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Cataract2
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 07:26 pm: |
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Was wondering. The bast gasket on my rear cylinder is leaking a tad. Need to fix that. To do this will all I have to do is rotate the engine? Also, can someone list all the gaskets I'll need to replace to do this work? |
Spatten1
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 07:39 pm: |
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You can buy a "top end" gasket kit from Cometic. I think it is missing one or two things, but can't remember for sure. It does have all the big o-rings. I think it was missing a gasket for the bottom of the pushrod covers, but I am having trouble remembering. I seem to remember repairing gaskets there with a bunch of blue RTV. |
Cataract2
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 07:47 pm: |
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Well, I've done the RTV stuff already, it fixed it for a time, now it seems to be back and getting worse. So.... I figure might as well get in there and just do it right. Only, I'll help the gaskets with RTV with them. Though, can I just rotate the engine to do the rear cylinder or will I have to remove the frame? |
Hexangler
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 07:49 pm: |
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Rear lower rocker box gasket replacement requires rotating engine, I believe. Both my XB and my XL(sporty) have had SEVERAL replacements. XL is "easy" and I have done that myself several times. XB by warranty at dealer 3X in 12,000 mi. The third time they checked the rocker assembly and it was warped 0.006"+. So I was warrantied a replacement rocker assembly. I believe heat and possible torque error on assembly to be the problem. Also make sure everything is clean of oil and gunk as this can trap heat as well. Hex |
Cataract2
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 07:54 pm: |
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Any special tools needed? On post I can use the auto shop (should be interesting to see the looks on their faces when I come in with a motorcycle) and they have many tools. I have most of what's needed. |
Cataract2
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 07:55 pm: |
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Oh, the gasket is the base cylinder gasket. Rocker boxes are a ok right now. |
Hexangler
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 08:10 pm: |
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Sounds like your going to have to drop the motor and remove the frame. Also probably hone cylinder and new rings, but I'm not the guy to ask on this one. Get the factory service manual and parts manual before you start this project. Good Luck! Hex |
Cataract2
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 08:24 pm: |
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Already have the service manual. Just asking because I'm not certain on some things. Hoping for someone who's been there and done that already. |
Cataract2
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 11:07 pm: |
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You know, I was doing some thinking. If there's a leak at the starter could it appear to be a base gasket leak? I've been watching this for some time and it would appear to be at the base gasket, but after some reading I'm not sure. Any way to maybe test for this? |
Ccryder
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 11:15 pm: |
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What about a leak where the stator wires come out of the primary? One of my tubers had that problem and it looked like a rear cylinder base gasket. Much easier than dropping the engine. Neil S. |
Cataract2
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 11:27 pm: |
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Not quite certain on that location. I'll do some checking. I was reading something about the use of Mobil 1 gear lube in there causing that along with killing stators. (I use V-twin Mobil 1 now) So it could be that. I'll have to take it for a ride and see where it starts coming from. |
Cataract2
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 11:39 pm: |
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Well, since I'm all on this subject. Does anyone have a picture of where the stator wires come through on the case? I can't find it in my service manual nor any on the site. Would give me a good idea of if that can be the area to check. |
Cataract2
| Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 11:42 pm: |
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Oh, and another. I'm starting to wonder if my life would be easier to just RTV around that area and say screw it and keep riding. I've already RTVed some of it. Ah... this is driving me nuts. (Message edited by Cataract2 on March 02, 2008) |
Spatten1
| Posted on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 06:08 pm: |
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My rear base gasket leaked too. I was told it will progressively get worse then let go quickly. I don't think putting gasket sealer on the outside will help for very long. I was also told the cause is too much load before up to operating temp. I'm sure that happened on my bike, because on sighting laps at the track I had to go WFO to keep up with 600s at half throttle so I didn't get rear ended. It is tough to get the bike properly warmed up while waiting for you session, and I did a crappy job of it. |
Jos51700
| Posted on Tuesday, March 04, 2008 - 08:06 am: |
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#1 fix it right. It's not going to fix itself, and in the back of your mind, you know that. #2 Engine rotation is all you need. You can access all the required fasteners through the top, or from the sides when the engine is down. Pulling the Frame is WAY more work than you need to do. Pull the muffler, and the footpeg brackets, and the motor will drop as far as you need it to. #3 I dunno why guys insist on running gear oil in the transmission. That's way too heavy, and it's definitely the wrong oil, stator windings or not. HD SYN3 is Mobil One, and it's 20w50 synthetic motor oil and it's safe for chaincases AND transmissions. No more "synthetic ate my stator stories, unless you're running mystery oil from Planet Lucas or some such. #4 The stator wires exit the case up on top of the transmission housing. There's a "wall", where the starter bolts up. The wires exit through that wall, just rearward of the rear base gasket, but just before you reach the starter. If it's remotely in question, I would pull the primary cover (You should have already disconnected the battery for the top end job, but if not, FOR SURE, DISCONNECT IT NOW), and you can pull the stator wires back out through the case (You'll have to push from the RH side with a blunt screwdriver, to fit the plug through, most likely). Wash all the oil off the plug and the case hole with Brake Cleaner, slobber silicone sealer (If you use RTV, buy the "super" stuff) all over the plug and the case hole, and pull back through. |
Jos51700
| Posted on Tuesday, March 04, 2008 - 08:09 am: |
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And yes, thorough warm-up before heavy-handed throttling saves base gaskets AND head gaskets. It's all about thermal expansion vs. stud tension. If I ever build a motor for myself, I'm setting it up for base o-rings like the TwinCams. |
Cataract2
| Posted on Tuesday, March 04, 2008 - 09:47 am: |
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Jos, as for the gear oil. At the time I bought my bike (Nov 04) it was not known about the gear oil killing stators. I have seen the light now and use Mobil 1 V-Twin in the trans. Thanks for the info that. Yeah, think I'll go ahead and do it. Cometic (sp?) gaskets here I come. |
Jos51700
| Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 08:13 am: |
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I personally don't believe the business about gear oil killing stators, but also, like sex, I don't play around with unknown slippery things. I'm very untrusting that way. Factory stuff works! |
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