| Author | Message | ||
     Xbimmer |
Man, what a pain in the butt... Decided to replace my stock muffler for awhile so I could refurb the Drummer. Last time I swapped them out I noticed the cable at the muffler end was fraying just at the ferrule. I ordered a new one, and started the job this a.m. Everything was going smoothly at first, cleaned up the muffler, ran some BreakFree into the valve pivot, worked smooth as silk. Put on a new front strap, ready to go. Got the muffler back on and started to swap out the cables. It was then that I found out you can't route the new cable the same way as the original. It's tight enough in there between the engine and rear of the frame, but the factory saw fit to bundle up the cable with hoses and wiring enroute. At the point where the bundled group makes a vertical turn toward the top of the frame, it's all tucked behind a metal piece that's fastened to the frame with no access with the engine in place! Since there was no way to remove the original cable intact from behind that bracket, or routing the new one through it either, I cut the old cable to get it out of there. That kinda ticked me off since the bulk of the cable was in excellent shape, I'd planned on hitting the bicycle shop and try to get some materials to rebuild it... After planning a different path, routing the new one was only difficult when trying to make that vertical turn back up through the frame and to the airbox. I bypassed the metal retaining thing making sure the cable stayed away from the rear cylinder. Compounding the problem is the CA emissions plumbing jammed in there also, and it's all pretty close to the rear cylinder so clearance needs to be considered. Once fastened up I made sure there was no engine contact and the bends were all smooth, and ziptied everything snug. 4 hours later... Some day I'll have to rotate the engine and I'm redoing as much as I can in there. I realize the factory has to build them that way to save time, doesn't help the owner who does their own work though. I can only imagine how the average dealer would have mangled this one up. | ||
| Wademan |
I thought while removing my cable when installing the drummer 'boy I sure hope I dont want to put this cable back on..' I feel your pain. But I like the drummer so I dont have to go through what you are. | ||
| Maximum |
I went through that also. I just followed that silver split loom tubing down and across, using one cable tie on the left side and one on the right side, then down to the muffler. It was harder to figure out the route than it was to actually do it. Don't worry about that one bundle in the back of the frame that you can't get to! | ||
| Xbimmer |
But I like the drummer so I dont have to go through what you are. I like the Drummer too, makes the bike smoother and lots safer on the freeways IMHO. The decel-popping is a bit much though, and like I said I need to refurb the guts. Since I ride daily I wanted to reinstall the stocker, and frankly I kinda like "stealth" mode also. Don't worry about that one bundle in the back of the frame that you can't get to! Naw, no worries, was just ticking me off at the time, and I did want to save the cable. Fetched the pieces from the trash afterward, think I still can! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Salvage the cable for what? | ||
| Xbimmer |
$$ FtB... $25 is $25 in my book. I like spares! Guess you could call me "Chp_bstrd"...  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I understand, but how many cable failures have been reported on exhaust servos? I guess I look at the cost and effort of storage, remembering where the hell it is, etc. Look at it this way. You will probably sell the bike before you will have to worry about the new one wearing out, AND you don't have to store the spare.  | ||
| Teeps |
37000 miles the interactive cable was fraying at the ferrule. Oddly enough, I read the service manual on how to replace the cable. In a round about way, it says to attach a length of 7/32 vacuum tubing to the top of the cable and pull it out the bottom. Then attach the tubing to the new cable and reverse the process. I didn't like the force required to remove the original cable... So, I cut a slot in the plastic adjuster nut on the cable so it could be removed. After spraying the guide tube with WD40 Silicon. The replacement cable (sans adjuster nut) slid back through the bike with ease... Just thought you guys would like to know. |
