the gap. (Red is the mounting plate) The system will not work when I mount it like this. If I leave the opening wider and let the inside of the HEI hang down into the hole, moving the cup ever so slightly further into the gap, it works perfectly. The lower image is the gear tooth hall effect sensor. It is designed for gear teeth, but my hope is it will work in this case.   Sorry I made the images too small, but you get the idea. (Message edited by Reuel on April 25, 2008) |
