| Author | Message | ||
     Lee |
Vr, So you can go with the 12's with an otherwise stock setup? I'm looking to do minimal mods. The people at NOS said the 2 cylinder kit runs about $700. Does this sound right? The guy I was talking to sounded pretty clueless. Thanks, Lee | ||
| Vr1203 |
Lee, Thats higher than I paid but that was 1995(?) I believe stock will work with the 12's.The brochure that NOS puts out has all the FAQ's too.By the way I sold the NOS kit I had to a Bueller, never heard that he got it installed, I think I saw it advertized for sale a while ago. | ||
| Swon |
My take on the rod and flywheel thread. The stock rods and crankpin are the weak links not the flywheels themselves. The material that the flywheels are made of doesn't matter at all. No flywheel is better or worse than the next, as long as it is balanced with the rod assembly properly. The main weak link is the rod itself at higher rpm's. The rod material is insufficent and not beefy enough at the higher rpm levels, which causes the piston to rock in the bore. Carrillo or S&S rods are made of better 4340 steel and will cure this problem. You'd probably be better off using the lighter X1 flywheels. The factory race teams use exotic stuff (read: lightweight, Ti, I think, I'm not sure) that you can't get. Well, if you had enough money you could. Not practical in the real world. Just like Ti pushrods and roller rockers. Are they they worth the money? Would you or I see a difference? Probably not! Thanks! As I said just my take and opinion on it. Swon | ||
| Mrmongo |
Hello again,I didn`t get any answers last time I tried!Has any of you tried Zippers"88" or"99" kits on a buell?I will soon post my diagram from my S3 with redshift 567,Axtell domed pistons etc.Stay tuned.Mr Mongo | ||
| Roc |
Peter - on you plenum, pictured in the Bonni section, don't you need a vent hole for your carburator? Also, do you have a copy of the Aerocharger installation instructions? If not please let me know and I will fax/mail you a copy. They say you can use the OE ignition for 1996 and later Buells - I needed the Dyna because the bike is a '95. The S&S ignition sounds great, but not cheap. Sorry to hear abut your problems with Aerocharger, they have been helpful to me so far. | ||
| Vr1203 |
Roc. Are you using the orginal hokey bracket? Its really hard to it get sealed. I had trouble with mine. I tried to sand it flat,but it would distort upon installation. I fixed it by using the newer setup and an aftermarket, more stout bracket. It relies on a "O" ring. But you have to use a flat slide Mikuni.  | ||
| Aaron |
Swon, when you really push the hp levels, forged steel flywheels *do* matter over factory cast iron ones. I could show you a set of cast iron ones that couldn't hold the horsepower I put to them. Replaced'em with forged steel and never had another issue. I agree in pronciple with what you're saying, though, they are not the weak link in the factory setup, and at sane power levels the factory ones are probably fine. I was at 2.5hp per ci when I had that little issue. | ||
| V2win |
Vr1203, Who made the aftermarket "o-ringed bracket? | ||
| Peter |
Roc, I probably do. I was going to sit down and study the carb for a while to see what effects higher pressures would have on it, before I drilled it, in case I found that I shouldn't have.... PPiA | ||
| Roc |
VR1203 – I have an Aerocharger bracket, they supply it but I’m sure you can get it elsewhere. Huge improvement over the factory piece but it does not seal very well. I came across a competing turbo site that said sealing was always a problem with adding a turbo to a carbureted bike; I’m thinking silicone glue type stuff. Peter - I think that you need that hole so that the pressure is equalized in the float bowl area, ant that without it you will be forever lean – bad! I think you should drill it before running the bike, ask Aaron. Flywheels? Aerocharger techs have told me not to worry about the HP I might make because of the way their system makes it, linear/smooth. It seems to me that a torque figure would be a more appropriate measure of parts durability anyway, but I claim a novice standing. I’ve decided to keep the stock rods/bottom end, so we will see. | ||
| Peter |
Roc, Once I've looked at it, if I think it needs drilling, I will definitely drill it before I start it. No need to worry for me  Thanks for the offer of an installation manual, but Peter Parsons has already faxed me a copy of his. PPiA | ||
| Jmartz |
I run the S2 style carb bracket. It is plated and has two circular holes. | ||
| Vr1203 |
V2win, I think it was a Aerocharger bracket and adapter for a flat slide.The adapter would fit on the spigot of the Mikuni with a rubber o-ring, allowing me to mount the plenum in any orientation.That allowed me to turn the inlet of the plenum directly towards my underneath turbo.Next step for me,... water injection. | ||
| Roc |
I live in Oregon so I have the benefit of water injection almost year round.  | ||
| Vr1203 |
Well the H2O injection has arrived. I'm hoping that it will allow a more aggressive ignition curve,which could give me a better throttle response.Plus it will hopefully replace a intercooler(don't like the restriction and packaging problems anyways)and I can use methanol and H2O,meth should give me a slight power boost.  | ||
| Peter |
Jim, What sort of money does that kit go for? PPiA | ||
| Vr1203 |
Peter,way too much -$500http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/sys1/sys1a.html#top | ||
| Vr1203 |
Hey Pete, H2O is installed!  | ||
| Vr1203 |
Just took it out, with a few carb adjustments and the water injection,I picked up a whole bunch of WOW!  I need to pick up the methanol today, a 50/50 mix should be interesting | ||
| Peter |
Have you tried advancing your timing at all with it on? PPiA | ||
| Vr1203 |
Hi, Pete. Just got back from another "dyno-by-butt" run.I moved the ignition to the next higher advance curve. Now I'm having trouble telling the diff. 5000 to 6000 RPM goes by very very fast. I now have to concentrate on shifting and not slamming into the rev. limiter. | ||
| Peter |
I guess it's worth the money then? PPiA | ||
| Vr1203 |
If a person had a modern turbocharged car it would be great. The car's electronics would adjust itself with the addition of H2O. The car would'nt slow down when it was hot . In my case, I won't have to get out of the throttle when it knocks, for instance @ 90`+ ambient.Was it worth the money? This whole project is'nt exactly rational so why start now.  | ||
| Tripper |
Busa | ||
| Vr1203 |
Pete, I've a appointment with a dyno' next week. Anyone care to guess what kind of power I'll see with the turbo bike? I plan to be there to make adjustments.Will keep everyone posted. | ||
| Peter |
Don't know, but I'm very interested! Tripper, anyone can buy a Ferrari etc, but this is more like playing with old style Hot Rods. It's still fun. Hot Rodding a Busa is pretty much outside most people's capabilities. PPiA | ||
| Tripper |
Pete, no argument here. DaveT | ||
| Roc |
Vr1203 - I'll guess. What are you running for boost, cams, heads, pistons - CR, etc.? Lots of variables. I say from 132 to 179 RWHP. What have you done with your bottom end? My Pops bought a Busa a few weeks ago so I will have a chance to do some "testing" once my S2 finished, is a bike ever finished? If Aerocharger is correct in their claims I should be making about 150 to 156 RWHP at 15 pounds of boost right now, but that is a performance claim by the company. They say 10-15% more for an intercooler, we shall see. Now they are both very fast. When you are on it with either you are asking for trouble. All of that being said I think the Busa has at least one thing the S2 will never have, neutral. | ||
| Peter |
Roc, I'm betting you don't have a Banke shifter then. I don't miss gears anymore and neutral is a breeze... PPiA | ||
| Vr1203 |
Roc, I should try to adjust the boost to get 15lbs?,I have not seen that much.Maybe if I raise the rpm ? Everyone remember, I used the the obsolete/early style Aerocharger setup. Also, I just bought a late model style shifter and have no problems. |
