| Author | Message | ||
     Coop |
joed, I tried putting it on without loosening the header and it was tight, but after I loosened the header everything fell right into place, the only problem I have is that my legs get tired from pushing the bike down the street when I go to work at 5:00 am, theres a lot of elderly people in my neighborhood.  | ||
| Joed |
Coop, I've got a slight exhaust leak where the elbow meets the can. So I'm going to re-fit it tommorrow and I'll try some high temp silicon to seal each connection. Maybe i'll loosen the header to try to get a better fit. I don't find the exhaust to be too loud. It's definitely not as loud as the force. Sounds awesome at idle! As for your neighbors, no worries, most of the ederly are up and about around 4 a.m. preparing their oatmeal... | ||
| Aaron |
Here's a simple, cheap, no-fabrication thing you can try if your bike likes to eat exhaust parts:    Clamp part number S1120.G Tiebar part number 65947-96YA Basically, using these two inexpensive pieces, you retrofit the little collector mounting tab that '96-'98 models had onto the '99 and later header. | ||
| Coop |
joed, I also had the same slight exhaust leak where the elbow meets the can, I loosened the clamp, turned it a half turn then tightened it up again, then the leak was gone, I haven't heard the force yet, I wonder if the D&D full system is any louder than the slip-on. | ||
| Henrik |
Aaron; thanks much for that tip. I've been looking for a way to use the old style tie bar with a race header on the S2. Your idea looks like it could work. Henrik | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Aaron, Is that link compatible with the new exhaust mount? I looked at mine and I could not see where to mount the twisted tab? | ||
| Aaron |
Look again, it's not mounted to the muffler mount. It mounts exactly where it does on the '96-'98s, i.e. to the protruding stud portion of the shock reservoir clamp, on the shock mount. | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Oh, ok, thanks for clearing that up. I think I'll have to try this....... | ||
| Aaron |
Well, all I can say is it works for me ... by stabilizing the header there, the muffler bushings last indefinitely and the nuts on the header studs don't loosen and front muffler brackets quit breaking. Excessive movement in the system sure seems to be the root cause of this bike's problem, control the movement and the problems go away. But I'm not sure about the longevity of this particular iteration of this solution ... I don't have enough miles on it to know for sure. I'm concerned that the little 1/4" bolts (clamp studs) holding the tab at each end aren't strong enough and will eventually break. I'm sure a beefier arrangement could be made, for example I could clamp an "L" shaped piece of steel up next to the collector like the race header's front mount is done, and I could put an extra bolt on the engine side. But I'll wait and see if this holds up, since this is quick and cheap and easy to do. I don't like the way it's done on 96-98's, with that little slotted steel part welded onto the collector like they do. Those things break, which I suspect is why Buell dropped them in '99. I've even seen them rip a piece of the collector out. I think going around the collector with a clamp like this is a better approach. Look at how an FXR's head pipes are clamped sometime, THAT'S the right way to do it. Big wide clamp that goes all the way around the pipe and then is anchored to the engine with a 3/8" bolt. They have very few exhaust system troubles compared to Buells, despite having a very similar engine mounting system. | ||
| Buellsrule |
 Hi all, just wondering if anyone here has any experience with the Bubs bad dog exhaust? I have a '99 S3 and know that Bubs has improved on the design in recent years and is now using a double attachment point for each pipe. Just wanted to know how they hold up and how good of a product anyone feels they are for the Buell. Post here or e-mail me at s80drvr2@aol.com. Thanks. Frank | ||
| Dullorb |
On a recent trip on my S3T over the course of 450 miles I shook my exhaust to peices without noticing until it was a total wreck. As I am only a neophyte in motorcycle repair I don't know what the lack of a muffler can do to your engine over the course of I don't know how many miles. I am trying to put it back together but before I slap on a new header and muffler and fire it up I'd like to know how I might have damaged the engine and how to diagnose it instead of damaging it further by thinking it's OK. If anyone can give me some psuedo-expert advice, thanks. | ||
| Blake |
Dullorb, No worries other than ensuring your exhaust header mounting studs are still in one piece. Best bet would be to replace old studs with new ones. Your engine should be fine. | ||
| Cascott |
My '99 X-1 has had a Vance & Hines race exhaust for about 2 1/2 years. The front mount has been trouble-free. Shortly after it was installed, the rear mounting bracket (V&H part that came with the canister) between the bike and the canister broke. That was repaired with a simple weld. Recently I noticed a rattle and realized that the rear mount on the canister itsself was cracked. When I removed the muffler I saw that the entire top of the mount was completely broken out. My bro-in-law machined and welded on a new mount that is great, but what could have caused such a failure? Carol Scott '71 XLCH  '99 X-1  '02 X-1W  | ||
| Blake |
Stress concentrations, coupled with residual stresses from welding, and stresses from vibration, followed by fatigue crack growth and ultimately net section tensile failure. Very common failure mode. This time, have your repair weld shot peened. It will eliminate residual tensile stresses from the welding and help to protect against fatigue failure (crack propagation). | ||
| Awprior |
I have the D&D full system on my Cyclone. I haven't heard the slip on alone, but my system is pretty loud, but a good sounding loud. Gave a big boost in performance as well. Still need to work out a few kinks with exhaust leaks around a few of the clamps. Alex | ||
| Jblomberg |
Hopefully this will work this time. I was riding today and I suddenly noticed a totally different sound from the exhaust and loss of horsepower. When I got off, to my disgust, i saw two fairly large holes in the slip on part of my Vance & Hines. Does any one know what may have caused this, is there a recall on this muffler? And what can I do to repair it for the time being, so I don't have to buy a new slip on? Thanks.  | ||
| Aaron |
Do you have the little tiebar bracket between the collector and the shock mount? | ||
| Blake |
J, Looks to me like your front support has torn off the muffler adapter/inlet. Looks like a completely inadequate configuration. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Looks like you lost a little bit of your wing and tail...looks like a completely inadequate configuration......  sorry Blake, just bustin yer balls for that statement of the obvious..    (but actually, go to midair for the rest of the amazing shots... | ||
| Blake |
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| Mbsween |
aaron, congrats on the battle2win gig (if I'm way late on this, belated congrats). Well at least I'm assuming your the same aaron wilson that writes in Battle2win, if not please ignore.... Just wondering if you did more dyno runs with the E-series than the two shown (page 12 issue 15) ? Is it reasonable to assume a linear progression downward? ie 10 disc falls between 8 and 12? I'm running 16 now and its a little louder than I like. Thanks Matt | ||
| Aaron |
Hey Matt: thanks ... on that muffler, I only tried 4, 8, and 12 discs. Ran so bad on 4 that we chose not to even publish it, just confuses the dyno sheet to put too many pulls on it. Never tried 10, but yeah, I would expect something in between. It's such a great product in so many ways (looks weight, performance, sound), but man, that inlet pipe it came with was a POS that was ruining the whole thing IMO. The thing just didn't fit right and it was ugly and the front bracket looked really wimpy. One of the big reasons I like working with Reg so much is that he's not in anyone's pocket ... he's not the least little bit afraid to tell it the way he sees it. Most magazines won't be critical of any product for fear of losing ad revenue. Reg 's loyalty is to his readers. Reminds me of reading "Dirt Bike" growing up ... Rick Sieman was the same way. Read his book, "Monkey Butt", some time. Very revealing insight about the mag biz. Always feel free to let me know what you'd like to see in the mag in terms of tech, I'd really like to make sure the subjects I choose are of interest to more people than just me. | ||
| Mbsween |
Aaron, How can I pass up a read titled "monkey butt"? I agree with you on the product, it has a lot of great points, but the mounting instructions weren't useful and the front pipe is ugly. What bothered me most is the gyrations necessary to make it fit. I think WB should use Neil's verbage and my pics for mounting instructions. And maybe they'll fix the inlet based on your review ( I can dream can't I?)  As far as tech subjects keep showing us how to modify the beasts. I lean a little more to the "minor" mods (outside the motor) myself, just keep telling it like it is, you can do the mag no greater service. Congrats again Matt | ||
| Paisan |
any one know if i can get packing material for a wileyco pipe?...website? thanks | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Well,,, On the Colorado trip, I broke a rear band clamp on my new SuperTrapp IDS. No big deal I figured, it's still under warranty. Wrong!!! I called them yesterday to inquire about a new clamp. I had to pay "cost" ($50.00) as I didn't buy it from a dealer and have a reciept. I bought it from a 3rd party brand new, unused, still in the box. Didn't matter that the warranty is a year and the pipe's have been available for less than that. No dealer sale, no warranty. Kind of a crappy deal if you ask me. I like the ST, but not sure if I'd buy another one because of "company policy". Brad | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Brad, Do you have their "new" style clamp (black bracket with t-bolt clamps) or the old style one (primitive bent loops) Have you bought the new one yet? If not, and you can wait a few weeks for one, send me email at alighton@adelphia.net, I want to talk to you about something. Al | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Al, You've got mail... The bracket is the new style with the T bolts. I think it was a faulty clamp as it broke just in front of the spot welds. I may have had it positioned wrong and stressed it. The other clamp is fine. I know 3 or 4 other folks that have the same pipe with more miles than me with no problems. Brad | ||
| Blake |
Those clamps are about $5 from http://www/mcmaster.com. I just bought an assortment. Found some really strong beefier versions too. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
But the ones for the supertrapp are built into place. You can't replace just the strap, you have to replace the whole bracket. Clampco does the spot welding on the strap loops that retain the t-bolts AFTER insterting thru the bracket.  | ||
| Blake |
I wonder if Clampco would sell you the loose formed parts prior to spot welding. You might call and ask a salesman for a sample? Tell him you are thinking of using them for a new motorcycle exhaust system or something. Or drill out the spot welds, assemble to ST hanger, and reweld. |
