| Author | Message | ||
     Buellbob |
One other thing, has anybody had any bad experiences by using the longer 5 in. type oil filter? I've heard some really wierd opinions about doing this.  Thanks Bob. | ||
| Pilk |
I sure wouldnt. The gear oil is much more suited to gear contact than motor oil, which also has friction modifiers that might do sorta bad things to a wet clutch. Mobil 1 makes a fine 75/90 gear oil that works wonderfully in our primaries.  Pilk | ||
| Roadrunr |
Buellbob & Pilk: Bob,I use the 5" filter because it holds about 1/2 cup more oil. No probs whatsoever....Pilk, Is that the mobile one gear oil for marine aplications? Thats all I saw at my local wally world. Thanks, Steve | ||
| Dasrage |
Fellow Buell Bro's!!!!!!!! I just got a Black 2000 M2, and it rox!!!..Its my 1st bike and Im totally blown away!..Ive hit the 5000mile oil change, and Im set to do it myself, allthough im not the best mechanic, It appears quite easy...Any comments or things I should be aware of??..also, after about 50-60 miles my hands fall asleep. Any way to install a cruz control?...thanx yall and have a wikked ride!!  | ||
| Mikej |
Dasrage, Depending on where you're located, check at local bike shops for a Throttle Rocker ($5-$10) or a ThrottleMeister ($100+), or any number of other throttle locks for sportbikes. For changing the oil filter, have a bag handy as it will leak as you unscrew it. Before putting on the new filter be sure to add a little oil to it per the recommendations in the service manual. When refilling the oil tank, just bring the level up to the lower mark, run the engine for a short moment to pump any residual oil from the crankcase back into the tank, then only bring the oil up to about the half-way mark on the dipstick. Check your primary chain adjustment while you're checking things. Again, the service manual is good for guiding you through this as well. | ||
| Ara |
Dasrage, I have a couple of suggestions for you... - Before you remove your oil filter, make a "bib" out of a plastic grocery bag to keep the oil draining from the lines from drooling all over your voltage regulator. - Changing the gear oil in the primary is part of your oil change. Before you pull the plug, cut down a 1/2 gallon milk carton so that it'll slip between the engine case and the exhaust can. It'll divert the gear oil to your catch can and keep you from having to clean up your exhaust system. - Adjusting the tension of your primary chain and the clutch is also part of your oil change. The instructions in the service manual are sufficient. - A pair of bar-end weights will help damp out the vibration you experience at the handlebars. Foam or gel grips will help too. Neither are expensive. - A "cruise control" or throttle lock is not a good solution to your vibration problem. There's a real "rant" that could go with this, but suffice it to say that riding for appreciable periods of time with a lock on your throttle represents a huge safety risk. They're good for letting you stretch your fingers BRIEFLY on a long ride, but not for riding on and on. Enjoy your M2. You've got a wonderful machine. Russ | ||
| Reepicheep |
Dasrage, Very nice, I have a black 2000 M2 as well, but with a few more miles. Good tips on oil changes above, I usually end up with everything drooling everywhere, then just hose it down when I am done. If the primary chain tensioner is still stock, I would recommend you pull the primary cover and replace it with the updated part (as you will be changing the fluid anyway). It is a pretty easy job (you will need a torque wrench and a couple gaskets), and there are lots of tips in the knowledge vault. The stock tensioners were awfully thin, and many M2's have split them, and you may not notice this until bits of the tensioner are working their way through your tranny. Also don't be too paranoid about oil level. If I fill mine up anywhere above the LOWER line on my dipstick, it promptly sprays it all over my right knee on the next ride until it is just below the lower line. It will then stay right there until the next change. I also like the synthetic oil (Mobil 1 VTwin is pricey but great) during the summer. The rear head temperature is dangerously close to the baking temperature of non synthetic, especially during hot summer months. (IMHO) Bill | ||
| Pilk |
Steve, the Mobil 1 gear oil is not the marine application oil, it is regular differential gear oil. Auto Zone carries it in stock at all the locations that I have ever seen. WalMart has never carried the Mobil gear lube that I'm aware of, however they usually have the V-twin oil on the shelf. Pilk | ||
| Buellbob |
Reepicheep Since you mentioned the primary chain tensioner, any opinions on the Hayden M6 tensioner? I'm just trying to decide if its worth the investment. BOB  | ||
| Aaron |
Did someone say Hayden M6? Again? | ||
| Sarodude |
Hey, don't they make that nifty Krank Vent doohickey?  -Saro | ||
| Aaron |
Noticing a trend, are we? | ||
| Buellbob |
So please don't leave me hanging, please fill me in. BoB | ||
| Aaron |
Hey Jose, recognize this?  Pulled the clutch out of the M2 today to beef up the spring, look what I found. What a mess. I'm switching lubes. Have been running Heavy Shockproof. | ||
| Buellbob |
Aaron Your comment made me do a search of the Archives, did'nt like what I saw. I was on the verge of buying one. Thanks. BOB | ||
| Aaron |
Bob, why didn't you just follow the links I provided? | ||
| Peter |
Aaron, Is the clutch slipping with from the extra power? PPiA | ||
| Aaron |
Not that I know of ... I just thought a heavier spring would be prudent. | ||
| Henrik |
Green sludge: found lots of that stuff in the S2 primary when I went in for the Baker shift drum upgrade. Now I'm trying Royal Purple (just because I had a bottle on the shelf) Henrik | ||
| Buellbob |
Aaron I didn't realize I could just click on the highlighted word to get what I needed. Always nice to learn something new. BOB  | ||
| Hootowl |
Good reading... | ||
| Mikej |
From the link above, aren't these statements from that page somewhat contradictory? ==== begin quote ==== Synthetics should be used during break in. False: They are too slippery to allow parts to rub together and "break in" with each other. Less slippery fossil oils allow parts to break through the oil film for metal to metal contact to wear in together. Fossil oils should be used until the engine is broken in. After break-in you may switch to synthetic which will slow down further wear since the last thing we want now is metal to metal contact.. ... Bearings will sometimes slide and skid in synthetic oil instead of rolling. False: More scare mongering to coerce you into using another often substandard oil to the superior synthetic. ==== end quote ==== I don't know, but if my engine parts are "breaking through the oil for a metal to metal contact" during breakin, I don't think my engine will be around too long after 500-1500 metal to metal breakin miles. Oh well. | ||
| Hootowl |
I think they are talking about rings when they say that, not bearings. | ||
| Aaron |
That's just Donny's opinion ... The main dude behind Mobil 1 & Mobil 1 V-twin says it's bunk. As does Amsoil. As does Chevrolet, Porsche, and others. | ||
| Hootowl |
What, about using synth for break in? | ||
| Aaron |
Yes. | ||
| Hootowl |
Yeah, I think I'd have to agree. Almost. With a new car, yes , I absolutely agree. With an older motor that you are rebuilding, the rings don't seat well with synthetic. I put 10K miles on my truck (after a rebuild) running synthetic from day one. I overheated it, and popped a head gasket. Tore the heads off, and there were still swirl marks on the cylinder walls from the honing machine. New cars are built with a smoother cylinder wall and harder rings because of the superior quality of oil that became available in the late '70's. That's one of the reasons you can get 250K miles out of a new engine. In '75, if you drove around with 250K miles on your car, you used more oil than gas. Does anybody know how our cylinder liners are finished from the factory? OK, I'm braced for impact... | ||
| Aaron |
That doesn't make sense. You're saying is that the same finishes and materials available for new engines are not available for rebuilds? What if I could show you a direct quote from the senior engineer at Mobil that says "synthetics are not more slippery than mineral oils"? Would that change your view? Or would you still insist that they are? | ||
| Hootowl |
If there was NO metal to metal contact in an engine, then the rings would never seat. The finish on the cylinder is important. A rough finish would require a longer break in than a smooth one, and if the oil was too good at preventing wear, then it may never break in. My X1 didn't stop using oil until after the 10K mile mark. That tells me that it took 10K miles to seat the rings, and I was using natural oil. Natural oil is VERY good these days. Synthetic is better though. It is more heat resistant (I'm reminded of the old Mobil 1 commercial where the guy in the hot suit is holding a pan full of burned conventional oil, and a pan full of bright clean synthetic.) Is synthetic more slippery? Probably not. Is it more shear stable? Yes. Is it more heat stable? Yes. Does it flow better at low temps? Yes. Have you ever read the side of a bottle of Red Line? Are they lying? I'll be pissed if they are.(At $7.50 a quart mail order! ) | ||
| Hootowl |
You can get any finish you want I suppose. Take a look at the finish on a NAPA or Kragen or AutoZone engine though, and you'll see a good bit of swirl. |
