| Author | Message | ||
     Buell82 |
So the rear shock of my 97 Buell S3 has begun to form a puddle underneath it everytime I park it for a while, and I have noticed a changed in my ride. I am guessing that my rear shock seal has worn out. Does anyone know if these shocks are rebuildable? I have heard that a entire new shock is pretty pricy. Thanks, Mike | ||
| Ratbuell |
I have heard Aftershocks does rebuilds, I think they're in California? I gave up on both of mine, put a used Penske on my S1W and a new Works on my S2. Both are user-rebuildable so I figure they're the last shocks I'll have to buy for those bikes  | ||
| Brokeneck |
My 2000 S3 has a little over 10,000 miles on it -- how many miles can be expected out of the rear shock? | ||
| Buell82 |
Mine has about 17K on it. I would expect a shock to last much longer than that. But with a Buell who knows....lol | ||
| Firemanjim |
Stock showas are rebuildable and can be set-up for your vweight/riding style,as with cars they are only good for maybe 20-30k. I use Aftershocks in Palo Alto Ca. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I used to think that the dirt from being underneath the bike killed them but I read here that it is more the constant vibes from being connected directly to the front of the engine. My shock life: #1 less than 5000, replaced under warrantee. #2 lasted a good 50000, replaced with an ebay shock #3 still in process Remember that there are a couple of different lengths of shock out there. Measure yours before you make a purchase. (newer ones are shorter like 16.5") | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I was told the factory shocks are not worth rebuilding. Mine: Shock 1: 15k miles Shock 2: 100 miles in my possession (Bought used) Shock 3: Got frustrated... only a week away from March Badness 4, so I upgraded to a used WP Shock, it's been going strong for a year and 13k miles now. | ||
| Warlizard |
Factory shocks are crap to begin with, so why rebuild it? Go with an aftermarket alternative. (Message edited by warlizard on March 06, 2008) | ||
| Mikej |
Is this the place? http://www.aftershocks-suspension.com/ Looks like about $300 + shipping for a rebuild prices Less than other options. (Message edited by mikej on March 06, 2008) | ||
| Jos51700 |
I seem to see fewer failures with the 3rd gen, short Showa's. The 2nd gen with the long, gracefully contoured rear "arm" seem to fail often. The 3rd gen's are beefy all over, and my customers think they handle better. | ||
| Limitedx1 |
what years are the third gen? when can i expect a 2000 X1 shock to crap out? | ||
| Werewulf |
i was thinking about works, because they seem to be the cheepest...i know a lot of owners have high reviews for their customer service.. however, my dealings have been otherwise... i bought a set of shocks for my streetrod from them and they put me thru hell... they double dipped my credit card and refused to answer my phone calls... i could go on, but it was truly a negative experience and i would worry about sending my shocks back to them for a rebuild.. | ||
| Djkaplan |
My short reservoir shock didn't last any longer than the long shock did, less than 15,000 miles in both cases. If the stock shock can actually be improved with better damping and durability when it's rebuilt, it may be worth the $300. The durability is the key issue though. I was very fortunate to acquire a used Penske valved for my exact weight (thanks Mutant_racer!) for less than the price of a new stock shock. I suspect the Penske is at least 5 or 6 years old now, but it's still damping really well. The cool part is that Penske will rebuild and recharge it for only $120 + shipping. They told me I could actually rebuild it myself, it was only the nitrogen recharge that required special equipment. Looks like it might be a while before I get that done though. The Penske is quite a piece of work. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Works are also user-rebuildable except for the nitrogen tank. No need to send it back unless you break a hardpart, and even that can just be replaced during a seal rebuild. | ||
| Guell |
i have a works, i would either buy one of those or the penske, seems like a better choice in the long run. | ||
| Dfbutler |
If you look at it, you're taking the shock off no matter what. Getting it rebuilt, you're $3-400 out of pocket and you still have a mediocre rear shock. You can get a Works shock with the same adjustability as the stock (preload only), but better every other way for about 30% more than the rebuild and you end up with something better. Spend the extra and get the fully adjustable and you'd think you got a new bike. | ||
| Freeflyer |
My 2002 cyclone has preload and rebound, is this one also inferior and prone to failure? | ||
| Djkaplan |
Yes. It's terminal. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Had my upgraded/updated/recall replacement 16.5 shock rebuilt by Aftershocks last year. Soooo much better. Really. They will set up for riding style and weight, just bolt it back on and go, I think it was $275. I did have to soften my compression damping a quarter turn, that was pretty tough... ha-ha. Really it was so much cheaper than replacing it I thought I'd give it a try, longevity is still being tested but I think the money was very well spent. I took it to the track soon after getting it done, and it was great over the standard shock I had on it while I waited. At the previous track day i had not been able to get my knee down on my own bike (demos were just fine for this), but I actually had my knee down in the first session with the rebuilt shock on. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Mike,that is the place and Phil is a wizard and is at all the AFM races offering free support for any/all. He was even at the last ZoomZoom trackday and worked over my S-1. | ||
| Rick_a |
I rebuilt my Showa. Just replacing the seals is cheap...I Race Tech'd mine. I doubt they'll last much longer than before, but it was the most cost effective option for a better rear shock. | ||
| Oldog |
How did you get it apart? how hard was the spring removal. | ||
| Rick_a |
A lot of patience, some swearing, and an extra pair of hands helps at some times (I accidentally poked my wife in the face with a pick at one point which she did not appreciate). A press is needed to disassemble the canister. Just compress the spring enough to get a retaining ring out (brace it on the solid canister end and press on the rear eyelet) and the rest is pretty easy...like most any crappy OEM shock. A few dental picks makes removing snap rings easier. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Also if you go with a Works or Penske, you get the cool external spring...just the way a Buell is supposed to look, LOL! Still debating taking the spring out of my S2's works to powdercoat. Yes, the "works blue" is neat...but the bike is red with white frame, I suspect a white spring may look better? I need to find things to do while I'm recovering from knee surgery...stupid crap like this is gonna drive me crazy!  | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Rick, Where did you get the seals and how did you know how much oil to put in? How did you deal with the nitrogen tank? I've got a shock I'd like to mess with just for fun. Brad | ||
| Rick_a |
Brad, I got the seals through RaceTech (they ripped me off on shipping, btw). Figuring the oil level is simple...full. When the bladder goes back in the excess will just run out. I had a local shop recharge the shock for a small fee. | ||
| Cbig |
Which seems better? Rebuilt or Racetech ? Racetech is down the street. If they can rebuid... cool | ||
| Jstfrfun |
My 99X1 was good when I got it @15k miles,I'm at 19k now and it's piddling! Al @ American Sport Bike want's 650$ for the bottom line(no dampening adjust, compression or rebound)Works unit. If Aftershocks can give me back my Showa for another 19k, I'll be a happy bueller! |
