| Author | Message | ||
     Torquemonster |
Just got a big ol' box of goodies from the nice folks at American Sport Bike. Pretty soon here Ill be installing a full race kit with a catch can and a set of racetech fork springs. Ill be wingin' it with my shop manual and my father in law by my side. Anyone that done this before is welcome to chime in with any tips or pointers. Thanks. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I'd spend an hour or two polishing the race header before installing it. I was surprised how much less heat the pipe emitted after polishing and how easy it was later on to get the 'blueing' off with a little Mother's and elbow grease. Make sure you can live with the CF hamcan filter. My knee cracked the cover on only my second ride. I never liked it in the first place but thought I could live with the interference my knee had with it. I probably could have lived with it, but the CF cover itself couldn't live with my knee. That was an expensive mistake. | ||
| Torquemonster |
Which polishing compound do you suggest, DJ? I know you said Mothers, but do they have a specific make that I should pick up? Also...is there a "best" place to install the catch can? I know next to a tire is a no-no. (Message edited by TORQUEMONSTER on February 27, 2008) | ||
| Djkaplan |
I remember a product out there specially made for polishing just pipes... Gentleman_jon posted a thread on it a while back. It's strips of cloth impregnated with a polishing compound that you wrap around the pipes as you go. Can't remember the name of the stuff, but it's got to be easier than Mother's and shop rags. Mother's works, but you gotta have time and motivation... I'm usually missing one of those two. You're in luck with a location of a catch-can on an M2... there is a perfect place for one under the bodywork... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/255661.html?1199063755 I have XB rocker covers now, so the routing for the breather lines isn't as convoluted as shown on the above thread. Either way you go, there are plenty of good locations for a catch-can. What ever you do, make sure to add it to the Breather thread in the Knowledge Vault. | ||
| Torquemonster |
Thanks DJ. Id seen your post before, but had a slight brainfart in finding it again. Thanks for the link. Ill definately post up. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Here's that metal polish Jon was talking about. http://www.lusterlace.com/moto.html His bike is always nicely detailed so you know this is the good stuff. | ||
| Torquemonster |
Cool. Ill look for it on my lunchbreak today. My pops is going out of town, so the install will have to wait a couple days- which is plenty of time for polishin'. Id really rather jet hot 'em black, but the $ just isnt in the cards right now. I dont really "do" shiny, but this'll give my idle hands an opp. to stay out of trouble. Next decision...run the race header with the D&D I just bought, or use the race muffler...it may be personal preference, but havent read/found solid evidence of one outperforming the other yet. (Message edited by TORQUEMONSTER on February 27, 2008) | ||
| Djkaplan |
I never used the SS race muffler on my race header (I never even installed it), but I've heard plenty of them; very deep basso profundo and loud. The D&D's I've heard have all been even louder and more 'crackling'. The modified V&H I use doesn't sound nearly as deep as either of those two mufflers. It's a bit higher pitched (probably from the aluminum construction as well as having less baffling volume), but not much quieter. Sounds like you got a fun project ahead of you. I have a feeling these fairly rare race kits will be the Holy Grail for tuber enthusiasts in the near future... if not now. | ||
| Torquemonster |
Fun is an understatement. I smile just knowing that this already badass machine is about to get a mild muscle makeover. ...and I didnt think the grin could get any bigger. She's gonna be a handful at Badness. Not to boast or brag, but I picked up the entire race kit AND all the necessary accessories PLUS a new set of levers at a price nowhere even near the retail price of the race kit alone. It also arrived on my doorstep about two days after I ordered it. WOW. American Sport Bike has my business for life and I'll proudly recommend them to anyone. I liked my SS2R. It was loud (enough) and was light as all get out. I'll bet this D&D weighs 3x's as much. However, it feels as if it gives the bike a little more "oomph" than the V&H. Completely a noob's perspective and probably not worth much, as this is my first REAL bike, and the first modification I actually made to it. Ill run it with both and post up my opinion. Im thinking along the lines of flow and power - not so much tone or volume(db). I'll happily sacrifice the "coolnes" of a rowdy muff over performance anyday. (Message edited by TORQUEMONSTER on February 27, 2008) | ||
| Djkaplan |
"She's gonna be a handful at Badness." I hope to make it to MBV myself. I've noticed that as the years go by, less tubers are showing up for the get together, so your presence is going to be noticed, believe me. I was also able to get a race kit at a substantially reduced price. I remember the Pro Series race kit for an M2 cost $1150 in 2000! I really wanted one but I thought the price was pretty steep at the time. Al didn't carry them when I got mine and he seemed pretty curious about where I found it... I got it at Sporttwin.com, the only time I've done business with them. They only had two left when I tracked it down almost three years ago. "Completely a noob's perspective and probably not worth much, as this is my first REAL bike, and the first modification I actually made to it." Well... I've been riding for almost 32 years and my bikes still feel like they go faster after I wash them or change the oil. If you say your bike runs better with a D&D than a V&H, who am I to say otherwise? See you in Suches. I'll be the guy with an M2 with a race kit. Heh, heh... so will you! | ||
| Torquemonster |
Ha ha ha. Im a firm believer in wash-n-go HP as well. Hope you can make it out- I'd like to gawk at your bike up close. Is she still naked? BAMF fo' sho! We'll have to perform a pretty little ditty called "dueling race kits" Question...I bought a 45 slow speed and a full tapered 88xl for the re-jet (stock carb). Ill drill out the vacuum to .125 as well. Pulled this info off Bikernet. Any conflicting opinions? (Message edited by TORQUEMONSTER on February 28, 2008) | ||
| Djkaplan |
I don't think there is a wrong choice when it comes to needles... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/11039.html?1111366126 I have a 45 pilot jet and the stock needle shimmed .022", 2 3/4 on the idle mixture screw. This seems to work well in the mountains, but no real dyno time, just the butt-dyno and plug readings. I haven't drilled out the hole in the slide, though. I was always afraid the throttle response would be too sensitive for low speeds, but I have nothing to base that on. If you drill yours, it would be interesting to hear the results. I may just try it. | ||
| Djkaplan |
"Hope you can make it out- I'd like to gawk at your bike up close. Is she still naked?" Yeah, it's still Naked Tail... and I love it! I never realized how much the bodywork interfered with my boots until I took the stock tailpiece off. I don't think I'll ever put it back on... that's the part I got Erik to autograph at MBII, too. Sure looks nice in my garage, though. (Message edited by djkaplan on February 28, 2008) | ||
| Guell |
Im still working on my naked tail, the wires on the right side bug me... still working on it. Should be naked for the badness though. cant wait to see more tubers. | ||
| Torquemonster |
You can do like DJ did and flip the ignition module upside down and re-tape. It looks really nice. | ||
| Torquemonster |
Im installing the cf race air cleaner with a catch can, so what do I do with the main breather hole (where the main breather hose used to go into the backplate) on the backplate? Do I still need to run a hose to it? Plug it up? It also seems that gaskets were not included for mounting the bracket to the support plate. Anyone got a part number for the gaskets? The breather bolts seem to be hitting the frame before theyre screwed in far enough. What am I doing wrong? Finally, the race kit doesnt seem to have a support included for where the muffler meets the collector. (looks like the Y mount kit I just bought is useless now) Ive seen DIY saftey wire looms, but whats the official scoop? (Message edited by TORQUEMONSTER on March 02, 2008) | ||
| Torquemonster |
 Thanks fellas. DJ- Did your race kit include a new "black painted steel carb support bracket"? If so, did it have any kind of gasket attached to the mounting tabs for the breather holes in the head? see Fig. B When I took mine off there was a thick black film that appeared to be remains of disintegrated gaskets. see Fig. A  The parts book shows the bracket, but no gaskets for where the mounting tabs get bolted into the head. I went ahead and ordered a new bracket today in hopes that it has the gaskets, but just dont want to wait a week to find out. I know chase said gasket maker kit and I may very well do that, but curiosity forces me to ask "why". | ||
| Torquemonster |
Hey DJ...look what I found, bro... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/342470.html?1205231512 | ||
| Torquemonster |
Securing the shoe for the race header is a pain... As the clamp is tightened around it, it scoots right off of the shoe. Im thinking of laying a bead parallel to the rear end of the shoe to keep the collar from slipping off. Is there a better suggestion? Does the clamp only go on one way? How are you guys "reinforcing" the shoe, as Ive heard its prone to failure... Thanks | ||
| Torquemonster |
bump for help | ||
| Djkaplan |
I had the same problem, but I got it to work. Tighten one clamp the best you can - it'll slip off the shoe and the sloping sides of the collector, but if you can get it to hang on at least halfway and get it tight, you can then put the other clamp on (you should have two with the race kit, use a regular hose clamp for the 'interim clamp' if you don't, but make sure you use the stainless steel one for the second one). The halfway-on clamp should hold the second clamp tight enough so you can get it to a point where it can hang on itself. It took a few tries, but I got this to work (twice now!). Stainless steel against stainless steel will stick to each other like crazy when pressure is applied between them - the clamp won't slip off when it's tight. It might be a good idea to bevel the sides of the shoe that the clamp goes around. It helps it stay on and it won't put a stress riser in the clamp band. I didn't have to resort to a bead of weld, but that doesn't sound like a bad idea. Try the two clamp method first though... maybe try a few times. I wonder how everyone else got their's on... (Message edited by djkaplan on March 25, 2008) | ||
| Torquemonster |
Thanks for the tip DJ. I tried it last night but was unsuccessful. Im taking the shoe to a buddy today to have a bead laid on the end of it. Should fix 'er right up. Ill post pics after I achieve success. |
