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Mark_weiss
Posted on Friday, March 07, 2008 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've experimented a bit with cold starts. I've gone through various amounts of warm up time, throttle management, etc, all trying to minimize the dreaded cold sputter & sometimes stall.

The last few days though, I've been starting up and riding away. The longest warmup time has been the 10 seconds that it takes for the garage door to close. This has been the best start-and-go procedure yet.

Although the bike is a bit rough running for the first two blocks, the sputtering issue seems to be gone.

Mark
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Johnboy777
Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2008 - 07:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I downloaded ECMspys and got the cables (thanks Packdog) then re-set my TPS and AFV and mine still coughs/hiccups/sneezes coming off of idle frequently - it drives me nuts.

Nuts I tell you ....GRRRRR!

.
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Chrisgrant
Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2008 - 08:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mine seems to have the same problem. Seems like just a few degrees outside makes the difference. Not really sure yet, only 115 miles on it and just got tags this week.

Last night after sitting at a traffic light, the bike damn near stalled when the light turned green. dunno? I hope that goes away as break-in continues. I'll just be happy go get time to ride for now though.
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Ulynut
Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2008 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mine has had the same cough since new and it is aggravating. Although I have learned to live with the situation by adjusting the way I use the throttle. I never "blip" the throttle. Just ease into it when starting off. The bike has enough torque to roll away without any throttle input. Even in 2nd gear. Try it out, maybe it will work for you too.
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Id073897
Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2008 - 10:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The last few days though, I've been starting up and riding away. The longest warmup time has been the 10 seconds that it takes for the garage door to close. This has been the best start-and-go procedure yet.

Looking at the duration of after-start enrichment, this seems the best procedure in my oppinion also. The engine gets lots of fuel the first half minute after starting it up (exact time depending on engine temperature), so it just seems meaningfull to me to heat up the engine as much as possible before the startup-enrichment finishes.

Regards,
Gunter

(Message edited by id073897 on March 08, 2008)
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2008 - 11:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"sensefull" I just can't seem to find that in my dictionary.
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Bigkuri
Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2008 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So the long warm up time is an urban myth?

I've an 2008 Uly, and currently go through a pair of plugs a month. The European 2008's seem to have dodgy fueling... At least mine anyway!

Did any of you have problems when warming it up (letting it idle) for a lot of time beforeband?
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Hoon
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

When I first got mine (with 4000 miles already on it)it started and ticked over fine without touching the throttle.

Now I've got a K&N filter and '07 style airbox cover (plus Remus exhaust and Powerizer-that's a different story for another thread!) it won't start and tick over unless I hold the throttle open slightly.
I guess it could be a temperature issue as it seemed to develop in Autumn(Fall) last year,I'll find out in a couple of months as it warms up.
(I'm getting another TPS reset done very soon FWIW)


I normally try and warm it up for 2-3 mins when I first start it,otherwise it often stalls as I pull away.
I'll have to give the 'start up and pull away immediately a try'


Bigkuri,you'll be an expert at plug changes by now (if you're doing it yourself),have you got any tips? I believe it can be done without rotating the engine?
(I understood that not warming the engine properly caused the plugs to foul,no?)
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Chrisgrant
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 11:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I find the plugs pretty easy to change, only time consuming. The plug wires are a big'ole PITA. I got some el cheepo long needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight and modded them for the wires. I heated them and shaped them around a 1/2" bolt and bent them to about 70 deg. or so. Them dipped them in liquid rubber stuff(also purchased at Harbor Freight). Should be a lot easier to install wires and boots next time.
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Id073897
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 12:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So the long warm up time is an urban myth?

In my oppionion it's the worst bullshit ever. It's fully counterproductive as the surplus of fuel accumulates at the cold surfaces rinsing the oil from the cylinder sleeve and increasing wear.

Each hp used for driving the bike is accompanied by two more "wasted" in form of heat. So what might use more power? Idling or driving? What uses more fuel? More fuel, more heat.

Regards,
Gunter
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Gtmg
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't know. I have a 2006 and find the bike runs much better from the start if I let it warm up a few minutes. Usually crank it and then go inside to put on gear. I don't have the sputtering etc on start up after that but do if I just get up ride it. Seems to take about 5 minutes. Just what works for me.
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Johnboy777
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 02:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well there ya go - I'd always let the engine warm up - about five minutes or so - then ride off.

My thinking was the 50W oil needs to warm up because its as thick as molasses, especially when cold.

But I think Gunter is correct.

.
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Etennuly
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I had a 2005 city-X with a race kit. That set up on my bike required start and go. Waiting for it to warm up would cost me a set of plugs. I hated that deal because it is so hard on the engine pumping cold oil through a cold engine while it is under load.

My '06 Uly will cough and sputter for the first three miles if it doesn't have at least three minutes of idle warm up time. The warm up will allow it to run smoothly without any problem from the start.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 03:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I start and then ride with no problems. I have had it hiccup a few times but 9 out of 10 no. I usually don't take over 3K for a few blocks though. Only fouled one set of plugs and I'm sure that was from blipping and haven't been a freaking blipper since. I damn near cross threaded that rear plug putting it back in after checking the timing with ECMSpy. Scared the shiite out of me. Really do hate how they've made that rear plug a pain in the ass when they could have certainly engineered that better. Why make spark plugs a bear to fyuck with?? Why make any maintenance item other than easy?
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Johnboy777
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 04:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I damn near cross threaded that rear plug putting it back in after checking the timing with ECMSpy

You're NOT supposed to remove any plugs to check timing per ECMspys or the Serv. Manual.

John
.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 07:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Johnboy777,
The only way to get that back wheel to turn easily, even in 5th, is to remove those plugs so you don't have to fight the compression. Speaking of which, have you verified your engine timing with ECMSpy? Mine was spot on.
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Johnboy777
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 07:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

EG, thanks for the tip - no, i have ECMspys but thought i would check it when i changed plugs (to iridium). its been very friggin' cold here.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Johnboy777,
It's not the easiest thing to accomplish by your lonesome. To check it I used the CPS 0/5 volt on the Diagnostics screen. It just goes either 0 or 5 and should change exactly at that timing mark you'll be looking at on the right side of the engine. Exactly per service manual. Good luck with it. Might be easier if someone else turns the back wheel while you watch for the timing mark.
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Bigkuri
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 08:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hoon - yes I've changed enough of them to get it quick now! : (
No engine rotating, just fiddly. It's not the spark plugs themselves (they are ok when using a normal bendy-knuckle on your sockets) but it is the rubber cap and lead that is the real pain. If the plugs have been in a while I think that it's easy to rip the wires out...
I'm getting an 2006 remus header & can, which I kindof think will solve my probs...
But saying that, I will start up and ride out for a few weeks to see if that makes a difference. What Gunter says does make sense.
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Treadmarks
Posted on Monday, March 10, 2008 - 07:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I used to have the chronic and unpredictable sneezing on off idle acceleration.

Timing is straight up. Air box mods, filters, oil, plugs, wires and exhaust did not help me permanently.

What did eliminate the coughs, sneezes and sputters was the Xopti EPROM mod. Not sure what all he changed but I am glad the character flaws of the Buell combustion process are gone. I start and ride on the way home, but usually give it about two minutes to warm up in the mornings.
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Hoon
Posted on Monday, March 10, 2008 - 07:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Cheers for the tips Bigkuri,you around for the Brooklands UKBEG meet?
Hope to meet you there.
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Bigkuri
Posted on Monday, March 10, 2008 - 07:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yep, looking forward to it : D
Going to box hill first at 0900.
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Johnboy777
Posted on Monday, March 10, 2008 - 08:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

but usually give it about two minutes to warm up in the mornings.

Treadmarks,

No fair, you're in FLA .. when i start my bike its in the 30's - 40's.... the oil's like taffy.
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Treadmarks
Posted on Monday, March 10, 2008 - 09:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

mmmmm taffy.

Yeah, it was down in the sixties here this past weekend. I thought I was gonna die!
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Johnboy777
Posted on Monday, March 10, 2008 - 09:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

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Mark_weiss
Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 - 01:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

After a week of start-and-ride, things are going well. Admittedly, here in the Phoenix metro area we seem to have run short of cold weather, morning temps are in the upper 40s F for the past few days. No problems at all. Sputtering is nonexistent, although the throttle response is sluggish for the first two to three blocks.

Not as seamless as my '87 K75, vastly better than my '82 R100rs with Del Orto carbs.

NO plug fouling.

Mark
'08 XB12X Orange, 2300 miles
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Conchop
Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 - 10:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hoon - What is a POWERIZER????
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