| Author | Message | ||
     Mr2shim |
Is it possible to change the spark plugs without rotating the engine down? It doesn't seem possible. | ||
| Badlionsfan |
i think if you remove the air box stuff you can get to them. | ||
| Starter |
Piece of cake..........once you've done it a couple of times. I usually remove the seat, airbox and base, RHS scoop. Front plug is really easy as you would know. Then using a plug socket on the wobble with an extension you should be able to get it through the frame. I usually find the plug lead on the rear plug causes most of the problems. Don't forget the anti-seize on the plug threads. | ||
| Mr2shim |
Cool, now I just need to find a place that sells spark plugs that'll fit.. Closest Buell dealer is almost 2 hours from the house. | ||
| Tq_freak |
One thing that helped me with the rear plug was I took a piece of 3/8 fuel hose about a foot - 18 inches long and stuck the plug in the end of it. It helped to stick the plug in there and get it started. (I'm Ham fisted) Be very careful of cross threading!! A few on here have done it before. | ||
| Etennuly |
Use anti-seize on your threads too. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Since changing plugs is a bit of a pain, it is a good idea to fit the best and longest lasting plugs available. The Denso Iridium IUX24 is a good choice. I believe they are available from at least one of our sponsors, Appleton HD. NGK also makes excellent iridium plugs that will fit the Buell. Iridium plugs resist fouling because of their tiny electrodes, and last a long time because of the strength of the iridium. | ||
| No_rice |
once you figure it out it can be done in about 15 minutes. like they said take the left side air scoop off. use an open ended wrench to change the plug. take the outer(colored) airbox lid off. us a spark plug boot pliers to get the back plug wire off, use a socket, swivel, and extension to get the back plug out. then i stick the new plug in the socket, fish it back in and thread it all the way in by hand with the extension. tighten it down with the ratchet, get the spark plug boot lined back up with your fingers and then put the spark plug boot pliers down in there to push it back on. sometimes you may have to wiggle some wiring out of the way as good as you can since it runs through the hole you are trying to use to get at the back plug. there ya go. | ||
| Nautique4life |
I just changed mine. Unfortunately, I had to do it while in Daytona for Bike Week at our hotel. (Always bring tools!!) The 2 local dealerships only carried the stock plugs. Now that I'm home, I will order the race plugs and swap them out. It's tricky, but once you learn the nuances, you got it. | ||
| Tx05xb12s |
I too emphasize how careful you need to be when threading the new rear plug in. It would be an expensive mistake if you cross-thread it. I'd slather that sucker with dielectric grease and anti-seize to avoid problems getting it back out next time too. I too recommend the NGK Iridium HEAT RANGE 9 plugs. Al @ American Sport Bike can hook you up with those. Don't buy them from HD because they'll try to sell you heat range 7 plugs which will foul and fail quickly. Plus, the NGK's should be good for at least 30,000 miles according to Al. I'd recommend you go ahead and install a new set of plug wires for good measure and you'll be done with it for years. Another tip in addition to the installation instructions above. You can also remove your coil to get a little more room in there if you're having trouble with the plug wire boots sticking to the old plugs. It's just two little bolts. I'd recommend you go ahead and get yourself a set of plug wire pliers too if you don't already have them. It's a real Biotch getting the wires off without them. |
